For a 80 I would definitely use the 1HDT , I have a H151 5speed listed for sale right now in the classifieds here .
Builds Cummins R2.8 H151 Swap into 1993 FZJ80 (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter PurpleFJ62
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #442
Nobody got any info on that injection pump gear?
- Thread starter
- #443
Small update for y'all.
I found a pdf version of the 1HDT WSM online, inside it has a nice exploded view of the injection pump. In that diagram you can count the teeth on the flyweight holder, which from my understanding is what the revolution sensor reads.
My eyes count 23 teeth on that part. Given that this gear I am working on will go on the crankshaft I have opted to put 11 teeth on my part. Since I will bump up my low idle speed a bit to help with the 4 cylinder shakes I wanted the tach to read a bit low instead of a little high, just to not annoy me as much.
Finished part should look like this. I hope my dimensions are accurate. Trying to measure the engine while installed in the vehicle with all the crap in the away was not easy.
Goal is to get the mechanical parts installed and then swap tachs when I can find a 1HD/1HZ tach and at that time replace all the bulbs in my gauge cluster. I should have these parts done and installed by the end of the month.
I found a pdf version of the 1HDT WSM online, inside it has a nice exploded view of the injection pump. In that diagram you can count the teeth on the flyweight holder, which from my understanding is what the revolution sensor reads.
My eyes count 23 teeth on that part. Given that this gear I am working on will go on the crankshaft I have opted to put 11 teeth on my part. Since I will bump up my low idle speed a bit to help with the 4 cylinder shakes I wanted the tach to read a bit low instead of a little high, just to not annoy me as much.
Finished part should look like this. I hope my dimensions are accurate. Trying to measure the engine while installed in the vehicle with all the crap in the away was not easy.
Goal is to get the mechanical parts installed and then swap tachs when I can find a 1HD/1HZ tach and at that time replace all the bulbs in my gauge cluster. I should have these parts done and installed by the end of the month.
- Thread starter
- #444
Small update for y'all. I was finally able to install my new tach parts, still waiting on the tach however. No word on when that will be there.
Overall the parts fit together quite well, better than I expected for having some most of the measuring on my back with a straight edge and a pair of calipers.
I have about 0.030'' of clearance between the tip of the sensor and the pulsar gear, that was not torqued, so after torquing that value will change, but I am very close so that feels good.
Here is the R2.8 front pulley / harmonic balancer.
This small disk keeps the pulley concentric, I replicated this geometry on my part as you will see.
Here is the pulley
This gives you more or less an idea of what it will look like when bolted together.
This little stub slips right into a hole in the snout of the crankshaft to provide the centering. This made things super easy, no special tapered bolts or conical washers were needed. The crank pulley is keyed on the cummins because it has the crank angle sensor built into it but this in no way effected my part.
Longer bolts were needed, fine thread too! I could not find any plated ones so its black oxide for now. I think they are M12x1.25, anyone got a lead on some plated ones?
Here it is installed, not much drama here.
Here is the arm of the bracket that holds the Toyota sensor that typically goes in the injection pump
Built in supports for the power steering hose and the oil filter lines.
Once the used tacho get here should be able to hook it for a trial run.
Overall the parts fit together quite well, better than I expected for having some most of the measuring on my back with a straight edge and a pair of calipers.
I have about 0.030'' of clearance between the tip of the sensor and the pulsar gear, that was not torqued, so after torquing that value will change, but I am very close so that feels good.
Here is the R2.8 front pulley / harmonic balancer.
This small disk keeps the pulley concentric, I replicated this geometry on my part as you will see.
Here is the pulley
This gives you more or less an idea of what it will look like when bolted together.
This little stub slips right into a hole in the snout of the crankshaft to provide the centering. This made things super easy, no special tapered bolts or conical washers were needed. The crank pulley is keyed on the cummins because it has the crank angle sensor built into it but this in no way effected my part.
Longer bolts were needed, fine thread too! I could not find any plated ones so its black oxide for now. I think they are M12x1.25, anyone got a lead on some plated ones?
Here it is installed, not much drama here.
Here is the arm of the bracket that holds the Toyota sensor that typically goes in the injection pump
Built in supports for the power steering hose and the oil filter lines.
Once the used tacho get here should be able to hook it for a trial run.
i would see if @cruiserdan or @Onur may have a line on a bolt with pn if you know how long you need, im pretty sure between the both of them they have memorized every toyota parts catalogue
Hey PurpleFJ62,
Thanks for sending me the link to your build, amazing work! I'm glad you have a diesel now!
