Builds Dirty Koala Build - Cummins Common Rail + NV4500 + HF2AV Swap (6 Viewers)

[bigfj62]

Video video video.....chanting on and on.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Video video video.....chanting on and on.

As Soon as I finish the exhaust I'll get some video.

 

[Dirty Koala]

So I got the exhaust in, I was short one 45 degree elbow, so for now the exhaust terminates just past the rear axle. When I get another elbow, i'll dump out just behind the passenger tire.

I finished swapping the 37's on and them took the truck for a 30 minute cruise to my mates place and back. First off, this truck now pulls and pulls. I ran the truck up to about 75mph, 30 lbs of boost and EGT's sitting at about 950. Oil pressure loos good and engine temp is right in the middle of the guage.

I noticed as I was getting close to my friends place that the idle kept creeping up to 2000 rpm and to make it drop back down I would have to apply some brake....odd.

This continued all the way home and as I pulled into my driveway the idle at 2000 rpm, I turned the key off, but the motor was still running...oh sh!t. I put it in 3rd and held the brake to make it idle down and stall out.

Now the truck will fire up and the quickly shut off, or it will fire up and run up to 2000+ rpm and need to be stalled out to turn off.

I noticed the idle screw was loose and could be turned easily by hand, I have been messing with the idle screw trying to find the right spot, but I'm not convinced that is the issue.

I checked the fuel shutoff solenoid, the hold circuit is getting power when the key is on, I still need to check the pull circuit.

Now that I write this, if the fusible link on the fuel shutoff solenoid relay is burnt out, then the pull circuit won't be engaging and would explain why turning the key off does nothing.

 

[Dirty Koala]

At least she is out of the garage

 

[Wheelingnoob]

A friend had the same 2000rpm idle issue after a run. Turned out dustin's throttle adapter puts one cable too close to the exhaust and melted the inner core. It caused the cable to stick to the melted outer sheet.

Glad the firs t run went well, impressed you are running that much boost? What do you have done to the pump?

 

[Dirty Koala]

A friend had the same 2000rpm idle issue after a run. Turned out dustin's throttle adapter puts one cable too close to the exhaust and melted the inner core. It caused the cable to stick to the melted outer sheet.

Glad the firs t run went well, impressed you are running that much boost? What do you have done to the pump?

That is an interesting thought, I'll go check the cable to see if it looks melted.

The fuel plate was slid all the way open and a 4k governor spring was installed, the timing was bumped to 16 or 17 degrees and I am running larger injectors and Mahle 286210 pistons.

 

[Dirty Koala]

The throttle cables are all good, no melting. The fusible link is good and power for the pull circuit is making it to the relay. Running out of places to look. I guess I'll keep messing with the idle screw.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

That is an interesting thought, I'll go check the cable to see if it looks melted.

The fuel plate was slid all the way open and a 4k governor spring was installed, the timing was bumped to 16 or 17 degrees and I am running larger injectors and Mahle 286210 pistons.

Ah ok I just put my fuel plate back in the same stock location and timing is still set to the stock spec of 12.5deg.

Good luck tracking down the issue, the idle screw on mine is backed all the way down for reference to get 900rpm.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Also make sure that the throttle rod that goes from the cam that the cable connects too to the pump fuel cam is tight, if it's loose it will change all sorts of things.

Short of that you need to look at the GSK if the nut was not installed back to speak it will affect idle speed.

 

[Dirty Koala]

I think that rod is loose, I can rotate it by hand. I'll see if I can tighten that up.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

I think that rod is loose, I can rotate it by hand. I'll see if I can tighten that up.

It's suppose to rotate on the joints just not on the threaded part.

 

[Dirty Koala]

I have narrowed the problem down to the pull circuit on the fuel shutoff solenoid.

When I energize the hold circuit by putting the key to ON, I can manually lift the plunger, I can then fire up the truck and everything runs great.

It could be any of the following three scenarios

1. The relay is blown
2. I don't have continuity in the line running from the starter solenoid to the relay.
3. The shutoff solenoid has crapped out.

These are much better problems to have than a pump issue.

I took a couple quick videos of the truck running and showing the guages all operating correctly.

Video of cruiser/motor idling

Video of guages when idling

Since I have deleted ABS and LSPV, I didn't want to have an annoying ABS light constantly on. Most folks pull the light bulb out, I just pulled the whole computer out. Seems to work well and no light came on during my drive. Can anyone think of any issue with yanking the computer?

 

[Dirty Koala]

I pulled the relay out and bench tested it, no issue there. I then tested the shutoff solenoid directly and it pulls the plunger up, no issues there. I then tested the voltage on the relay switch wire coming from the starter solonoid. When the engine is cranking I am only seeing about 9.5V at the relay. I assume that this is not enough voltage to close the relay.

I am not sure why I would only be seeing 9.5V off of the starter solenoid, perhaps a bad connection on the ring terminal?

 

[Wheelingnoob]

I pulled the relay out and bench tested it, no issue there. I then tested the shutoff solenoid directly and it pulls the plunger up, no issues there. I then tested the voltage on the relay switch wire coming from the starter solonoid. When the engine is cranking I am only seeing about 9.5V at the relay. I assume that this is not enough voltage to close the relay.

I am not sure why I would only be seeing 9.5V off of the starter solenoid, perhaps a bad connection on the ring terminal?

Very common on the toyota wiring to get low voltage at the solinoid. I wired in a relay for both the stater solinoid and that relay also triggers the relay for the fuel solinoid. No issues at all with it.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Very common on the toyota wiring to get low voltage at the solinoid. I wired in a relay for both the stater solinoid and that relay also triggers the relay for the fuel solinoid. No issues at all with it.

What wire are you using as the trigger wire on the starter relay? Also what size relay are you running for the starter? I believe the shutoff relay is 70amps.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

What wire are you using as the trigger wire on the starter relay? Also what size relay are you running for the starter? I believe the shutoff relay is 70amps.

I'm using the factory solinoid trigger for the signal power to the relays. I'm using standard 40A relays no issues. The pull on the fuel solinoid should only be active for 2-3 sec at a time when cranking then the engine starts and its relying on the 12v hold to keep it open. Only time you may have an issue is if your cranking it for a long perid of time.

 

[Dirty Koala]

I'm using the factory solinoid trigger for the signal power to the relays. I'm using standard 40A relays no issues. The pull on the fuel solinoid should only be active for 2-3 sec at a time when cranking then the engine starts and its relying on the 12v hold to keep it open. Only time you may have an issue is if your cranking it for a long perid of time.

I am going to do the same and wire in a relay to power up the starter solenoid and the pull circuit on the shutoff relay. That voltage drop on the starter solenoid has to be be caused by the large current draw required to turn the Cummins over. I assume the 1FZ has less current draw at the starter solonoid.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

I am going to do the same and wire in a relay to power up the starter solenoid and the pull circuit on the shutoff relay. That voltage drop on the starter solenoid has to be be caused by the large current draw required to turn the Cummins over. I assume the 1FZ has less current draw at the starter solonoid.

My Isuzu was the same, had the dreaded click click of the starter with out the relay.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Weird part is, the starter spins great, it's just the jumper wire from the starter solenoid to the fuel shutoff relay that doesn't want to work with the lower voltage.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Weird part is, the starter spins great, it's just the jumper wire from the starter solenoid to the fuel shutoff relay that doesn't want to work with the lower voltage.

Well if you have the trigger going to the starter then to the fuel solinoid the starter maybe pulling enough power that it's not triggering the pull on the fuel solinoid.

A relay will fix your issue I'm sure. It's a very simple system.