The key is remembering to close the coop door. We get lazy and only close the pen/run door since we let our chickens free range all day. The bobcat climbed over the fence and went into the coop and picked off chickens off their roost.
Build Dirty Koala Build - Cummins Common Rail + NV4500 + HF2AV Swap
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- Thread starter
- #502
Same thing happened to my friend, he forgot to close the coop a few times.
Sounds like you guys need one of them fancy automatic coop doors
- Thread starter
- #504
Yeah, A big spring.
- Thread starter
- #505
This afternoon I got the trans tunnel all sealed up, shortened the xfer case shift linkage and put my freshly painted OEM manual console in place. I was going for a clean OEM look and am pretty pleased with the result.
Morgan I can almost hear the sweet tap tap tap of that diesel engine from here!
- Thread starter
- #507
I wouldn't be surprised, without the exhaust on the Takada Takada Takada is rather loud.
- Thread starter
- #508
Today I put my front DC driveshaft in, it fit perfectly. I then realised that my rear driveshaft needs to be shortened about .5 - .75", I will take it to my local driveline shop this week to be shortened and balanced.
I also put the NV3500 slave cylinder in the trans, put the stainless -3AN flex line on and then made a hard line to run from the toyota master cylinder to the flex line.
I bled the master and then bled the slave. I intentionally bought a slave that has a bleed screw (most don't), it was a simple process.
After the slave was bled it became apparent that the clutch wasn't engaging until halfway through the stroke, and the 2 Toyota assist springs on the pedal assembly were too strong, preventing the clutch from returning up fully when released.
To slove the engagement issue, I took the pushrod pin and adjuster out, cut the two welds on the adjuster, welded a thick nut between to two halves of the adjuster and put it back together.
To solve the spring issue, I simply removed one of the 2 springs.
I ran through all gears with the motor running without any grinding, so it appears I am getting full clutch engagement.
I also got the hood back on the cruiser, no clearance issues...nearly there.
I also put the NV3500 slave cylinder in the trans, put the stainless -3AN flex line on and then made a hard line to run from the toyota master cylinder to the flex line.
I bled the master and then bled the slave. I intentionally bought a slave that has a bleed screw (most don't), it was a simple process.
After the slave was bled it became apparent that the clutch wasn't engaging until halfway through the stroke, and the 2 Toyota assist springs on the pedal assembly were too strong, preventing the clutch from returning up fully when released.
To slove the engagement issue, I took the pushrod pin and adjuster out, cut the two welds on the adjuster, welded a thick nut between to two halves of the adjuster and put it back together.
To solve the spring issue, I simply removed one of the 2 springs.
I ran through all gears with the motor running without any grinding, so it appears I am getting full clutch engagement.
I also got the hood back on the cruiser, no clearance issues...nearly there.
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- Thread starter
- #509
The list of things I still need to do, seems longer when I write it all down.
Build, paint and wrap down pipe- Make exhaust front pipe
- make exhaust rear pipe
Re-bleed slave cylinderFinish LSPV Delete (rear line union and bleed)Put front bumper back on.Get rear driveshaft shortened and installed.Modify Acura guage pod and install pyro and boost guages.Mount ARB compressor.Re-route wiring for fridge, amp, voltmeter, airlockers switches & battery Isolator control.- Put glove box back in.
- Vacuum and recharge A/C.
- Mount the other 3 new tires.
Mount 91-92 washer bottle on drivers fender and extend wiring.
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- Thread starter
- #510
Got a few things knocked off the list today.
- Finished the LSPV delete (still need to bleed)
- I installed the new rear driveshaft that I had made locally.
- I made my downpipe, painted it and wrapped it.
- I spent the bulk of the day pulling wires, but I now have my boost and Pyro gauges operational.
- Thread starter
- #511
I took advantage of having friends and family over today, had my mate help me bleed the brakes...I got a good coating of brake fluid in the face...always fun.
I also found an issue with my clutch hydro, it's not engaging the clutch fully, I am going to swap the slave push rod with the longer pushrod from the NV4500 slave and see how it goes.
I also put the bumper back on and and reinstalled the slee headlight/auxiliary harness.
I then routed the two 4ga cables through the firewall to my distribution block. Still need to route the ARB compressor wiring, battery isolator control wires, and get the exhaust finished...tic toc.
I also found an issue with my clutch hydro, it's not engaging the clutch fully, I am going to swap the slave push rod with the longer pushrod from the NV4500 slave and see how it goes.
I also put the bumper back on and and reinstalled the slee headlight/auxiliary harness.
I then routed the two 4ga cables through the firewall to my distribution block. Still need to route the ARB compressor wiring, battery isolator control wires, and get the exhaust finished...tic toc.
- Thread starter
- #512
Got a bunch done today, but still have more to do.
- Since I have dual batteries and there isn't room for the windshield washer bottle behind the new air clearer, I installed a 1992 windshield washer bottle on/in the driver's inner fender. I had to relocate the fuse block to make room.
- Since my clutch master is where my ARB compressor used to be, I had to find a new place to mount it. I fabbed up a bracket that bolts to the inner driver fender and the driver wheelwell, right behind the washer bottle. Gave it a coat of paint and bolted it into place.
