Defrost hose collars????

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Oct 25, 2013
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Location
Texas
The heater is finally working but the defroster hose collars (I guess that's what you call them) are either gone or almost useless. What can I fab up to replace the collars and hold the defrost hoses in the proper spots?? PVC??
 
I've used standard duct tape on various auto heater units in the past but it gets all gooey with the heating and condensation.

Aluminum duct tape sounds like a better option.

Probably tough to find PVC or ABS with the right inner dia. but I've never checked into it. Might have to put it on a lathe to get things to fit right. Maybe you could super-glue some strips of sheet rubber into rings with the right diameter. You can get it at the local Ace/True Value/whatever.
 
Are you talking about these?(where they connect to the top hard plastic defrost connection)
Couple of options--wrap the connections with 3M Scotch 23 rubber splicing tape-not the stuff that has adhesive on it, this stuff stretches and adheres to itself-(can be stretched 1000%)a couple of rounds and the flex duct should fit tight over it.
Try some thin walled pvc pipe- maybe 2" or less. Wrap one end with 4 wraps of the tape, the other with 2 wraps. Stick the 4 wrap end into the flex hose, and the 2 wrap into the defrost duct.(you'll have to experiment to get the right number of wraps to make each connection tight)
If you're not planning to ever take it apart again, you could use regular GE silicone sealant(or equivalent)
heating ducts.webp
 
You lost me at collars, the heater outlets and upper defrost vents are all metal on a 40? If you are referring to the hoses, another member came across these lately as a much cheaper option than the stock hoses that work great. They are the 2.5 inch duct from Summit made by Dayco part 80170, defroster duct hose, Dayco autoflex.

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Tucker
 
Took my old hoses to NAPA. Bought correct lengths of flexible hose in approximate diameters, similar to above. Pushed it on at both heater and metal ducting. Works fine after three years. No shipping, no excessive re-engineering required. I suppose you could use black plastic slip ties if necessary.
 
collar

Actually on both of my hoses like 1 & 2 in this diagram. The elbow in the passenger side the hose slips into the elbow and the hose has a collar that fits over the flex hose and onto the metal duct lip.
The drivers side is the same style except the hose is far shorter because it doesnt have to run behind the blower ducting
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Actually on both of my hoses like 1 & 2 in this diagram. The elbow in the passenger side the hose slips into the elbow and the hose has a collar that fits over the flex hose and onto the metal duct lip. The drivers side is the same style except the hose is far shorter because it doesnt have to run behind the blower ducting
That's just the factory hose, as you see by the lack of numbers you can't buy those separately. SOR & Cruiser Corps sell them if you want stock, we were just showing you more economical options -

Tucker
 
I just looked at mine. Any chance some kind of vacuum hose/shop vac accessory might work?
 
SOR sells the elbows. They are pricey though. My tubes were missing altogether so I used heater vent tubing from AutoZone. I think it was 10 bucks for a 7' section. It slips right on and holds tight enough with no clamps or tape.
 
Defrost hose repair

I just finished re-installing the hoses on a 75, Fj40. The elbows were fine after liberal quantities of Goop hand cleaner treatment. The upper collars were useless, however. what I finally did was construct a new collar using 3/16 rubber sheet. I cut the rubber to the correct size then rolled it intop a column with about 1/4 overlap. I glued the rubber using an industrial, flexible, cement used for repairing conveyer belts. Once the new collar was cured I glued it to the flex hose. O droped a thumbscrew hose clamp around the collar, oriented the seam to the firewall and tightened the clamp. It is a solid repair that cost about $25 for the rubber sheet & adhesive.
 
Here was my simple fix (mine were missing when I purchased it) It is just a generic duct hose from Autozone for like $11.99: Dimensions 2-1/2" x 72" PN 96004 you can trim it to size to do both ducts, and have some left. I used black zip ties to secure it on top & bottom & it works great!

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It's not original but it works well!!
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Defrost hose repair

I just finished re-installing the hoses on a 75, Fj40. The elbows were fine after liberal quantities of Goop hand cleaner treatment. The upper collars were useless, however. what I finally did was construct a new collar using 3/16 rubber sheet. I cut the rubber to the correct size then rolled it intop a column with about 1/4 overlap. I glued the rubber using an industrial, flexible, cement used for repairing conveyer belts. Once the new collar was cured I glued it to the flex hose. O droped a thumbscrew hose clamp around the collar, oriented the seam to the firewall and tightened the clamp. It is a solid repair that cost about $25 for the rubber sheet & adhesive.

Heater detail Jan 2014 (3).webp
 
Defrost hose repair

I just finished re-installing the hoses on a 75, Fj40. The elbows were fine after liberal quantities of Goop hand cleaner treatment. The upper collars were useless, however. what I finally did was construct a new collar using 3/16 rubber sheet. I cut the rubber to the correct size then rolled it intop a column with about 1/4 overlap. I glued the rubber using an industrial, flexible, cement used for repairing conveyer belts. Once the new collar was cured I glued it to the flex hose. O droped a thumbscrew hose clamp around the collar, oriented the seam to the firewall and tightened the clamp. It is a solid repair that cost about $25 for the rubber sheet & adhesive.

Heater detail Jan 2014 (2).webp
 
go to lowes or home depot and buy some 2'' rubber plumbing couplers worked like a charm! the hoses themselves were good on the last one i took apart but the ends were torn. i have photos of mine if you search "tucker and roma's rebuild"

Thanks for this. Worked perfectly
 

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