Cut and Turn: My experience

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Trollhole said:
Stock Springs

"Back on with the pinion angle set correctly (+14). We also backed this up by installing the diff and lining up the driveshaft. Centered the housing between the springs. Added the new perches with the weight on the front housing and tighten the u-bolts. The weld the new perches enough so when I did the knuckle turn it would hold the housing from turning. I also tacked the bottom perches on at this time."
Click to expand...

I was also wondering about this.

Is the (+14) a predetermined pinion angle for SOA using stock springs or was this one of your initial measurements?

Again, Great write up!

Thanks,
JC
 
jcj_78FJ40 said:
I was also wondering about this.

Is the (+14) a predetermined pinion angle for SOA using stock springs or was this one of your initial measurements?

Again, Great write up!

Thanks,
JC
Click to expand...


No it will be different for most vehicles. Unless you have wheeled the same places this vehicle has been in 29 years. You have the same shackles and all other components that effect weight ride and spring sag.

So basically no. They are all different.

The degree is with the vehicle weight sitting on the axle with the housing rotated and the pinion in line with drive shaft.

Actually I wish I would have don a few degrees less than 14. As the housing is torqued when wheeling it will naturally point higher. And once caster is set rotating the hosing to fix this will only wake the caster numbers greater while making pinion agle better. It's better to be a little under than over.IMO
 
And you do not have to have the perches mounted to the bottom of the axle. Well at least not on the drivers side. On the passenger side you have to have something there to prevent the ubolt that is losest to the differential housing from slipping down. Any 1/4 inch metal would work. Just look at a stock setup and you will know what I mean.
 
Cruzila and myself just wrapped the same project up on mine with one addition(had it cut and turned by hangtown extreme 4x4 but did all the rest ourselves.) The spring perch nearest the diff was going to cause some "tweaking" of the u-bolt to fit. While we had it all apart, we plasma cut a small section out of the housing and welded in a round stock that would allow the 9/16th U bolt to pass though with out any "customizing." We welded completly on the outside and the inside. I'll try to get some pics up when I get off duty. Great write up:popcorn:
 
hi i dont know how often people check out this thread, but i have a question about cutting off the knuckle. it looks like you just used an electric grinder all the way around. removing the material to make it slide freely seems that it might shorten the overall length of your axle maybe 1/8 - 1/4 inch. does this affect bearings or maybe add some slop in the axel shafts. i dont know what the inside of an axle looks like so these might not even be issues. also, how deep can you cut into the axle? is the axle shaft right up next to the housing or is there an inch or so in there? im guessing that there is air and not oil that will leak out of the axle. oh yeah, i have chevy 3/4 ton axles....anyone know if there are differences in this procedure for those?
 
FJ40spencer said:
hi i dont know how often people check out this thread, but i have a question about cutting off the knuckle. it looks like you just used an electric grinder all the way around. removing the material to make it slide freely seems that it might shorten the overall length of your axle maybe 1/8 - 1/4 inch. does this affect bearings or maybe add some slop in the axel shafts. i dont know what the inside of an axle looks like so these might not even be issues. also, how deep can you cut into the axle? is the axle shaft right up next to the housing or is there an inch or so in there? im guessing that there is air and not oil that will leak out of the axle. oh yeah, i have chevy 3/4 ton axles....anyone know if there are differences in this procedure for those?
Click to expand...

as far as making the axles narrower it wont make a difference because you should be leaving a little bit of space between the 2 base metals for when you weld it you'll get the best penitration that way...

btw wicked thread this will be goin in my file for when i finally get my shiit togather and do my own spring over...
 
I realize this thread is old as shiite but I am just getting to doing this for a build I have going on and this is extremely helpful. I am rotating the axle for a driver drop which will also require me to cut and turn the front diff cover since it is welded on and re-notch for the ring gear.
My setup:
'69 FJ40 (at least what is left of it)
Gen III 5.3L (Howell harness)
4L60e
Atlas
TG rear full floater
Disc brakes all for corners
Leaf spring front and 4 link rear with coilovers (stretched to 104")
40" MTRs on 17" beadlocks
Dakota Digital gauges
Redline Land Cruisers cage and fenders
 
Redeye69 said:
I realize this thread is old as shiite but I am just getting to doing this for a build I have going on and this is extremely helpful. I am rotating the axle for a driver drop which will also require me to cut and turn the front diff cover since it is welded on and re-notch for the ring gear.
My setup:
'69 FJ40 (at least what is left of it)
Gen III 5.3L (Howell harness)
4L60e
Atlas
TG rear full floater
Disc brakes all for corners
Leaf spring front and 4 link rear with coilovers (stretched to 104")
40" MTRs on 17" beadlocks
Dakota Digital gauges
Redline Land Cruisers cage and fenders
Click to expand...
What axles are you using?
 
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