Great build. I'm in the process of putting a 3FE in my FJ40. Thanks sharing your build with everyone!
-Phil
-Phil
Da'40: The Baby Steps Forward
- Thread starter pappy
- Start date
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Are the summit pumps still holding up. I am considering using one...
Mark, where did you plumb the fuel return on the under-seat tank? It looks like Jon's isn't functional, at least not for holding fuel.
Jon,
I run a summit racing pump on my 3FE. It's mounted at the rear of my truck on the frame rail. When I first start the truck up, I can hear it running, and even hear the fuel flowing back into the tank under the PS seat. I kind of like being able to hear it to just make sure things are working. I have a hidden off switch, and sometimes I jump in the truck and forget to flip it, so the fuel pump sound it a nice reminder. Details are in my 3FE40 thread, but it looks just like the pumps you show in your pictues.
Also - I've had this pump in the truck for almost a year, and have been daily driving the FJ40, and I've had no problems.
Once Iam driving, and have the radio playing, I don't even notice it. Just my $.02.
-Mark
Mark, where did you plumb the fuel return on the under-seat tank? It looks like Jon's isn't functional, at least not for holding fuel.
- Thread starter
- #863
IH8 Electrical Gemlins
Awhile back I had a problem with my tail lights popping the fuse. I replaced the relay and all was good. At the last meeting my tail lights popped leaving Onur's place. I swapped out the fuse, and tinkered around a bit, but it continued to pop, mostly after hitting bumps.
I dinked around with it yesterday. I had the truck in the garage overnight with the tail lights on (plus battery charger) and they were still on when I went out to the garage this morning. As soon as I pulled out of the garage ... POP. GRRRRR.
Thanks to Ash for brain-storming how to go about looking for the problem. I found it. Long story short I was messing with the harness at the tail lights and noticed the wire going to the license plate. That's when my light went on. The gas can sits next to the plate light, and sure enough it smashed through the wire and shorted. It's fixed for now pending a permanent solution.
At least I can now drive at night.
Awhile back I had a problem with my tail lights popping the fuse. I replaced the relay and all was good. At the last meeting my tail lights popped leaving Onur's place. I swapped out the fuse, and tinkered around a bit, but it continued to pop, mostly after hitting bumps.
I dinked around with it yesterday. I had the truck in the garage overnight with the tail lights on (plus battery charger) and they were still on when I went out to the garage this morning. As soon as I pulled out of the garage ... POP. GRRRRR.
Thanks to Ash for brain-storming how to go about looking for the problem. I found it. Long story short I was messing with the harness at the tail lights and noticed the wire going to the license plate. That's when my light went on. The gas can sits next to the plate light, and sure enough it smashed through the wire and shorted. It's fixed for now pending a permanent solution.
At least I can now drive at night.
My Return line comes off the FPR on the fire wall. It is not a OEM set up like Pappy.
Check out Tucker74 3FE thread, I just posted pictures and part numbers, and there is talk about the fuel stuff there. -Mark
Check out Tucker74 3FE thread, I just posted pictures and part numbers, and there is talk about the fuel stuff there. -Mark
- Thread starter
- #865
Moving the spring hanger fix over here. Two pics of the boxed spring hanger as received from B&K Fab.
- Thread starter
- #866
Pics of the piece slid into the frame almost ready for welding.
after seeing pics of your break, I checked mine. I boxed the frame at the time fortunately, so it still looks good.
your looks bomb proof now. very purty!
your looks bomb proof now. very purty!
alia176
SILVER Star
Pappy,
How crazy would it be to box in this member as well? Nothing crazy but just enough to give the whole thing a little more rigidity.
Just some random thoughts.
How crazy would it be to box in this member as well? Nothing crazy but just enough to give the whole thing a little more rigidity.
Just some random thoughts.
The problem with "boxing it in" is that there is a thing called the fatigue limit in steel. If you eliminate the flex throughout the length of the "box" there will be a concentration of stress at the end of the box and it will more frequently exceed the fatigue limit.
alia176
SILVER Star
ahh, got it.
