- Thread starter
- #541
Yes I agree it should take care of my issue, thanks for all your input.
I am beginning to think I have more time in this swap spent on electrical than anything else.
Build Dirty Koala Build - Cummins Common Rail + NV4500 + HF2AV Swap
- Thread starter Dirty Koala
- Start date
Member Build Threads
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I am beginning to think I have more time in this swap spent on electrical than anything else.
- Thread starter
- #543
Thank you Onur, it's been a slow and steady build, but I did it the right way I think.
I just picked up a big Ford 7.3 starter solonoid/relay. I am going to wire that in to feed both the starter solonoid and fuel shutoff trigger.
- Thread starter
- #544
I installed the big Ford solonoid on the inside drivers fender using one of the available factory bolt holes. The base plate of the solenoid is designed to ground through the body, but for good measure I also ran a 4ga cable directly to the negative terminal on the battery.
To make sure there is absolutely no issue with voltage drop, I ran a 2ga cable from the B terminal to the positive battery terminal.
I then extended the 10ga starter wire coming off the toyota harness and ran to the switch terminal on the Ford solenoid.
Lastly I ran 10ga wires from the M terminal to both the starter solenoid and the trigger wire on the fuel shutoff relay.
I then turned my attention to the sticking throttle, I first adjusted the idle stop so that the motor idles at 850rpm, and secured the lock nut down good and tight.
I also had a theory that the routing of the toyota throttle cable had too harsh of a bend in it, which may have contributing to the sticking throttle. I re-routed the cable so that it now has a nice sweeping line. In the pic below you can see it crossing over the 1st & 2nd valve covers. Previously it was tucked under the intake piping.
I took the truck for a drive and everything is now operating nicely. The motor pulls and pulls, it idles down when off the throttle and is a blast to drive. I noticed a few gawkers at the traffic light, I think this is going to attract some attention.
Now onto the A/C, I get to figure out how to use my vacuum pump and guages that I have had in the tool box for over a year waiting for this day to arrive. Yes I could take it to a shop...but I want to do it myself, just like I made the exhaust and rebuilt the trans.
To make sure there is absolutely no issue with voltage drop, I ran a 2ga cable from the B terminal to the positive battery terminal.
I then extended the 10ga starter wire coming off the toyota harness and ran to the switch terminal on the Ford solenoid.
Lastly I ran 10ga wires from the M terminal to both the starter solenoid and the trigger wire on the fuel shutoff relay.
I then turned my attention to the sticking throttle, I first adjusted the idle stop so that the motor idles at 850rpm, and secured the lock nut down good and tight.
I also had a theory that the routing of the toyota throttle cable had too harsh of a bend in it, which may have contributing to the sticking throttle. I re-routed the cable so that it now has a nice sweeping line. In the pic below you can see it crossing over the 1st & 2nd valve covers. Previously it was tucked under the intake piping.
I took the truck for a drive and everything is now operating nicely. The motor pulls and pulls, it idles down when off the throttle and is a blast to drive. I noticed a few gawkers at the traffic light, I think this is going to attract some attention.
Now onto the A/C, I get to figure out how to use my vacuum pump and guages that I have had in the tool box for over a year waiting for this day to arrive. Yes I could take it to a shop...but I want to do it myself, just like I made the exhaust and rebuilt the trans.
- Thread starter
- #545
And the electrical drama continues.
Tonight the same thing happened again, not enough voltage to close the fuel shutoff solenoid. When cranking I am seeing 10.25V on the M terminal of the Ford relay. When I remove the wire going to the starter, and turn the key, I see the full 12.6v on the M terminal. This starter motor pulls some serious current, and I think the ford solenoid is maxed out. I think I need to run two separate relays, one for the starter and one to power up the trigger wire for the fuel shutoff relay.
It's seems silly to need to have a relay to power up another relay, but since the toyota harness is only providing about 9.5v, and the fuel shutoff relay wants about 12 to close...no other choice. I'll pick up another ford relay tomorrow and see if that solves the issue.
This evening I got my custom Gamaviti rack mounted, I wanted to be able to run the basket down but yet still use Tim's 30/60 low profile mounts. He cut out sections of the basket that would normally interfere with the 30/60 mounts, I am very happy with the result. Best part, I can still get in my 7' high garage with the rack and 37's...I guess I don't need to open up the header and get a taller door.
Before my electrical headaches returned, I was busy with the A/C. I pulled a 30mg vacuum for about 2 hours and then let it sit for another 1.5 hrs, it held. I then started the recharge process, but the compressor clutch never engaged. Only thing I can think is that I reversed the two wires feeding the compressor. Anyone happen to know which wire is ground vs hot on the compressor?
