Builds Cummins R2.8 H151 Swap into 1993 FZJ80

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I guess a small update is in order.

I am working on a desmog setup for this engine. I just have not been able to get the custom intake to play nice with the MAF sensor so the s*** is coming off. Just to recap, the MAF basically controls EGR input and that is what makes my engine run like s***. There is a pedal dance procedure that cummins has outlined to re-calibrate the system, but with my custom throttle setup it does not work, most likely that is my fault due to my custom throttle setup. Truth be told I swapped back to the cummins pedal assembly and it still did not work, I even moved the TPS with a screwdriver and bad my wife count off with a stop watch. I bet I took 50k miles off of my engine by having it hit redline before there was oil to the bearings, what a stupid ****ing idea.

I am working with a local tuner who currently has the ECM and is doing some tweeks as we speak. I designed some nice block off plates to allow for the removal of this god awful mess. If you remember back to the beginning of this process, it was the EGR that ruined the installation of this engine in the 80 series. They literally could not make it worse than they did, I suppose it would be great for a cab over style truck but not for a normal vehicle.

Had I done this initially I could have moved the engine back another 1.5'', then the adapter would look much more presentable.


Here is the intake block off, I designed in a little "dot" to serve as a guide in case someone wanted to drill and tap it for a boost gauge. This is 6061 Alum as you can prolly tell.



On the exhaust side I used some 0.25'' thick 304 stainless. Just look at all that new real estate. What an improvement. I should have done this months ago, but many searches turned up nothing for R2.8 tuning. I know I will get the "I told ya so" speech from at least one member on here.



 
Does anyone have a working woofer amp that would be willing to part with?
This would be Toyota PN 86280-60010, its located in the RHS rear quarter panel.

Every speaker except my subwoofer is working fine, I have deleted my factory amp, the one that is by the glovebox. I am running a double DIN pioneer head unit.

Anyone got suggestions for a replacement subwoofer, one that does not require any mods to the oem trim or grill.
 
Does anyone have a working woofer amp that would be willing to part with?
This would be Toyota PN 86280-60010, its located in the RHS rear quarter panel.

Every speaker except my subwoofer is working fine, I have deleted my factory amp, the one that is by the glovebox. I am running a double DIN pioneer head unit.

Anyone got suggestions for a replacement subwoofer, one that does not require any mods to the oem trim or grill.
I don't know the 80 audio system that well, but I'd bet you killed the signal feed to the OEM sub when you removed the factory amp up front.

I can look to see if I still have a factory sub amp, but I usually toss them as soon as I take them out. If I do have one, it's yours for the cost of shipping.

But, I like the bracket/powered sub that @I Lean has... (I'm partial, because I have the same bracket but with a Cerwin Vega 10" VPAS10 sub) and it sounds eleventy billion times better than the OEM junk. It's nothing an audiophile would rave about, but it does give a much fuller sound for very little $$$.
 
From the wiring diagram I don't see why the factory sub amp would not work with an aftermarket head unit. In any case I have 3 different oem amps and non work, so in the garbage they go. I spliced into the wiring connector and installed a fifth full range speaker in the way back, now the third row occupants will get some tunes.
 
This crappy video shows what happens when I remove the 12' lead to the tach and replace it with a 2' lead. I moved the DSL1-E unit to the LHS kick panel area so the tach lead is about 2'-3' instead of 12', should be good to go now.

Mine dips for a second when I turn on the signal. I just live with it.
 
I finally got some videos taken, I hope the audio is good so you can hear what it sounds like.

I have to live with the check engine light for the time being due to the maf and egr not being installed. I am trying to figure out a workaround for these issues, due to cost I think it will have to wait a few months.





I need to get someone to help me do a driving video, that will come soon.

As of today the powertrain seems to work fine, no leaks to report. Vibrations are much worse than the 1FZ engine, I guess I expected that. Its pretty obvious the engine is running when its at idle, at cruising speeds it does not bother me. After I get the ECM tuning I will move on to fixing the body problems with this vehicle, which mainly include crappy paint, dry weatherstripping and electric window problems.
 
Mine dips for a second when I turn on the signal. I just live with it.
I can't live with such things, they just bother the hell out of me. Not sure what exactly you have done to your rigs electrical system but I have a few observations to share with the forum.

For those of us who also did a manual trans swap and tried to follow the factory h151 wiring scheme it appears to me that the reverse lights run off of the gauge fuse, which is the same circuit supplying power to your tachometer. Putting trans into reverse made by far the biggest blip for me.

Tach blips only with left or right turn signal, not with hazzard lights turned on, this I cannot explain. We need an EE to chime in on this one I think. I don't understand why the 1FZ tach became so sensitive with its powered by the dakota digital dsl1-e unit, perhaps its the problem? I powered the dsl1-e directly from the battery and it had no affect.

I did seem to fix the problem by installing a relay that provides a direct current path from the alternator to the back of the tach, be sure to put a non conducting washer to isolate the screw on the back of the tach from that printed circuit board thing (If you dont it will keep your heater controls on after key is removed). I went to the white wire in the fuse box, located to the left of the steering wheel, took it after a fuse and voila, no more problems. Just really need the relay to turn circuit off when key is off. I tried doing this on the switched circuits in the same fuse box, the blip did not go away. Again, where are the EE's on the forum?

