Cut and Turn: My experience (1 Viewer)

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Maddox , in regards to your ? , the outside edge of the perch remains uncut and sits on the last bit of straight part of tube so just grind inside till it sits level and you are golden.
 
A1 for photography and writeupy, great stuff Trollhole !

(also, did you really weld the left and right perches with your finger ???) :bounce2:


:beer: :beer: :beer:
 
Thanks for all the positive comments. I wanted to try to relay what I was seeing and what was most important. Thank you for the kind words.

Now back to reality. Shock mounts are on and level. When I cut them off orinally Icouldn't get the whole thing so when I installed them back on i ran two beads down the axle tubeand ground them flat for the shock mounts, This gave me stock height. Steering stops were next. I used the knuckle with one bearing to determine the correct placement, Now all I have left is the brake line mounts. And tap a new vent line that will accept a 1/4 inch barbed fitting.
 
JimL said:
A1 for photography and writeupy, great stuff Trollhole !

(also, did you really weld the left and right perches with your finger ???) :bounce2:


:beer: :beer: :beer:

That's my helper Alex. He wanted to point and I wanted to take pictures. A match made in cruiserdom. :flipoff2:
 
Superb thread troll.

This reinforces my decision to cut and turn on my next SOA. Last time I just didn't want to deal with the cutting and reinstalling of all the little parts. Nice to see some closeups of the actual cut where the turn is made too. Nice welds too. Question is how did the heat effect it, I mean did you do it all the way around at once, take little steps letting it cool? Same with the perches? Thanks and nice lookin Cruiser too.
 
HawkDriver said:
Superb thread troll.

This reinforces my decision to cut and turn on my next SOA. Last time I just didn't want to deal with the cutting and reinstalling of all the little parts. Nice to see some closeups of the actual cut where the turn is made too. Nice welds too. Question is how did the heat effect it, I mean did you do it all the way around at once, take little steps letting it cool? Same with the perches? Thanks and nice lookin Cruiser too.


Thank you. I see people talking about heating the ends to get them to turn. Though I did my cold. I don't think heat will affect it. The whole housing it's self is welded together. Though on welding the knuckles I did only wel about two inches then move to the otherside and then come back and rotate just incase.

Pic of the shock mount and steering stops I welded last night.

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Finished up the axle last night.

Welded the brake line mounts. I used the old brake lines as a reference.

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Made sure the brake parts are plugged so no crap gets in them

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Then used the wire wheel on the grinder to clean it up and finally washed it down with brake cleaner to get if completely clean inside and out.

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Then bolted diff on with new gasket and painted. Pretty huh :D

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Next thing is to bolt it back on and install the new stainless steel brake lines. And then measure for the driveshaft so I can get it shortened. That will be tonight. And then hubs tommorow and I should be done.
 
did you *point* your pinion upward? IOW: different than stock which is level?
if so how much?
also, are you using stock springs or did you get new ones? what kind?

great writeup!!!
 
Klunky Chris said:
did you *point* your pinion upward? IOW: different than stock which is level?
if so how much?
also, are you using stock springs or did you get new ones? what kind?

great writeup!!!

Stock Springs

"Back on with the pinion angle set correctly (+14). We also backed this up by installing the diff and lining up the driveshaft. Centered the housing between the springs. Added the new perches with the weight on the front housing and tighten the u-bolts. The weld the new perches enough so when I did the knuckle turn it would hold the housing from turning. I also tacked the bottom perches on at this time."
 
Well it's back together. With new brake lines and all new seals. Pinion points about 1 degree to high but I think it's going to be ok. Drives great. No more wandering and steering is a lot easier. Thanks for everyones input. :D

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nice man, im stoked because i just finished the rear soa and gutted the front axle. i cant wait to get it all back together and test it out. i dont know about you but my rig is huge now, f#$@ jeeps ill run them over
 
Hey Cam where are your pics??? Slacker :flipoff2:

Is that an aqualu arm? Where'd you get it and how much? It's lookin nice and smooth man, good job and seems like you breezed right through it.

Action shots!!
Action shots!!

My old all pics with SOA one with 31's and two with 35's. Yeah it's huge when you get done. Wish i had the pics of the drive way before and after. HUGE :eek: :eek:

That's my bud in the first shot ;) He owns heep wagons :princess: :rolleyes: But havn't seen him for 2 years and he's in Iraq right now :rolleyes: .
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nice pics hawk, you get stuck in that ditch? i know i should be taking pics, if not to post but to remember how things go back together, haha. i get my housing back today i think, wheres kurt? im going to post some poser pics when im finished,

hey troll what shock lengths you go with?
 
you know that is a good question. The PO had already done the SOA when I bought it. All I had to do was the cut and turn (like it was that easy). I'll check when I get home tonight.
 
HawkDriver said:
Hey Cam where are your pics??? Slacker :flipoff2:

Is that an aqualu arm? Where'd you get it and how much? It's lookin nice and smooth man, good job and seems like you breezed right through it.

.

Yep it's a Aqualu.

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Thanks. It's a lot of work doing a cut and turn. The actual cut and turn take maybe 30 min. It's all the other stuff that you have before and after that makes it so time consuming. I'd say it took me 30 hrs start to finish. I now understand why people charge 1500 to 3k to do one. All the mounts and brake lines and knuckles and diff, and knuckles. Did I mention the knuckles? What a pain in the ass if you want them done right. Worth every penny I saved though. And would do it again in 5 years in a heartbeat. :D With the proper tools it is easy. A welder is a must even if it's a crappy one you can tack weld everything and then go take it to someone to finish it up.
 
camcruiser13 said:
i get my housing back today i think, wheres kurt? im going to post some poser pics when im finished,


Is he just doing the cut and turn? Or is he doing all the perches, mounts, and c&t?
 
just the cut and turn, i strip the housing, pain in the ass. i got grease all over the place, hey troll while your measurong your shock you mind measuring your brake lines from axle to from. thanks
 
camcruiser13 said:
nice pics hawk, you get stuck in that ditch? i know i should be taking pics, if not to post but to remember how things go back together, haha. i get my housing back today i think, wheres kurt? im going to post some poser pics when im finished,

hey troll what shock lengths you go with?

Heck no... I crawled right out of that shiite, with a strap and a bronco pulling just a little. ;)

30 hours huh... sounds reasonable. What amp welder you think you could get by with to weld up everything? Did my perches with a 135 and flux wire, it did the trick. Should be able to do everything with it if you do it right. So where'd ya get the arm and how much?
 

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