If you ever want an original one give me a shout. But that cummins is sweet!
ToyotaDyna
-------
Looking for a Diesel, LHD Landcruiser?
Canarian Land Cruiser Exports • DIESEL • LHD
Thanks for sending me the link to your build, amazing work! I'm glad you have a diesel now!
If you ever want an original one give me a shout. But that cummins is sweet!
ToyotaDyna
-------
Looking for a Diesel, LHD Landcruiser?
Canarian Land Cruiser Exports • DIESEL • LHD
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #447
Time for a not so good update. Got rear ended last week.
I need some input from other 80 series folks on here on how to best go about fixing this. Keep in mind that I no longer have access to a welder or an air compressor, so welding an i-beam on the back is not really an option.
Has anyone tried to get that chassis cross member from toyota? I know that if the old one can be removed a new one could be installed easily.
I need some input from other 80 series folks on here on how to best go about fixing this. Keep in mind that I no longer have access to a welder or an air compressor, so welding an i-beam on the back is not really an option.
Has anyone tried to get that chassis cross member from toyota? I know that if the old one can be removed a new one could be installed easily.
Delta VS
Supporting Vendor
Time for a not so good update. Got rear ended last week.
I need some input from other 80 series folks on here on how to best go about fixing this. Keep in mind that I no longer have access to a welder or an air compressor, so welding an i-beam on the back is not really an option.
Has anyone tried to get that chassis cross member from toyota? I know that if the old one can be removed a new one could be installed easily.
5120960111
- Thread starter
- #450
Has anyone cut one of these out before. Can someone recommend a small cutting tool to get to the welds that are under the body.
I figure the body mounts will have to be loosened to get some working space.
I figure the body mounts will have to be loosened to get some working space.
- Thread starter
- #451
Well I have finally removed that crossmember. Not a very easy job! I have not yet been able to grind flush the welds on the top of the chassis under the body. I don't have a tool that can get in there and I don't have enough floor jack to lift the body up enough to make a difference, even with 18'' of wood stacked on top.
I was not expecting a sawzall to be the weapon of choice on something like this but it worked great, I did go through about 20 bucks worth of blades! I was able to do the extraction and do zero damage to the body which was really what I was shooting for.
I got shielding gas for my welder, so all that is left to do is to get the new part and weld it in. I will have to make an extension cord to get from the laundry room to the driveway, I suspect that will set me back about 300 bucks. I got no idea what 75 feet of 8-4 cable costs at home depot. Maybe 10-4 will work, not sure. Going to have to do a little investigation into that.
Some pics of the job, I had to cut it out in a bunch of pieces to keep the blade going in a safe direction. All in all i'd say it took about 4 hours to get it out after you get the bumper s*** off and the spare tire out.
An important reference mark that I will need when I stitch the new one in.
This DeWalt sawzall is badass, well chew through just about anything.
After the accident there was a tremendous amount of stored spring energy in the crossmember, at one point I had three blades stuck in it. Too pissed off at that point to stop and take a picutre, funny how that always works.
Scrap metal!
The exposed welds were super easy to cut out.
LHS, did an o.k. not touching the paint in most areas, but as you can see there was some damage. Anyone know what chassis paint will match up?
I was not expecting a sawzall to be the weapon of choice on something like this but it worked great, I did go through about 20 bucks worth of blades! I was able to do the extraction and do zero damage to the body which was really what I was shooting for.
I got shielding gas for my welder, so all that is left to do is to get the new part and weld it in. I will have to make an extension cord to get from the laundry room to the driveway, I suspect that will set me back about 300 bucks. I got no idea what 75 feet of 8-4 cable costs at home depot. Maybe 10-4 will work, not sure. Going to have to do a little investigation into that.
Some pics of the job, I had to cut it out in a bunch of pieces to keep the blade going in a safe direction. All in all i'd say it took about 4 hours to get it out after you get the bumper s*** off and the spare tire out.
An important reference mark that I will need when I stitch the new one in.
This DeWalt sawzall is badass, well chew through just about anything.
After the accident there was a tremendous amount of stored spring energy in the crossmember, at one point I had three blades stuck in it. Too pissed off at that point to stop and take a picutre, funny how that always works.
Scrap metal!
The exposed welds were super easy to cut out.