- I installed the ARB wiring harness and put the switches back in place.
- Ran the 4ga cables from battery back to my distribution blocks in the rear. I now have power to the fridge, Puma compressor and amplifier.
- Ran the battery isolator control wires and voltmeter wires out the passenger side wiring grommet.
- Installed my completed down pipe.
- Removed the clutch slave cylinder and replaced the push rod with a pushrod from an NV4500 slave cylinder (it's about .5" longer. I need to bleed and see if that solved the issue.
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- Thread starter
- #513
I bled the clutch master and slave cylinder but still wasn't getting enough engagement. I was able to adjust the master push rod out a bit further and now the pedal feels perfect and I have full engagement.
I took the truck for a short drive this evening, 1 foot in reverse and another foot forward in 1st.
All my focus is now shifting to finishing up the exhaust and then recharging the A/C.
I took the truck for a short drive this evening, 1 foot in reverse and another foot forward in 1st.
All my focus is now shifting to finishing up the exhaust and then recharging the A/C.
Going to be Ready for coal mine?!
Hey, let me know how you find the sound to be coming from the transmission / t-case. I've got the same OEM console / boot cover you do and am looking to quiet mine down at bit. I've got plenty of dynamat cut around the top of the transmission tunnel, but what I'm thinking is to try to get a (factory?) Dodge rubber shift boot cover to go under the Toyota leather boot. Don't know how that would work, but it struck me as possible... maybe.
I took a ride in the back seat of my Cruiser last week and was amazed at how quiet it was... but the front seat is a different deal. There's a bit more sound than I'd like coming up through the center console. And yes, I know that's picky.
And dude... your truck looks SO good! Great work and keep it up!
- Thread starter
- #516
Yes it'll be ready. Just need to finish up the exhaust and swap the wheels over.
Did you use any rubber boots under the Toyota leather boot? I used the Toyota Auto xfer case shifter boot as the shifter boot for the transmission and then got a new OEM manual xfer case rubber boot for the xfer case. I screwed them down into the new sheet metal. If you are running without those rubber boots I would expect a bunch of noise to transmit through.
Truck is so close to being done, all the extra little bits that I had to do really added time (windshield washer bottle, tons of aux wiring etc, air compressor mount etc.)
Ill get this one done, just in time to go pickup the BJ42
YUP, there's my answer. No rubber boots at all under the leather in mine. *Commences ordering OEM parts*
Thanks for the input!
I used the rubber shifter boot from a 91-95 4runner. Then the OEM leather boot over top and sound mad around the boots. I get very little sound through the shifter.
- Thread starter
- #519
I made the front exhaust pipe that connects to the down pipe with a V-band clamp. I fitted the muffler and then fired the beast up to see how she sounds...WOW OH WOW, music to my ears! I will make the tailpipe and sort out the exhaust hangers today.
I realised I had a few other things to take care of, the list always seems to grow faster than it shrinks.
The Toyota engineers went against the grain when designing how their instrument light dimmer circuit works, resistance is applied to the ground side to reduce light output, whereas most other manufactures reduce voltage on the hot side to achieve the same. As a result, the majority of aftermarket guages and switches operate their dimming function via reduced voltage.
This hold true for my two Isspro boost and pyro gauges, and also for my ARB airlocker switches. Since I want to be able to control the brightness of all of these I knew I needed to add a hot side potentiometer.
I wired an Isspro potentiometer in and mounted it under the dash out of the way. This controls both the guages and airlocker switches.
I then loomed and hooked up all the control wires for my Hellroaring battery isolator, this allows me to manually connect, disconnect or leave on auto from within the cab. I then mounted the throttle linkage assembly (it covers the passenger side wiring grommet)
Not essential to get back on the road, but only took a few mins to install. I mounted up a wit's end scout lockbox @NLXTACY and @bhicks drop in cup holder. I still have a few other accessories from both these fellas on the shelf waiting to get installed.
Nothing left to do under the hood...just the tailpipe.
I realised I had a few other things to take care of, the list always seems to grow faster than it shrinks.
The Toyota engineers went against the grain when designing how their instrument light dimmer circuit works, resistance is applied to the ground side to reduce light output, whereas most other manufactures reduce voltage on the hot side to achieve the same. As a result, the majority of aftermarket guages and switches operate their dimming function via reduced voltage.
This hold true for my two Isspro boost and pyro gauges, and also for my ARB airlocker switches. Since I want to be able to control the brightness of all of these I knew I needed to add a hot side potentiometer.
I wired an Isspro potentiometer in and mounted it under the dash out of the way. This controls both the guages and airlocker switches.
I then loomed and hooked up all the control wires for my Hellroaring battery isolator, this allows me to manually connect, disconnect or leave on auto from within the cab. I then mounted the throttle linkage assembly (it covers the passenger side wiring grommet)
Not essential to get back on the road, but only took a few mins to install. I mounted up a wit's end scout lockbox @NLXTACY and @bhicks drop in cup holder. I still have a few other accessories from both these fellas on the shelf waiting to get installed.
Nothing left to do under the hood...just the tailpipe.
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