- Thread starter
- #871
So am I OK, or did I over engineer this?
Well, it's a dynamic problem - in other words, with a slowly applied load it's not really a problem. Since you're not racing it it's not as bad. Think of it as less travel in a spring. The flex in the frame is limited so there is less compliance to soak up the deflection, so there is more stress on the unreinforced section. If there's no corrosion concern, I'd just check it specifically when you give it the once over before you take it out. The box is definitely strong enough, if there's no cracking or deformation on the adjacent section I wouldn't worry about it. I'm probably the one over analyzing it.
FWIW, isn't this the reason the old C/K BLazer and Pick-up frames always cracked where the steering box was mounted? IIRC it was the only place the frame was boxed and so the extra stress of off-road loads caused a common failure at that point due to lack of flex? Even though the FJ60 frame is boxed from the front spring hangers to aft of rear raxle, I still was able to sever one weld on the front hanger trying to winch Bushrat off a stump one time, just because the downforce was too great for the original weld. So there's always a circumstance where something can break. For the record, Gorman welded a new joint for me and fabbed a gusset which have since been fine...just fine.
- Thread starter
- #874
One reason the piece was heat treated (annealed) was to actually make the metal less brittle. Bud said that annealing the piece would make it more likely to flex and help prevent cracking. Of course, that was before I welded the box into the frame, but I think overall the hanger is less likely to peal back away from the box.
DanS HJ-45
SILVER Star
He's right. The annealed metal will be "softer" and avoid cracking. If you want to keep it as "soft" as possible when you weld it in, take a torch and pre-heat the areas to weld before you let the MIG rip. As long as you've got nice fillets on your weld with good penetration you should be fine.
Frankly, I think you're fine either way. I don't know if I'd go to the trouble of boxing the frame on top of the box you put in there, but the left side came boxed from the factory (but that had a lot to do with the center link) so I don't think you have to worry too much about introducing a weird stress load by boxing the front right, as long as it's done similar to the left.
Dan
- Thread starter
- #876
Da'40 is dead. Went to CA this weekend for a wedding. Decided to take the LC. Had a premonition. Should have not taken it. Dumb. Should have turned around and taken the 4Runner. Took 16 hours to get to Bishop with fuel pump issues crossing the Mojave (desert was stupid hot). Ran like a champ on the way home. Twenty minutes from home it starting acting like it was running on 5 cylinders, then it started to knock real bad. Oil pressure was 50psi. Pulled off the highway on 9 Mile Hill. Checked dipstick, low. Pulled rocker arm cover to look for stuck valve, but seems OK. It did look dry on top.
Da'40 is in the garage now. Only down one quart. Time for bed.
Da'40 is in the garage now. Only down one quart. Time for bed.
ToyotaDon
I am here
That's too bad, Jon.
Now build it stronger and better.
Now build it stronger and better.
- Thread starter
- #878
It ain't dead yet. I'm going to get caught up today and tackle the engine tomorrow. I need to do some homework and see how oil gets to the to top of the engine.
Sorry to hear about this.
Did they use a 2F or 3F head gasket for the build? Is there a difference? There's a bugaboo about putting the 2F HG on backwards and blocking one of the oil journals to the head.
Jon - That's a bummer. Keep us posted as you know more.
By the way, does your "2FE" have the huge 19mm oil pan drain plug? If so, I've got a couple new ones with your name on them. I had them from the 2F in our old '87 60 (don't know why I had two), and there's a few drain plug gaskets as well. I think all of our current vehicles have similar 14 mm drain plugs.
By the way, does your "2FE" have the huge 19mm oil pan drain plug? If so, I've got a couple new ones with your name on them. I had them from the 2F in our old '87 60 (don't know why I had two), and there's a few drain plug gaskets as well. I think all of our current vehicles have similar 14 mm drain plugs.
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