Tonight the same thing happened again, not enough voltage to close the fuel shutoff solenoid. When cranking I am seeing 10.25V on the M terminal of the Ford relay. When I remove the wire going to the starter, and turn the key, I see the full 12.6v on the M terminal. This starter motor pulls some serious current, and I think the ford solenoid is maxed out. I think I need to run two separate relays, one for the starter and one to power up the trigger wire for the fuel shutoff relay.
It's seems silly to need to have a relay to power up another relay, but since the toyota harness is only providing about 9.5v, and the fuel shutoff relay wants about 12 to close...no other choice. I'll pick up another ford relay tomorrow and see if that solves the issue.
This evening I got my custom Gamaviti rack mounted, I wanted to be able to run the basket down but yet still use Tim's 30/60 low profile mounts. He cut out sections of the basket that would normally interfere with the 30/60 mounts, I am very happy with the result. Best part, I can still get in my 7' high garage with the rack and 37's...I guess I don't need to open up the header and get a taller door.
Before my electrical headaches returned, I was busy with the A/C. I pulled a 30mg vacuum for about 2 hours and then let it sit for another 1.5 hrs, it held. I then started the recharge process, but the compressor clutch never engaged. Only thing I can think is that I reversed the two wires feeding the compressor. Anyone happen to know which wire is ground vs hot on the compressor?
- Thread starter
- #546
I remembered that I had pulled the AC amplifier from behind the glove box when I pulled the ECU out. I just spent 2 hrs trying to find where I placed it, No luck. I did find one on ebay from a 97 cruiser for $19, unfortunately I won't have it for about a week. I assume without that amplifier, the compressor clutch would not engage.
- Thread starter
- #547
I picked up and wired in a 2nd Ford solenoid and the truck is starting up fine now...fingers crossed it stays that way. The primary issue is that the Toyota harness is providing such low voltage 9.5v that it doesn't take much current draw to overwhelm it.
I have the Toyota start wire activating the 1st Ford solenoid, which then powers up the starter and a jumper wire to activate the 2nd ford solenoid. The 2nd solenoid, then powers up the trigger wire on the fuel shutoff pull circuit.
I have the Toyota start wire activating the 1st Ford solenoid, which then powers up the starter and a jumper wire to activate the 2nd ford solenoid. The 2nd solenoid, then powers up the trigger wire on the fuel shutoff pull circuit.
- Thread starter
- #548
Got a bunch of things wrapped up today.
- Re-routed the wiring for my HAM radio
- Hooked up the wiring for my In-dash voltmeter
- Installed speakers in the rear doors
- Put the glove box back in
- Installed a ram mount for my tablet
- Packed the drawers full of tools (hopefully I won't need them)
Whew that's a short shake down! Good luck on the trip, hopefully everything goes smoothly.
Are you planing to re torque your head studs?
Are you planing to re torque your head studs?
Still bringing the family without working AC? You're a brave man!
- Thread starter
- #551
Yes it was shorter than I would have liked, but it is what it is. Yes I plan to re-torque the head studs.
- Thread starter
- #552
Yep, we have a cabin, hopefully it has A/C. If Shannon doesn'twant to wheel, she doesn't need to come each day.
So annoying that I misplaced the AC amplifier, I would have ice cold A/C right now if I knew where it was.
Should be fine, just check you fluid levels and for leaks every stop and at night check over all the nuts and bolts to make sure nothing i's working loose. I found a few on mine. Towing with the fresh motor is a good idea, gets good load on it for fast break in. Just make sure your not loaded at one rpm point for long periods it's best to fluctuate rpm.
Have a great trip and enjoy the effortlessnes of the cummins to get up hills.
- Thread starter
- #554
Thanks, wish me luck. I am going to give all the nuts and bolts a once over before I leave tomorrow and then again when I arrive, it's about a 2.5hr drive. I'll be sure to fluctuate the RPM, accelerating rapidly up hill still feels so odd.
- Thread starter
- #555
And the drama continued today. I got the fridge loaded, truck packed, trailer hooked up, wife, toddler and 4 dogs onboard, and we're off. Make a pit stop in town at the grocery store for some last minute items. When we go to leave the same electrical issue again...getting frustrated by now.
All my diagnostics are telling me that I cannot utilize either the toyota ignition wire or the starter solenoid output to trigger the fuel shutoff relay...just not enough juice on either when cranking the starter over.
I also noticed that I now have a blown fuel shutoff solenoid, it won't pull up even when wired directly to battery.
I manually pulled the plunger up, fire up the motor and headed back home to put a new plan into action.