LHS, did an o.k. not touching the paint in most areas, but as you can see there was some damage. Anyone know what chassis paint will match up?
- Thread starter
- #452
- Thread starter
- #453
Got new cross member installed today.
Hard to get the welder into a few of these spots. Shoulda pulled the body off the chassis, one day I'll get that lift.
Hard to get the welder into a few of these spots. Shoulda pulled the body off the chassis, one day I'll get that lift.
- Thread starter
- #454
Got the fender flares put back on, I really wish Toyota did not plaster their vehicles with all this extra s***. So many seals and hidden fasteners to worry about.
Sanding down the lip from the P.O.s crappy paint job did exactly what I needed it to. Having a nice smooth surface allows the flare seals to not bunch up when the flares are bolted on. I will live with the results, overall I would say the paint is a 5-6 out of 10 but the cost to repaint it correctly is immense.
Any time you are doing fender flare work make sure to get a bag of these, very handy!
Some overall shots of the rig now.
As a funny side note, I had a real hard time getting the old flares off and ended up using a hammer from the inside. Well I have been looking for that hammer for a long time and it turns out that it was right where I left it.
I don't think I will put much more effort into the paint with the possible exception of a bit of wet sanding and buffing. Next up will be locating a few door trim parts, not sure where I am going to find anything better than what I already have. When people say things are in excellent condition that is a bit of an overstatement generally. I need a LHS front door trim piece in leather (grey), I will keep my eyes on the classifieds but I need to dial back spending for awhile.
Sanding down the lip from the P.O.s crappy paint job did exactly what I needed it to. Having a nice smooth surface allows the flare seals to not bunch up when the flares are bolted on. I will live with the results, overall I would say the paint is a 5-6 out of 10 but the cost to repaint it correctly is immense.
Any time you are doing fender flare work make sure to get a bag of these, very handy!
Some overall shots of the rig now.
As a funny side note, I had a real hard time getting the old flares off and ended up using a hammer from the inside. Well I have been looking for that hammer for a long time and it turns out that it was right where I left it.
I don't think I will put much more effort into the paint with the possible exception of a bit of wet sanding and buffing. Next up will be locating a few door trim parts, not sure where I am going to find anything better than what I already have. When people say things are in excellent condition that is a bit of an overstatement generally. I need a LHS front door trim piece in leather (grey), I will keep my eyes on the classifieds but I need to dial back spending for awhile.
- Thread starter
- #455
Replaced one of the vapor barriers. This was a lot easier than I thought.
New plastic is available from Toyota for a very reasonable price.
New plastic is available from Toyota for a very reasonable price.
- Thread starter
- #456
I am going to post a thread in the classified section soon. Perhaps someone has a line on one of these interior trim panels.
I need a LHS front door trim panel just like the one pictured below. Has to be clean and the backing material cannot be torn.
I need a LHS front door trim panel just like the one pictured below. Has to be clean and the backing material cannot be torn.
hey bro nice work i just spend arrond 6 or 7 hours reading averything on detail hahahaha. I can see that you made by your self. I dont have those skills and knoledge. I am from ecuador and i have a FJ80 with the 3f carb and it burns gas tooooo much. was looking for a R2.8 swap but i can see that you went thru alot of problems. My primary question is does it woth the problems and the cost ? or just buy another car or bike for daily driving and keep may fj80 for a weekender rig for the gas millage.
- Thread starter
- #458
Small amount of progress today. Designing a new clasp to hold my AC fittings onto the compressor.
My first design leaked. Rule of thumb, remove the compressor to measure stuff!!
My first design leaked. Rule of thumb, remove the compressor to measure stuff!!
- Thread starter
- #459
Can you get the R2.8 in Ecuador?
The Toyota diesel bolts in and is a smooth six cylinder, I would go that route if you want a diesel.
As you can imagine either route costs a lot of money.
Share some pictures of the rigs from Ecuador!!
alia176
SILVER Star
These types of projects are rarely "worth the cost". People do it for the challenge and therapy. It's better than playing golf and might be cheaper than going to the strip clubs. Cheap, as in you're not going go through a divorce
The answer to your second question is ALWAYS going to be a YES! Leave your 80 alone and enjoy it for camping and wheeling then get a more economical transportation for going to work and such. You'll be money ahead as well as time. Remember, these projects eat up a LOT of time, which can be spent making memories with your family on trips.
Just my .02 centavos worth.
