Builds Cummins R2.8 H151 Swap into 1993 FZJ80 (5 Viewers)

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I get the feeling like you know something that I do not. I believe the number I put one my intake was the number that came up on japan-parts.eu.

Spill the beans!


:lol:

17801-61030: washable/reusable element.
17801-66030: same filter as above but non-washable/reusable
17801-68020: different filter element, generally spec'ed for non-US diesel engines. Dark brown element color. Probably soaked in some type of oil to collect dirt (at least it feels and smells that way).
 
Well I have the cummins MAF downstream so I cannot run an oiled filter. But a non-oiled washable filter would be great.

So 17801-61030 is the winner? Where did you ever find this info?
 
so Is this something youre just making for yourself, or are you going to build this as a kit to sell?

I thought of my 80 when this motor came out, but assumed, correctly by the looks of it, that it would be extremely hard.
 
Are you interested in a kit?
I put this project on the back burner for awhile as I just moved out of state and dont have a workspace any longer.
There are two remaining things that need to be done to make a good kit I think.
A custom AC compressor fitting which will make AC hose installation super easy and a toothed wheel that will allow use of the 1hd tach. I have had it with this dakota digital s***, I dony fully understand everything about the system so it could be that there is a problem with electrical interference from the 80 series harness. Nobody can figure it out so in the garbage it goes. With this solution the redline will be in the correct spot and should function as OEM. I am sure that the needle does not dip on a hdj80, anything less than perfection is not acceptable.

Its a nice driving setup overall, when its all done and tested i'll post about a full kit here on mud and maybe there will be some interest.
 
First update in a long time. I am trying to get the ball rolling again by trying to cross off a simple thing from the list.

Long long ago there was some drama about the AC system, now i'm in Texas so this thing is an absolute must.

Many hours of searching netted zero adapters from any established AC companies. I sourced some adapters from TorFab. I would say the quality is more or less acceptable, one of the fitting is not very good. The pictures do not show this very well.



These fittings don't work very well using the factory airbox. I am trying to come up with something that will point the charging ports in a direction that will require no part removal for basic AC service. Yes I know I could put the discharge port in a splice joint but i'm not a fan of splice joints.

I am working on this right now. I was never able to find a true diagram of the AC fitting dimensions, there are some details that are hard to measure.



 
On an unrelated side note, can someone check the pulsar gear in their 1HD/1HZ injection pump? I need to know how many teeth it has so I can design a pulsar gear that will give the correct number of pulses per engine revolution to drive my diesel tach.

Anyone got thread specs on the sensor?
 
If anyone is in the market for offroad only tuning for the little R2.8, I suggest you find the delete king on facebook. He can help you out with your tuning solutions.
 
I had a free hour today, I was able to finally remove the EGR crap from my engine. All I can say is wow, so much more space now. I really should have started with this and then did my adapter mock up, the engine would be back 1.5 inches more right now. I was not up to speed on diesel tuning at the beginning of this project, but now I know the basics.

I seem to have lost my exhaust manifold plug during my move to Texas so I will need to get a new one, oops!



Removing the coolant lines for the EGR cooler would be really hard, so I just installed a silicone u bend tube to complete the flow path.


Glad to be rid of this mess



 
Small update finally. Got some custom AC fittings done, these are nice, a lot better than anything else that is available at the moment.

This should allow for a nice routing of the AC hoses for any 80 series swap, even ones with dual batteries.




I wish things were moving faster but things are what they are.
 
Anyone in DFW know where to get AC lines crimped?
 
Does anyone have an obd1 airbox top off of a FZJ80?

I cut mine up while doing some R and D that did not pan out too well.

I am looking for a replacement.
 
Thank you for that suggestion. I got many PMs from fellow mudders and I have arranged the shipment of a nice part already. I should be able to get it installed in the next several weeks.
 
Finally got something crossed off the list today. I was able to use my new AC line crimper and finish my AC lines.

I got this unit off of Amazon for about 150 bucks.


Since I would have to take a day of vacation to get this done by a 9-5 type shop I figured I atleast broke even on the purchase and will be able to do line work in the future as needed. The crimper works well when clamped in a vice, I guess the true test will be when the system is pressurized. It does not quite give OEM quality crimps but it is very close. As y'all can see in this picture it does not quite close the crimp collar against the hose. I bet the OEM's use a second operation to get that lip to seat against the hose. Anyone know?

Here are some pictures of the hoses ready to be installed.





Something to consider when doing this. The crimping of the lines will change the length of the hose a little but. For short lines this is a PITA. I would suggest to crimp one fitting on and then mock up the hose trimming as needed while test fitting the second fitting, perhaps making it just a touch short on purpose. My suction line is not very flexible and its a tad too long, it will induce extra stress on the AC evaporator connection. Maybe if I can find the correct dies I will redo that line with the thin wall hose that is more flexible.

Installed...



Also got the air intake system done. As I mentioned I hacked up my airbox top, that was a mistake. Anyway I sourced a used unit and went to work with the necessary modifications. Basically just removing those little brackets for the resonator box that the 1FZ used. It just makes it easier to install, I plugged the hose with mcmaster carr panel plugs to keep dust out. I really like using the stock air filter box, keeping the toyota filtration system will ensure many years of clean engine performance and it used the factory filter which can be sourced easily. I wish it did not cover the sound of the turbo so much but you can't have it all.







I think the nest thing to do will be increase engine performance a bit and try to install a diesel tachometer. This dakota digital box cannot drive the toyota tach very well.
 

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