Dakota digital fuel sender help

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steffan

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I’ve read through a bunch of the different threads on this regarding testing the sending unit, resistance at different levels etc but I’m still scratching my head.
In the test mode for the guages, at empty it reads 999 ohms, at about 1/3 tank to full it fluctuates between 32-36 ohms.
I’ve tried on the standard 6v lead as well as the 12v lead.
This is a new Toyota sender - possibly bad?
Am I missing something?
Thanks
 
I’ve read through a bunch of the different threads on this regarding testing the sending unit, resistance at different levels etc but I’m still scratching my head.
In the test mode for the guages, at empty it reads 999 ohms, at about 1/3 tank to full it fluctuates between 32-36 ohms.
I’ve tried on the standard 6v lead as well as the 12v lead.
This is a new Toyota sender - possibly bad?
Am I missing something?
Thanks
I couldn’t get my Toyota sender to work with the Dakota- ended up using a Classic Instruments sender. It was a little stubborn to get sealed up though.

Similar to this, you’ll need to measure to get the right fit. Classic Instruments SN35T8 Classic Instruments Tube-Type Fuel Level Senders | Summit Racing - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cin-sn35t8?seid=srese1&ppckw=pmax-restoration&gclid=Cj0KCQjw1Yy5BhD-ARIsAI0RbXbHX4S79fT7zPQnB3l6pvN2Z2qNNOVnBX1NxOoit_NhVvmTs1p7WZIaAmnCEALw_wcB
 
Similarly, on our 1970 40 series, I couldn't get the OE fuel sender to sync with our DD. I ended up using Actron SP0F000013 Bosch Fuel Level Sender from Amazon. (240 ohms empty/33 ohms full and 130 ohms half). I believe that it cost about $30.00 a few years ago.
 
I believe that the Toyota sender should have a range of 17 to 120 ohms full to empty but I found on mine that those ohms were not continuous across the range. From what I understood after speaking with DD is that you have to program each quarter tank measurement.

I ended up ditching the OEM sender and going with a 0-90 ohm floatless sender.
 
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Thanks everyone - that helps and confirms my findings. Looks like I’m shopping for aftermarket.
The Actron SP0F000013 Bosch Fuel Level Sender is still available for $21 on Amazon.
For those that ended up going aftermarket, did you have to re-drill the mounting holes?
Thanks again!
 
I’ve tried to calibrate mine too multiple times without any luck. I gotta pick up one or those tube senders eventually as I hear those are plug and play once you cut it to the correct length
 
Thanks everyone - that helps and confirms my findings. Looks like I’m shopping for aftermarket.
The Actron SP0F000013 Bosch Fuel Level Sender is still available for $21 on Amazon.
For those that ended up going aftermarket, did you have to re-drill the mounting holes?
Thanks again!
I had to open up one of the holes slightly. Had an issue with fuel coming up the threads so had to use sealant on the bolts.
 
I’ve tried to calibrate mine too multiple times without any luck. I gotta pick up one or those tube senders eventually as I hear those are plug and play once you cut it to the correct length
I highly recommend the floatless sender from Tanks Inc. It’s a bit pricey at $125 but it is super high quality and very accurate. It also provides a very consistent reading without much fluctuation from fuel slosh.

You can get these made to custom length but you can’t modify it once it is made because it has a circuit board inside that spans the full length of the tube.


Thanks everyone - that helps and confirms my findings. Looks like I’m shopping for aftermarket.
The Actron SP0F000013 Bosch Fuel Level Sender is still available for $21 on Amazon.
For those that ended up going aftermarket, did you have to re-drill the mounting holes?
Thanks again!
I installed mine in a custom tank so I can’t provide any tips for the stock mounting holes.
 
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I ended up using the Dakota Digital fuel sending unit mounted in one of Mark’s poly tanks. Works great.
IMG_6136.png

One feature I didn’t know about was the low fuel warning. Makes you feel like you’re driving something modern. Almost.
IMG_6133.jpeg
 
72 and earlier fuel senders will not work with DD. Those use a voltage variation to signal the gage. A 73 through 78(?) will work but you have to elongate the holes to mount to the tank. The later ones work on variable resistance and can be calibrated per the DD procedure under Custom.

In my 1968 with a DD, I use the later tank sender. What I found is that it takes forever to get to 1/2 tank, from 1/2 to empty, drops like a rock. I also run dual tanks, there is no sender in rear tank. That one is ‘drive ‘till it’s dry’ and hopefully there’s enough left in the float bowl to get you through a busy intersection….🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
 
Yeah Mark, 270 to half, then start looking cuz it’s dropping fast.
 
