Builds Do I have your attention.... I call it VERA. (4 Viewers)

[2fpower]

Well, next year is going to be fun!

 

[2fpower]

Here is my order... with some extra fittings for @tornadoalleycruiser

 

[2fpower]

Still working on the 75 series project, but getting ready to do some primer so when ahead and sandblasted their rear axle that will go in this. Of course, if I’m going to do that, I want to go ahead and put armor on the rear diff. 3/8 plate.

 

[2fpower]

Primed

 

[2fpower]

For coats of John Deere blitz black

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Did you roll this on? Or spray? How is the shine and texture when dry?

 

[2fpower]

Did you roll this on? Or spray? How is the shine and texture when dry?

spray it on, no texture. I would call it a 50% gloss. Satin black.

 

[2fpower]

got a recommendation from @c2dfj45 to try out this primer, for body cabin area... so making a note so I don't forget.

 

[2fpower]

We use the Master Series on floors usually.....I've used it on a few frame parts too and or brackets that need a little love. I like it because it will stick to new metal, old metal, paint, rust, etc. It's very simple stuff. I have never used their metal prep solution. We've never had adhesion issues once it goes on.

We always brush or roll it. It's pretty potent smelling stuff....would not want to spray it outside of a booth.

The guy who owns the place that sells it is great to talk to....a wealth of info.

No idea if this is true or not but it must be because I read it on the internet ...this was what POR15 used to be back in the day. A heavy aluminum based sealant for rust. Apparently car people didn't care for the silver coating so POR15 altered their formula and turned it black...but the change in formula resulted in a product that wasn't quite the same. I think the guy at the company said that this is what they use on bridges....it permanently cuts off oxygen to the metal, stopping rust. Very effective stuff.

We did my floor in my LV with it....the guy told me to use fiberglass fibers in the material to help fill in pinholes or holes in the floor( this stuff is popular in the VW community). We did that on the LV and it filled up every pinhole. We filled up some stuff that was bigger than pinholes too. That floor is solid as solid can be with this, sound deadener and then bed liner.

Get a couple of quarts to play around with...well worth having it around. Just make sure you really store it tightly sealed. I either use a new metal can for it or the old saran wrap trick between the lid and the can. I try to use it out of cups, never out of the can either. Cures fast in humidity.

When we topcoat next weak, I'll give it a light scuff(you do not want to scuff down thru the aluminum) and then start the bedliner or sound deadener process.

I think the VW guys use it for the insides of bumpers or something.....maybe tail light housings. Can't recall where I read that.

 

[2fpower]

Painted hubs and axles

 

[2fpower]

@FZJ80 in KC was nice enough to come over last night and help me start putting the axle back together.

 

[2fpower]

I meant to explain... the spots were the cone washers go... I was thinking those should not be painted, so I put foam earplugs in there, and popped them out when the paint was dry. That way, the washers are able to bite into the steel.

 

[2fpower]

@c2dfj45 I remembered to buy the bearings, but forgot to put them in the freezer to assist on the install....

so while they were cooling down I got the section installed

 

[c2dfj45]

@c2dfj45 I remembered to buy the bearings, but forgot to put them in the freezer to assist on the install....View attachment 2238583

so while they were cooling down I got the section installedView attachment 2238584View attachment 2238585View attachment 2238586

I need to remember freezer on Monday when the bearings show up!

 

[2fpower]

I live in Kansas City which started its “state in place” order last night due to the coronavirus... in 10 years I don’t wanna look back on this evening as a negative but look into it as a positive so decided that it was time to set my other projects aside and work on vera. Now my job as an exemption from this order As we deal with regulatory deadlines; however, when I want to get away from the stress of being a small business owner and what crud we’re hearing on the media these days... i’ll have something to go out and make me feel better about something I can control....

To recap, I am too tall for a 45, but don't want to add a foot to the cab, so going to do a bunch of work to steal 3" in front footwell.

First cut. I don't want to remove too much material, so stopped cut here. will bend the body mount down flat, then add new metal there. It will be wider also, so cut out that little hill part....

cardboard cutout... hard to see, but basically making the floor flat for 3 1/2 inches more....

 

[2fpower]

First step was to flatten out the reinforcement angled piece.... I have to admit I finally learned something on Facebook from Brennan Metcalf.. @Mieser. I believe the technical term is a Bendy tool... Took three or four passes to get it straightened out slowly

 

[2fpower]

First rough layout.... after thinking about it I think I’m going to remove the full piece on top of the front mount, that way I can clean and paint the interior of that section, and be assured of a more straight floorboard.

still have about 1" from the heat shield around the cat.

 

[2fpower]

For those of you that have not had the pleasure of tearing apart a 40 or 45 series before, let me explain what it takes to take this front kick area out. See this is the first plate piece installed at the floor system. And now I’m wanting to take it out first..... danger.... So as I did not want to remove the rockers and floor, I instead pried up the area and ground down with an angle grinder all the welds to remove this piece.

 

[waiting for time]

For those of you that have not had the pleasure of tearing apart a 40 or 45 series before, let me explain what it takes to take this front kick area out. See this is the first plate piece installed at the floor system. And now I’m wanting to take it out first..... danger.... So as I did not want to remove the rockers and floor, I instead pried up the area and ground down with an angle grinder all the welds to remove this piece.

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Is the bottom of the A pillar still intact?

 

[2fpower]

Is the bottom of the A pillar still intact?

Yes, I wire brushed then got in there with a scaling tool, and the metal was strong enough for it, so I think we are in good shape. Actually overall, not too rusty at all.