I had a spare shutoff solenoid sitting in the garage from another 6BT that I have. I bench tested it...works well. I pulled out the blown shutoff and put the spare on.
I knew I needed to completely separate the two circuits to get around the low voltage issue, without time to figure out if there are any other factory circuits that only get power when cranking, I decided to go with the helicopter ignition setup.
The two ford solenoids are now two distinct circuits, the one for the fuel shutoff is now getting triggered by a momentary switch that I placed in the blank where the magic dial would be on an OEM locker equipped 80.
This setup works well and the truck fires right up. I turn the key to ON, hit the momentary switch which pulls the shutoff plunger up, then turn the key to start to crank the starter. This makes for a nice anti-theft device.
By the time I was all done, it was too late to drive 1.5hrs to drop 2 dogs at the in-laws and then drive 2.5 hrs to Coal Mine Cruiser Classic. Instead I drove 2hrs round trip to drop off the pups, and we will head out to CMCC tomorrow AM.
I put about 80 miles on the truck tonight, it hauls arse. Coming home tonight, pulling up a long grade that I usually can't get above 50, I was able to stomp on it and continuously accelerate up the hill. I let off the throttle when I hit 85 on the speedo (which I assume is, closer to 95 with the 37's.) I noted the guages as I hit 85 (95) going up hill. 26lbs of boost and 1050 degrees EGT's. I am pretty happy with that.
The Honda Accord who was trying desperately to pass me on that hill was unsuccessful in his attempt...such a strange feeling.
All my diagnostics are telling me that I cannot utilize either the toyota ignition wire or the starter solenoid output to trigger the fuel shutoff relay...just not enough juice on either when cranking the starter over.
I also noticed that I now have a blown fuel shutoff solenoid, it won't pull up even when wired directly to battery.
I manually pulled the plunger up, fire up the motor and headed back home to put a new plan into action.
I had a spare shutoff solenoid sitting in the garage from another 6BT that I have. I bench tested it...works well. I pulled out the blown shutoff and put the spare on.
I knew I needed to completely separate the two circuits to get around the low voltage issue, without time to figure out if there are any other factory circuits that only get power when cranking, I decided to go with the helicopter ignition setup.
The two ford solenoids are now two distinct circuits, the one for the fuel shutoff is now getting triggered by a momentary switch that I placed in the blank where the magic dial would be on an OEM locker equipped 80.
This setup works well and the truck fires right up. I turn the key to ON, hit the momentary switch which pulls the shutoff plunger up, then turn the key to start to crank the starter. This makes for a nice anti-theft device.
By the time I was all done, it was too late to drive 1.5hrs to drop 2 dogs at the in-laws and then drive 2.5 hrs to Coal Mine Cruiser Classic. Instead I drove 2hrs round trip to drop off the pups, and we will head out to CMCC tomorrow AM.
I put about 80 miles on the truck tonight, it hauls arse. Coming home tonight, pulling up a long grade that I usually can't get above 50, I was able to stomp on it and continuously accelerate up the hill. I let off the throttle when I hit 85 on the speedo (which I assume is, closer to 95 with the 37's.) I noted the guages as I hit 85 (95) going up hill. 26lbs of boost and 1050 degrees EGT's. I am pretty happy with that.
The Honda Accord who was trying desperately to pass me on that hill was unsuccessful in his attempt...such a strange feeling.
Damn! It almost sounds like the fuel solinoid was defective or the "pull" wire was staying activated and burned it up. I mistakenly left my pull wire energised when testing and it gets damn hot fast!
P.'s. That interior looks amazing.
It's always something.. Rig looks awesome!
- Thread starter
- #559
Yes. It was really hot when I pulled it out. I am going to get a new shutoff solenoid and keep it in the truck as a backup. I'll run the spare for now.
Thank you, I am happy with how the interior came out.
Yes it is, I am hoping that I get a reprieve for the next few days now. Thank you.
I'm not diesel guy but I know the start circuit and various other components (shutdown) likely draw amp loads never envisioned with the OEM wring...etc. Probably save some heartburn in totally isolating those and having them on their own circuits with appropriate gauge wire...etc, which I think you are getting there. Same with the "pre-heater". I think some people have resorted to a manual control for shutdown. Replicate the setup from the donor vehicle which I assume is a dodge, where possible or feasible (I did not go back and read through the entire thread).
Looks like a great setup......I'm sure a stock 6bt puts out plenty of power vs. the OEM setup, so much in torque that I suspect other parts will be a suspect at some point due to the torque output.
Looks like a great setup......I'm sure a stock 6bt puts out plenty of power vs. the OEM setup, so much in torque that I suspect other parts will be a suspect at some point due to the torque output.