Da'40: The Baby Steps Forward

[pappy]

I didn't see any oil in the radiator. I'll look again.

 

[pappy]

It's nice having unemployed friends in need of a few bucks. Finding the time and the motivation to deal with da'40 just wasn't happening any time soon. Thanks Ali for getting this jump started (for a price of course).

As expected, head gasket was burned through cylinders 1 & 2.

 

[marcfj60]

How does that happen?

 

[evanz80]

How does that happen?

I'm certainly no expert, but it seems a possibility that either the head surface on the engine block and/or the mating surface on the cylinder head itself was not flat or otherwise did not have a good surface. If there was any sort of gap between the block and the head, other than a flat uniform one to be filled by the gasket, then the gases will want to travel between the cylinders - it's the path of least resistance.

Just a guess, but it seems that maybe the engine builder did not verify mating surfaces before the engine was assembled. I'll be interested to hear more from someone that actually knows what they are talking about.

 

[pappy]

Well, due to complications I'll be taking the head to Budlongs so maybe they can at least inspect the surface for any problems.

 

[SteveLCetc]

It could also have been a little ding or fold in the head gasket.

 

[Devil Frog]

was there any type of warranty from DOA?

 

[pappy]

Certainly not in writing.

 

[pappy]

Life is getting in the way of getting this engine taken care of. I have jury duty this week and we had a long break today. So, cylinder head is now at Budlong for inspection. First thing they noticed is a bunch of junk on the first valve stem, the same valve that was sticking open. I told them to inspect the head, not just the offending #1 and #2 cylinders. I also showed them the head gasket. They made several off-hand comments that I will keep to myself until I do some more research of my own, and until they have a chance to inspect the head.

 

[pappy]

Went to Budlong for an update on the head.

On the plus side, they were impressed with the porting and stuff that was done to the head. There were no cracks.

The negative side is a bit more extensive.

Three intake valves need to be replaced.
All the valve guides need to be replaced, with seals.
The valve seats will need to be reground.

They had lots of questions about the valve springs. First, they were not factory and they thought the springs were from a Chevrolet application (not uncommon). They were wider at the base than the OEM, and they tapered narrower at the top. The valve retainers were apparently from a Vortec engine. They thought the valve springs were kinda cool in this applications, though they were not sure why except for maybe the "gee wiz" factor.

Also, they noticed that the spring seats were missing, and there were shims at the bottom instead. They surmised that because the bottom of the spring was not supported the spring "walked" and was not centered on the valve stem, causing the valve to move laterally taking out the guides.

They still had a bunch of questions, and I'm taking them the FSM tomorrow.

 

[cruiserdan]

nothing quite like working on something that is made out of who-knows-what. Good luck sorting it out.

 

[pappy]

They used one of your favorite words Dan ... "cobbled." They have assured me when they are done it will be done right and will last longer than 10k miles.

 

[Cruisergreg]

They have assured me when they are done it will be done right and will last longer than 10k miles.

That would be useful for a 200K engine.

 

[Cruisergreg]

They had lots of questions about the valve springs. First, they were not factory and they thought the springs were from a Chevrolet application (not uncommon).

In my first foray into major landcruiser mechanics back in the day (1980s) I had a machine shop redo a 2F head and they recommended replacement chevy pushrods because "they were the same but cheaper". There clearly was some specification difference because I could never get the valves adjusted correctly and ended up with valve guide issues in short order. Finally swapped the whole thing out for a SOR low mileage engine that ran strong up until I finally sold the rig years later. Cheaper and cool factor don't seem to work well with these weirdo Japanese engines, in my experience at least. OEM baby!

 

[evanz80]

OEM baby!

Hear, hear. I recently switched back to OEM Toyota birfields after the high-tech Longfields wore out in short order. When I bought them, no one realized that they would wear too quickly in an 80 with full-time 4WD.

I've always been a fan of Toyota parts, but thought I would avoid potential breakage problems with the Longfields. I'm sticking with Toyota parts from now on. Long live the (LHM) American Toyota parts guys!

 

[pappy]

In the down time waiting for the cylinder head to come back I decided to make one significant improvement to Da'40. At night there is no lighting inside, and fumbling for a flashlight was a PITA. So, here is a pic of the semi-final product. Mounting the FT-8800 was a last minute decision and I wish I had planned accordingly and moved the forward light back. What I might do is acquire a third light and mount it next to the forward light, but about 3" back.

The switch is a lighted switch, and I thought it would be nice to have the light come on when the lights are off. Well, that little blue light is very bright, so I'll probably rewire the switch so the switch light goes off with the lights, like it's supposed to be.

 

[Bad Mojo]

Would you say with both of those lights you have enough illumination and does the back one give enough light to the rear?

If you are going to rearrange items so you radio is more tucked up, you may like these ideas.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Very nice Jon!

I thought about using a lighted switch for the overhead lights in the 40. But then I realized that it would be incredibly obvious if the lights were on when I looked up there anyway, and just went with plan old switches for simplicity.

You don't have any nutserts lying around do you? Any chance I could buy a few and borrow your tool to install them either this week or sometime in the next month? I'd be doing M6 nutserts (and I can order nutserts if I could borrow the tool too).

Dan

 

[pappy]

Actually, I didn't want a lit switch. This was the only switch I saw I liked when I went to the parts store. I had the same thought as you about the switch light being on at the same time as the dome lights. That's why I reversed it.

I'm pretty sure I have some 1/4", 6mmx10, and 8mmx1.25 nutserts. I'm off this Friday and Saturday. I'll be going into work on Sunday at noon. I can also take them to work and you can pick up there.

Very nice Jon!

I thought about using a lighted switch for the overhead lights in the 40. But then I realized that it would be incredibly obvious if the lights were on when I looked up there anyway, and just went with plan old switches for simplicity.

You don't have any nutserts lying around do you? Any chance I could buy a few and borrow your tool to install them either this week or sometime in the next month? I'd be doing M6 nutserts (and I can order nutserts if I could borrow the tool too).

Dan

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Actually, I didn't want a lit switch. This was the only switch I saw I liked when I went to the parts store. I had the same thought as you about the switch light being on at the same time as the dome lights. That's why I reversed it.

I'm pretty sure I have some 1/4", 6mmx10, and 8mmx1.25 nutserts. I'm off this Friday and Saturday. I'll be going into work on Sunday at noon. I can also take them to work and you can pick up there.

Friday should work great. Off hand, do you know what size hole I should drill for the M6 nutserts? If I get the holes drilled, then we might be able to just pop them in super quick. The plan is to be hauling the 40 tub to the blaster on Friday, and your place would be on the way... I could also pop them in when it bets back from paint, but checking things off the list, you know...

Dan