Builds Cummins R2.8 H151 Swap into 1993 FZJ80 (1 Viewer)

[scottryana]

When they first hit the market they were only like 140hp and 267ft/lbs of torque, but there was basically zero market desire so Cummins came out with a new tune recently taking it to 161hp and 310ft/lbs. There are a few companies pushing the limits and they have bearing problems around 180-200hp and 380-400ft/lbs.

Does the 2.8 have more power than the 1hdt?

 

[Dragos80]

I think we have a lot of work for you here.
You are probably the man to approach a solve a very old issue here a lot of members have pondered.
A 5 or 6 speed Toyota tranny swap into a LC80.
We primarily lack adapters for the newer tranny 750/760.
Somebody else here said he would look into a package deal but most likely sometime in the next two decades.

We have done some research into this matter and have documented what the preferences are.

 

[Dragos80]

When they first hit the market they were only like 140hp and 267ft/lbs of torque, but there was basically zero market desire so Cummins came out with a new tune recently taking it to 161hp and 310ft/lbs. There are a few companies pushing the limits and they have bearing problems around 180-200hp and 380-400ft/lbs.

M57 can run on in stock form at 360-380 HP and 500 lb/ft out of 3.0L 6 cyl.

 

[scottryana]

So can a 2JZ, but we are talking about the 2.8L Cummins.

M57 can run on in stock form at 360-380 HP and 500 lb/ft out of 3.0L 6 cyl.

 

[Dragos80]

He mentioned BMW diesel, but defaulted to the inferior R28 due to some warranty reasons and thinking it is cheaper.

 

[Kaninja]

He mentioned BMW diesel, but defaulted to the inferior R28 due to some warranty reasons and thinking it is cheaper.

And the R28 being less unobtanium. Not sure if you have had to pay for BMW parts, but it sucks. This is why so many thousands of BMW'S end up on a used car lot 1 mile/day out of warranty.

 

[Dragos80]

I have 178,600 reasons so far to go with M57 and some supporting arguments too... like 350hp/480tq for the past 7 years.

467lbs and EPA approved since it was sold here in US.
That sorry excuse for a diesel Toyota made in the form of a V8 cannot be installed on a road legal car here in US anyway.



44 for sale only on Ebay.
Really hard to find?

bmw diesel engine | eBay

 

[Kaninja]

I have 178,600 reasons so far to go with M57 and some supporting arguments too... like 350hp/480tq for the past 7 years.

467lbs and EPA approved since it was sold here in US.
That sorry excuse for a diesel Toyota made in the form of a V8 cannot be installed on a road legal car here in US anyway.



44 for sale only on Ebay.
Really hard to find?

bmw diesel engine | eBay

I change my mind. Is the swap relatively straightforward?

MPG looks great as well.

 

[Dragos80]

Just in case you guys missed it. Read the first page again.

Some other engines that were considered along the way were the Cummins 4bt and ISB 3.9, both excellent engines but not the best for the 80 series. The 1hd and 1hdft from Toyota, and the M57 from BMW.

Turns out that in Eastern Europe the M57 is the diesel engine of choice for Nissan Patrols, these things are absolutely kick ass, but very much like the toyota diesels, very hard to find here in the states. I just have this mental block to putting down 8,000 dollars on a used engine from half way around the world, every used item I have bought has ended up costing more in the end then just buying new. So I went with the R2.8 since it could be had new and with a warranty, I might get lucky and get to fire it up before its expired even!!

Maybe someone on here will get lucky and find a clean M57 diesel, I would love to do a build with one of these in the future. Search for fastmotion.eu on google, they are even installing BMW diesels in boats over there.

 

[Kaninja]

I think we can focus on the thread title at this point.

Back on topic.......@PurpleFJ62 are you upgrading the alternator to the available 200A unit?

 

[Rock40]

Nate, it's looking REAL good. For your diesel filler tube, you can carefully take a stepped drill bit and simply drill it out/enlarge it. I was able to get the fill tube disconnected from the main tank by undoing the small flex gasket under the truck. After I modified the fill port, I just flushed all the metal drill shavings out really well and reinstalled it. The only other option is sourcing a used one from Canada or overseas.

 

[PurpleFJ62]

How many inches do you think the motor could be moved further towards the firewall with all the EGR crap removed?

After a quick look at the engine bay I would say roughly 1 to 1.25 inches. The EGR valve could not be in a worse spot, and the EGR crossover tube does not help either.

 

[PurpleFJ62]

DUDE!!!!


