Did I make a bad decision on my purchase? Not even sure I should post this here? (1 Viewer)

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Depends on price and who's doing the work.

Buying a 25 year old vehicle and paying someone to work on it is NEVER a good choice. It will cost magnitudes more than just buying something new.

If you're working on it yourself, it depends on how much time and $$$ you want to spend on it. From what I've read and experience with my truck, the CDL not engaging really isn't an expensive fix. It's just time consuming.

There's thereads/how too's on all of this.
1: do you hear the relay down by your feet when you shift to 4l
2: get under and check all of the plugs and switches on the transfer case.
3: check CDL motor with 9v battery
3a: no motor action, new actuator
3b: motor action, take everything apart and lube.


I paid $1k for my unlocked 96 with 185k. Spent most of 3 days removing the remote start/alarm and fixing the wiring issues it had. Spent another fixing the blown brake line. A couple nights rebuilding the axles.
I have about ~$3k into it now and wouldn't hesitate to take it on a all day drive. Most of that was spent on wheels/tires and exhaust.
 
You bought a truck with bad tires? You are screwed, horrible decision:flipoff2: Now stop being a little :princess: you own it, so it’s yours now and don’t worry about s*** that’s already done, move forward.:meh:
 
These trucks are more of a "lifestyle" type vehicle...impoverished lifestyle :frown:
 
You want to start overlanding in a hammered LC with 242K? If your budget will support get everything reliable enough to overland without issue I would take the money and start with something in better condition.

You said you bought it, what did you pay?
I paid $4500
 
I paid $4500 for it. It sounds like I am good on the price. I will post some pics shortly. I can do 95% of the work itself but to be honest I had no idea how hardcore these trucks are built.

It does have the switch on the left side of the steering wheel that indicates it has front and rear lockers. I am not sure if that means it is triple locked or not. I know plan on keeping this until it dies or I do. I love the look of these trucks.

I appreciate all of the help and I at least some things to review. Is anyone in Florida?
 
Sounds like a good deal . Give yourself some time to enjoy the car and get to know her. There is lots of good information here, lots to learn, plenty of knowledgeable and helpful people here. In time I think you'll find it's one of the best decisions you've made.
 
Meh, "needs tires" could be any car. Figure out why the CDL wont engage (hopefully simple). Who cares about bumpers? They are just tin cans anyway. Sounds like a typical used cruiser to me.
 
For many people, that actually is good advice. Not for all of us though. Some of us like to go past where the minivans have to stop and turn around.

You'd be amazed at far you can get a Toyota minivan before you can't turn around...you have to back up...some times a long ways before there's room to turn around. My :princess: was PISSED! :slap:
 
Sounds like the biggest problem is, you let the LC owner's rose colored glass slip!

Keep those glasses on, and anything can be fixed :cool:

Some of your concerns could have very simple, low dollar fixes, they just need some investigation.
 
as someone else said above, these CDL and F/R diff actuators and switches tend to stop working when theyre not used, but are highly likely to come back to life on their own, when activated enough.

when I got mine all 3 were stuck, the lights would just flash, and until the CDL comes on, neither F or R can.

on advice from others I operated the hi/low lever 30x (it was REALLY stiff and hard to throw) per day (on soft ground, in case) for about a week, until "click" it fixed itself and the CDL dropped in, light stayed on. then similar playing with F/R for another hour or so, saw them both, one after another, stop flashing, come in and lock.

and it's all just worked flawlessly ever since, Ive never had the actuators out or anything.

wonderful cars, can just repair themselves after years of neglect.
 
I have read a good many posts in this thread that talk about how expensive these trucks get. I do not know if I agree with that. Point being, you can buy, baseline, clean up and make a couple improvements for $20K and have yourself a very nice and highly capable AWD vehicle.

The days of having a nice secondary pleasure vehicle for $10K that you can count on are pretty much gone. When you compare the costs of bringing an 80 back to life vs a comparable new vehicle, they are pretty damn cheap. I'd rather roll in an 80 that I have $25K into than a new Tahoe. The new in that Tahoe fades in a big hurry, if you have payments it will be quicker. It's kinda like that first dent in a new truck, you walk on egg shells before, drive with abandon after. Only with the 80 you did not take that original depreciation hit that you would with a new truck and it already had that first dent!
 
I have read a good many posts in this thread that talk about how expensive these trucks get. I do not know if I agree with that. Point being, you can buy, baseline, clean up and make a couple improvements for $20K and have yourself a very nice and highly capable AWD vehicle.

The days of having a nice secondary pleasure vehicle for $10K that you can count on are pretty much gone. When you compare the costs of bringing an 80 back to life vs a comparable new vehicle, they are pretty damn cheap. I'd rather roll in an 80 that I have $25K into than a new Tahoe. The new in that Tahoe fades in a big hurry, if you have payments it will be quicker. It's kinda like that first dent in a new truck, you walk on egg shells before, drive with abandon after. Only with the 80 you did not take that original depreciation hit that you would with a new truck and it already had that first dent!