Yeah Mark, 270 to half, then start looking cuz it’s dropping fast.
Based on how long it takes to burn through the first 1/2 tank, it’s like you’re driving a Prius, like in excess of 40 MPG, then you hit the bottom half, like someone removed the tank drain plug. When at 1/2 tank, it’s like the reserve light on a modern car….you got 10 miles to find a gas pump….🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
 
Sorry to hijack but I ended up with 17 mpg pushing 70+ keeping up with traffic on hwy 99 with a roof rack and kayak yesterday heading north towards Mendocino. The versatility of the DD in tracking all of that is nice. It’s a well engineered product. Best I could do with the F.5 and 4 speed was 14.
IMG_6140.jpeg

It was funny driving thru Mendocino today. All the ‘50+, Tesla driving software engineers’ with their plastique wives stopping and watching the 50+ year old Landcruiser driving thru. I could see the thought bubble over theit heads. ‘WTF am I doing with my life??’
All I was thinking was ‘she looks fun’.
That rumble from the LS didn’t help matters.
 
Sorry to hijack but I ended up with 17 mpg pushing 70+ keeping up with traffic on hwy 99 with a roof rack and kayak yesterday heading north towards Mendocino. The versatility of the DD in tracking all of that is nice. It’s a well engineered product. Best I could do with the F.5 and 4 speed was 14. View attachment 3764079
It was funny driving thru Mendocino today. All the ‘50+, Tesla driving software engineers’ with their plastique wives stopping and watching the 50+ year old Landcruiser driving thru. I could see the thought bubble over theit heads. ‘WTF am I doing with my life??’
All I was thinking was ‘she looks fun’.
That rumble from the LS didn’t help matters.

Love your color choice…..but I’m still kinda’ old school…the original F, 3 on the tree….it dose have a Hone overdrive and on the flat she’ll keep up with modern traffic…Other modern amenities besides the DD include AC, power steering, and disk brakes. But its heart and soul are still based on what was delivered in 1968.

Never had calculated MPG, however that’s not the point….but it gets great Smiles per Miles….🤣🤣🤣

IMG_2585.jpeg
 
76.

With my Dakota Digital cluster, I calibrated it where you start with an empty tank, put in a ¼ tank. Mark. Repeat.

Took a few tries, but I got it close enough. I believe the original capacity was 16.4 gallons. When it hit zero percent, I had about that .4 gallons left in the tank. The 16 gallon range makes the math super easy to know gallons remaining. 1 gallon, 1/16 of a tank, 6.25%

Biggest thing for me is it being consistent and knowing yourself what you are expecting for mileage so you really know what your range is. In my case, If I know I've got 1½ gallons, in the conditions I've been driving in getting likely close to 21mpg. I know I've got at least 30 miles of range left. So the fuel station 25 miles away isn't a big stressor.
 
How are folks getting 17-21 MPG? I’m getting 12 mpg with a 6.2l LS and I thought that was pretty good considering that my 2F got the same and my SBC got 5-7.

Those questions are best for another thread but speaking about range, how long does it take for the DD gauge to give an accurate range? Mine constantly says that my range is 1-12 miles no matter how much fuel is in it. I’ve burned through two tanks so far and nearly 500 miles so perhaps I just need to drive it more?

@fireflyr, am I understanding correctly that the low fuel warning can’t be adjusted? 10% for me would be about 10-15 miles assuming that I probably will need a gallon or two left behind in the tank to submerge my pickup tube. It would be nice to set this warning to 15%. Thanks for the reminder about this feature.

I added a few pictures for fun.

IMG_1775.jpeg


IMG_1691.jpeg
 
How are folks getting 17-21 MPG? I’m getting 12 mpg with a 6.2l LS and I thought that was pretty good considering that my 2F got the same and my SBC got 5-7.

Those questions are best for another thread but speaking about range, how long does it take for the DD gauge to give an accurate range? Mine constantly says that my range is 1-12 miles no matter how much fuel is in it. I’ve burned through two tanks so far and nearly 500 miles so perhaps I just need to drive it more?

@fireflyr, am I understanding correctly that the low fuel warning can’t be adjusted? 10% for me would be about 10-15 miles assuming that I probably will need a gallon or two left behind in the tank to submerge my pickup tube. It would be nice to set this warning to 15%. Thanks for the reminder about this feature.

I added a few pictures for fun.

View attachment 3764335

View attachment 3764336
Wow. Nice truck! I haven’t read anything about being able to adjust it. Heck, I didn’t even know it had this feature.

Everything up to this point has been about ironing out all the little bugs of installing the 5.3L/4L60e. I need to get back into the DD manual to set it up better. I don’t need to know what my 1/4 mile time is…
 
Wow. Nice truck! I haven’t read anything about being able to adjust it. Heck, I didn’t even know it had this feature.

Everything up to this point has been about ironing out all the little bugs of installing the 5.3L/4L60e. I need to get back into the DD manual to set it up better. I don’t need to know what my 1/4 mile time is…
Thanks! It is fun to drive and I can’t wait to finish it.

I forgot about the 1/4 mile, 0-60 stats. I turned all of that off. Let me know if you do find a way to tune the empty warning specs.

On a separate note, and for those with engines that run hotter than the 2F, something else to note is that the temperature reading on the wand gauge might be hard to read. Mine stays around 220°F on the gauge when the engine is between 205 and 220°F. I contacted Dakota Digital and for 2 hours of labor they are going to recalibrate my temperature gauge so that it reads between 190°F and 220°F instead of 140°F to 220°F.
 

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