Where the hell have you been?

M57? I've been bugging a lot of people about that swap.

They are available and relatively cheap too. Ebay usually has some for sale, second or third hand cars are really cheap too (3 series that is).

Here is just an example. You can buy a whole car for that much money actually and sell everything else to recoup your investment.
I got a diesel 3 series and a TLC80. Both are in great shape though. This has been a dream for me for a long time.

View attachment 1863357

I share your admiration for the M57 diesel. It does make more horsepower and torque than the R2.8, and the twin turbo one could actually turn the 80 series into something fun to drive. That being said, last spring when I was looking for an engine ebay motors did have a few available. All long blocks with unknown history and zero electronics, this was the killer for me. A long block is a long block, can always be reworked by your local machine shop, but all the doodads needed to get the thing to run, I decided against that.

Next time i'll find a 335D, if I ever do this again.

 

[PurpleFJ62]

Nate, it's looking REAL good. For your diesel filler tube, you can carefully take a stepped drill bit and simply drill it out/enlarge it. I was able to get the fill tube disconnected from the main tank by undoing the small flex gasket under the truck. After I modified the fill port, I just flushed all the metal drill shavings out really well and reinstalled it. The only other option is sourcing a used one from Canada or overseas.

Thanks for the tip! If you will willing to remove it can you actually drill spot welds to make the end product look factory? I am a bit OCD about things.

On a side note, I have not began to cover the wiring aspect of things at this point but that slick H151/t-case harness is no longer available from Japan 4x4. Looks like I am going to have to make my own.

 

[PurpleFJ62]

that crankshaft adapter is pretty long and handling a lot of weight it will be really hard to balance everything that way at high RPM bolts will be at a lot of stress

I like to think of this is a big experiment, its the only way I can sleep at night. If there are problems then I guess I will have to deal with them. While designing the adapter hub I used a healthy safety factor. I did an FEA analysis for 500 ft-lbs, with the goal to be keeping stress and deflection in check.

 

[MDJ]

Subscribed for sure. This is exactly what this platform needs right now, if you ask me. A fresh take on a diesel option. Excited to see it progress!

 

[PurpleFJ62]

Today I removed the entire driveline. I am going to assemble it out on the floor with the intention of building a supplemental wiring harness on it that will simply plug into the cruiser dash harness.

The transmission harness on a USDM FZJ80 has a lot of extra wires in it, since the OEM H151 harness is NLA I think it just makes sense to trim down the A442 harness to suit out needs.

We will need however to get a few little items from Mr.T. I have these on order so dont take the following as fact until I actually put it all together...

• H151 Back-up light connector 90980-11051
• Two repair wires 82998-12440

This is what we need to hook into

Sometimes these pop up on ebay, I just found one for like 8 bucks! With pins and seals also!
Toyota Supra 2jz-gte 2-pin Reverse Switch Connector Plug Clip Kit 2jzgte | eBay

There is only one wire that is different in the EC1 connector between the A442F and the H151, we can use this wire instead of having that nasty circular connection. This will make for a nice clean wiring job. The wire in question is in EC1 pin 5, its Yellow-Red and it goes to the A/T fluid temp sensor. Currently it goes to the Combination meter, but we will take care of that further on down the line.

This is the AT temp wire that goes to the combination meter

This is the A442 harness completly stripped and laied out on the H151, no modifications necessary here.

General routing scheme, should have added a threaded boss to hold the connector, oops!

Now hopefully an expert on here can chime in and help me solve this puzzle
Obviously I am not the original owner of my rig, and as you would expect it has its share of problems. Here is a perfect example of the typical hack job to expect when you buy used cars.

Can someone chime in and set the record straight in regards to the breather line routing. How about the H151 breather, anyone know where it goes? I could extend it and mount it on the engine.

Not sure what standard practice is for the t-case shifter, but this is an OEM rod that is much shorter than the one that comes on the A442 trucks. It seems to work ok with the A442 shifter base. The part number escapes me at the moment.

EDIT: See post 254 for complete info on getting back up lights to work, proceed with caution.

 

[PurpleFJ62]

Here are some pics to give an idea of what the entire beast looks like assembled. I wonder how many people in the world have something like this in their barn?

Thats it for today, i'm beat.

 

[GSTMike]

Great project and workmanship!

 

[Kaninja]

Here are some pics to give an idea of what the entire beast looks like assembled. I wonder how many people in the world have something like this in their barn?

I think you are in very select company.

Seeing it all together really is awesome.