I don't agree with this sentiment. First of all, for me, my cruisers are recreational vehicles. I don't daily drive them. Driving 50+ miles a day by myself just doesn't make sense to me in these rigs. No way I could have $20K in a toy. Hell, I can't justify $20K in any rig, including my DD. Just ain't going to happen for me.

The day of having a nice secondary pleasure vehicle for $10K are not gone at all. Not by a long shot. Friend just bought a '95 in great shape for $3400 yesterday. Even after he puts on lift, tires, baselining, sliders, etc, he won't have $10K into it. And I don't have anywhere near that much in either of my two FZJ80s. And that includes purchase price, baselining, and enhancements. They are both extremely reliable and I would take them anywhere, and have. There is some pretty damn remote areas in Oregon and I take these rigs there. Some decent wheeling spots too. No problem.

As to comparing a new vehicle to a 25 year old 80 series, total apples to oranges. They have come a long way in vehicle technology and while some is just bells and whistles, much of it is good stuff. Modern engines are way more efficient, produce more power, and are extremely reliable. That being said, there is no modern 4 wheeler I would take over my cruisers. But I'm old and like old school. JMHO and YMMV.
 
I have read a good many posts in this thread that talk about how expensive these trucks get. I do not know if I agree with that. Point being, you can buy, baseline, clean up and make a couple improvements for $20K and have yourself a very nice and highly capable AWD vehicle.

The days of having a nice secondary pleasure vehicle for $10K that you can count on are pretty much gone. When you compare the costs of bringing an 80 back to life vs a comparable new vehicle, they are pretty damn cheap. I'd rather roll in an 80 that I have $25K into than a new Tahoe. The new in that Tahoe fades in a big hurry, if you have payments it will be quicker. It's kinda like that first dent in a new truck, you walk on egg shells before, drive with abandon after. Only with the 80 you did not take that original depreciation hit that you would with a new truck and it already had that first dent!

@94LC80 I agree with a lot in this thread but agree with NCFJ the most. I bought an 80 back in 2014 before the boom. I paid $5000 ( a lot at the time) for a great cosmetic/ about average mechanical condition 96 lx450 w/out lockers. People would beat the door down for that deal today. There are still deals to be had, but the triple locked super clean cruiser for less than $5K days are mostly over. They are the exception, not the rule and its usually some "my cousin's step brother had no idea what he had type of deal".

I shop for cruisers everyday (mostly because I'm a cruiser nerd, but my wife wants an 80 of her own) and have for the last 4-5 years. I think I have a good idea on pricing. The clean locked ones under $10K go fast, like really fast. I've spent round $4k on maintenance. Some necessary, a lot was preventative maintenance. The 80s are not without their issues, but they are built to a very high level. It does cost to bring any 20 year old vehicle up to snuff. When i'm done with lockers, gears, suspension and the other odds and ends I'll have close to $20K into it. Well worth it TO ME. What's the alternative ( for the average guy, not us crazies on mud)? A $40,000 4runner with 10grand worth of accessories? I love the 80 and it has less issues and goes down the road significantly better than my Jeep w/ 60,000 miles. I hope you enjoy it. Don't get scared off. Lots of info and help on this forum once you get past all the web wheelers. They are great vehicles and are worth the cost of admission. Also, remember the numbers I'm throwing out will be a lot less if you are not obsessive like most of us/ don't want a full build out.
 
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@94LC80 I agree with a lot in this thread but agree with NCFJ the most. I bought an 80 back in 2014 before the boom. I paid $5000 ( a lot at the time) for a great cosmetic/ about average mechanical condition 96 lx450 w/out lockers. People would beat the door down for that deal today. There are still deals to be had, but the triple locked super clean cruiser for less than $5K days are mostly over. They are the exception, not the rule and its usually some "my cousin's step brother had no idea what he had type of deal".

I shop for cruisers everyday (mostly because I'm a cruiser nerd, but my wife wants an 80 of her own) and have for the last 4-5 years. I think I have a good idea on pricing. The clean locked ones under $10K go fast, like really fast. I've spent round $4k on maintenance. Some necessary, a lot was preventative maintenance. The 80s are not without their issues, but they are built to a very high level. It does cost to bring any 20 year old vehicle up to snuff. When i'm done with lockers, gears, suspensions and the other odds and ends I'll have close to $20K into it. Well worth it TO ME. What's the alternative ( for the average guy, not us crazies on mud)? A $40,000 4runner with 10grand worth of accessories? I love the 80 and it has less issues and goes down the road significantly better than my Jeep w/ 60,000 miles. I hope you enjoy it. Don't get scared off. Lots of info and help on this forum once you get past all the web wheelers. They are great vehicles are worth the cost of admission. Also, remember the numbers I'm throwing out will be a lot less if you are not obsessive like most of us/ don't want a full build out.

Totally agree to the above! I have spent over 15k into my rig and i am close to being done for the time being. That being said, it is now "trail" worthy and i wouldn't hesitate to take it across country, but not before address all the PMs and adding other belts and whistles to my liking. To me, the $20k investment is well worth it in my book.
 
Rigs must be cheaper up in the PNW? Sure, there are lots of people asking what I think is too much for their rigs. But if you are patient and look frequently, you'll find something much less than what most people are asking. Patients will save you thousands of dollars. JMHO.
 

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