Delta VS Radius Arms (2 Viewers)

[GW Nugget]

High clearance & more caster... great.
So, if someone had a 3" lift 23" center of hub to bottom of flare what kind of caster numbers are we maybe looking at with 4" arms? Or do you have 3" arms available?

 

[Delta VS]

High clearance & more caster... great.
So, if someone had a 3" lift 23" center of hub to bottom of flare what kind of caster numbers are we maybe looking at with 4" arms? Or do you have 3" arms available?

Would you mind taking these measurements? Compiling/comparing lift and caster data That will give a much more accurate idea.

 

[Chrisw023]

The high clearance arms look great!

 

[eimkeith]

(new guy) Just chiming in here: if rock abrasion is a concern because of the construction of the arms, could not a sacrificial plate be welded along the bottom side?

Or better yet, a pre-formed bolt-through bottom skid plate. (tabs up the sides, sleeved through the arm) Looks like it would be a fairly small area at the front of the arm. Thrash it, then replace it. (repeat business, which I like)

I'm also interested in the extended arm idea - as tires go bigger, getting them away from the firewall is sensible. I realize that you can't possibly provide a design for every situation, but maybe some "plus sizing" makes sense? As lifts get taller, the axle creeps forward?

 

[Delta VS]

Just chiming in here: if rock abrasion is a concern because of the construction of the arms, could not a sacrificial plate be welded along the bottom side?

Or better yet, a pre-formed bolt-through bottom skid plate. (tabs up the sides, sleeved through the arm) Looks like it would be a fairly small area at the front of the arm. Thrash it, then replace it. (repeat business, which I like)

I'm also interested in the extended arm idea - as tires go bigger, getting them away from the firewall is sensible. I realize that you can't possibly provide a design for every situation, but maybe some "plus sizing" makes sense? As lifts get taller, the axle creeps forward?

Thanks for chiming in! Rock abrasion is not a concern of ours, as mentioned above. As far as adding a skid plate below, then everybody is going to complain/whine about the loss of ground clearance.

The arms are already longer as we design them now. With our arms, the stock wheelbase is kept at the stated lift height of each model (2", 4", 6") by growing each one a little more. We can certainly make custom ones too.

edit: extra words

 

[eimkeith]

Thanks for chiming in! Rock abrasion is not a concern of ours, as mentioned above. As far as adding a skid plate below, then everybody is going to complain/whine about the loss of ground clearance.

The arms are already longer as we design them now. With our arms, the stock wheelbase is kept at the stated lift height of each model (2", 4", 6") by growing each one a little more. We can certainly make custom ones too.

edit: extra words

I like the product - and I like seeing the progression. Folks are certainly capable of adding skids if they're wheeling-core.
Being open to custom lengths is forward-thinking - kudos to you all.

 

[baldilocks]

Anyone who could actually grind these arms on rocks to the point that integrity is compromised needs to give serious consideration to a 3 link because they obviously crawl large rocks a lot.

More weld beads could be laid down to build up an area where the original weld was worn away.

someone mentioning this does not mean there is a true possibility of it happening before hell freezes over.

 

[Bludozer]

Anyone who could actually grind these arms on rocks to the point that integrity is compromised needs to give serious consideration to a 3 link because they obviously crawl large rocks a lot.

More weld beads could be laid down to build up an area where the original weld was worn away.

someone mentioning this does not mean there is a true possibility of it happening before hell freezes over.

Welcome to Mud. Lots of concern about meaningless nonsensical BS. By the way @Delta VS , have my slinky/icon stuff + your arms/kit finally installed and on the truck. Will post review soon, but first impressions could not be better.

 

[Delta VS]

Will post review soon, but first impressions could not be better.

Glad they are working out the way they should!

 

[baldilocks]

Welcome to Mud. Lots of concern about meaningless nonsensical BS. By the way @Delta VS , have my slinky/icon stuff + your arms/kit finally installed and on the truck. Will post review soon, but first impressions could not be better.

Among us are a few radius arm haters who like to phish for fools. I enjoy the volley of commentary and welcome an open discussion.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Anyone who could actually grind these arms on rocks to the point that integrity is compromised needs to give serious consideration to a 3 link because they obviously crawl large rocks a lot.

More weld beads could be laid down to build up an area where the original weld was worn away.

someone mentioning this does not mean there is a true possibility of it happening before hell freezes over.