Next time I am getting a 1HZ tach and designing a toothed wheel for the cummins, these converter boxes just suck.
 
I like it! Love the center console
 
Mine only does it when I initially turn on the signal. It works fine if the signal is left on. I barely notice it because most times I hit the turn signal I'm looking in the mirror, over my shoulder, or around a corner. I'd have to study the wiring diagram for a while to figure it out. You could monitor tach voltage waveform and see if it drops when the turn signal is activated.
 
Mine only does it when I initially turn on the signal. It works fine if the signal is left on. I barely notice it because most times I hit the turn signal I'm looking in the mirror, over my shoulder, or around a corner. I'd have to study the wiring diagram for a while to figure it out. You could monitor tach voltage waveform and see if it drops when the turn signal is activated.
Could you refresh my memory on your build?
Mine would also only blip on the first blink of the turn signal. However since I have the h151 with the reverse lights on the 10A Gauge circuit if I put in reverse and then turn on the blinker I get a very large blip followed by a series of smaller blips that correspond with each turn signal flash.

I don't have any sophisticated electrical equipment but I fixed the problem.
 
I have got the blip also. I am on my second DD box. First one started with a bouncy tach when cold and then later on it would peg the needle all the way right when I applied the brakes. I then got the newer box and only get a blip at random times.
I also get a blip at 60mph with the DD speedo box.
 
I have got the blip also. I am on my second DD box. First one started with a bouncy tach when cold and then later on it would peg the needle all the way right when I applied the brakes. I then got the newer box and only get a blip at random times.
I also get a blip at 60mph with the DD speedo box.
What I am hearing is that the Dakota Digital stuff is junk. Now I am not even going to try and fix it, I will wait until the next time I pull the dash trim and a 1HZ tach will go in. No more good money after bad, I have had the dash apart atleast 5 times trying to make that pos work like it should.
 
Now I have a non-powertrain problem for the experts on here. Even before I did the swap I had a leak somewhere in the sunroof, right over my head to make it worse. The headliner would be wet between the edge of the sunroof and the grab handle above the drivers door, then it would run town the A-pillar to the other grab handle.

Now being October in Michigan we are getting lots of rain. So today I got curious and tried to figure this out. Before anyone asks I did already verify that the drain tubes are free and clear.

Here is a picture of the main affected zone

I made this little video while sitting in my driveway during a nice soft rain.


Here is the Northwest drain tube connection


I took a gallon of water up topside when the sunroof was open and played around a little.
I found this little squishey foam thing, it appears to be the source of the leak, allowing water to flow from the exterior part of the tray into a non waterproof area where its free to drip down onto your head.


For clarity i'm talking about the thing circled in red


I cannot seem to repair this with the sunroof in the vehicle, does anyone have any tricks?
Since this most likely means a headliner removal does anyone have a line on replacement headliners? Mine is not in the best of shape, i'm sure I will ruin it when I remove it.

How about sources for a replacement sunroof? Any good ones out there?
 
Rather than replacing the headliner with a similar to OEM cloth with bows that gets glued in, I would want to use the 95+ OEM versions that are more of a preformed semi-hard shell. Using that requires also replacing the A&B pillar trim pieces, may be more. There is a thread documenting this where @cruiserdan lists the components required.
 
Your still assuming you can find one of these, I have doubts about that. And I have seen what sells for a 5 star quality used part here on mud, frankly I am not impressed.

If all parts can be had new than were in business.
 
Having to take a bit of a pause on my build due to some job relocation issues. I have been working on a new intake design that should fix my MAF issues since I have no choice but to keep the emission crap.
Be warned, do not purchase EFI Live Cummins HD tuner, it will not allow you to modify these things. All in the name of helping me to follow laws in a country foreign to EFI Live. Sure glad a requested a demo file first, what a joke.


I cooked up this little part, and put the common filter and belt numbers on it so they are easy to find in an autozone parking lot.



What do y'all think?
 
Having to take a bit of a pause on my build due to some job relocation issues. I have been working on a new intake design that should fix my MAF issues since I have no choice but to keep the emission crap.
Be warned, do not purchase EFI Live Cummins HD tuner, it will not allow you to modify these things. All in the name of helping me to follow laws in a country foreign to EFI Live. Sure glad a requested a demo file first, what a joke.


I cooked up this little part, and put the common filter and belt numbers on it so they are easy to find in an autozone parking lot.



What do y'all think?

That’s a really cool reference tool.

Why did you choose 17801-66030 vs 17801-61030 (beyond any economic factors)? Or, 17801-68020?
 
That’s a really cool reference tool.

Why did you choose 17801-66030 vs 17801-61030 (beyond any economic factors)? Or, 17801-68020?
I get the feeling like you know something that I do not. I believe the number I put one my intake was the number that came up on japan-parts.eu.

Spill the beans!
 

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