If anyone ever needs to butter up the bottoms and touch them up use STOODY hard surfacing rod. We used to run beads/cross hatch patterns on D8 and D10 dozer blades/arms, trackhoe buckets and maintainer blades to make them last against granite and quartz digs for pipelines. An 1/8-3/16" layer of this would last a lifetime on one of these radius arms....

J

 

[GW Nugget]

Would you mind taking these measurements? Compiling/comparing lift and caster data That will give a much more accurate idea.

22" & 18" so 4" difference. The rear was 5" before I added you rear bracket.
How much lift does this come to in your opinion the way you look at lift?

 

[Delta VS]

22" & 18" so 4" difference. The rear was 5" before I added you rear bracket.
How much lift does this come to in your opinion the way you look at lift?

What we’ve seen so far when it comes to stock rigs is somewhere between .75”-1.25” difference or so, depending on sag, etc. So a 4” difference sounds like right around a 3” lift to me (as you mentioned). With the 4” regular clearance arms, you would probably be right about 3-4* or so (it will also depend on if you have any stinkbug or sag in the back), with the HC arms it would just be 1* more.

 

[GW Nugget]

What we’ve seen so far when it comes to stock rigs is somewhere between .75”-1.25” difference or so, depending on sag, etc. So a 4” difference sounds like right around a 3” lift to me (as you mentioned). With the 4” regular clearance arms, you would probably be right about 3-4* or so (it will also depend on if you have any stinkbug or sag in the back), with the HC arms it would just be 1* more.

Good to know... it all makes since from what you have measured... generally a 20 year old 80 series sits stock around 20" from center of hub to bottom of flare all corners. Mine suspension sits 23" plus my 1" body lift = 24".
I had my 2.5" drop bracket plus the yellow the OME caster correction bushings & loved it... I figured it was around 4 to 5 degrees of caster. Now I have stock bushing plus the 2.5" of drop brackets & its more twitchy.... once I load up the 80 with a bunch of stuff & a trailer it drives better in a bulldog squat stance... more caster…. makes since... right?

You don't have a extra set of the High Clearance arms siting around to test out or anything do you? Just asking... haha... Ill even a used set...
Later... I'm out...

 

[Chrisw023]

Any new updates on the high clearance arms?

 

[Delta VS]

Any new updates on the high clearance arms?

Have 1 set of 4” and 1 set of 6” in the shop now for testing/flexing. Will be reporting back late next week or so.

 

[Delta VS]

Aaaaand here we have it. 6" HC arms have been caster checked and tested for fit during flex (via forklift to the point of driver rear tire off the ground). More than enough room between tie rod and arms. See pics below.

As you can see, the passenger side is the closer of the two, but still has PLENTY of room. 4th pic shows the rear could be flexed a little more, but not a whole lot (will post a pic of how stuffed rear passenger tire is in next post). Any way about it, rear swaybar is forcing front to flex a bit more than it would if rear could flex more.

 

[Delta VS]

forgot to post the other pics

 

[pawnthatdude]

I installed these a few days ago. I got the 2" arms for my OME 2.5" heavy lift. I already had OME caster correction bushings but my caster was still almost zero. I installed these with Toyota bushings, and it did make an improvement. Not a night and day improvement like some people have said (probably with larger lifts) but it does feel better in the corners and tracks straighter. I haven't gotten the caster checked yet.

For the install, I did need to use a ratchet strap (between the frame and the axle) and floor jack (below the control arm) to line up the holes. It was actually pretty easy using both of those.

Also, unless I am crazy, the chassis side bolt head is definitely 22mm, not 24. This was the case on the bolt I took out and the Delta supplied replacement. So you don't need a 24mm wrench for this job, just a 24mm socket for the nut. @Delta VS you might want to update your instructions.

 

[Delta VS]

I installed these a few days ago. I got the 2" arms for my OME 2.5" heavy lift. I already had OME caster correction bushings but my caster was still almost zero. I installed these with Toyota bushings, and it did make an improvement. Not a night and day improvement like some people have said (probably with larger lifts) but it does feel better in the corners and tracks straighter. I haven't gotten the caster checked yet.

For the install, I did need to use a ratchet strap (between the frame and the axle) and floor jack (below the control arm) to line up the holes. It was actually pretty easy using both of those.

Also, unless I am crazy, the chassis side bolt head is definitely 22mm, not 24. This was the case on the bolt I took out and the Delta supplied replacement. So you don't need a 24mm wrench for this job, just a 24mm socket for the nut. @Delta VS you might want to update your instructions.

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Noted, thank you!