"Crank-but-no-start"/"loss of throttle" turned into "Barely Even Cranks problem" (2 Viewers)

[2000LandCruiser01]

Fairly new user (came across the site when I had to replace the barrel ignition rod and found some helpful posts/links) and I am at my wits' end.

My problem seems to have morphed from the "intermittent crank-but-won't-start/loss of throttle" problem into a "car has trouble even cranking at this point". Below is what I'm dealing with - any help appreciated.

History of problem:

• (2023-11-06): (Likely unrelated but worth mentioning) Filled up with “suspiciously inexpensive” gas.
• (2023-11-06): Car started pulling out of gas station; no problems
• (2023-11-06): Next startup, not 20 min later, started fine, kinda “chugged” for a minute below normal RPMs (just sounded off in general) and engine stopped
• (2023-11-06): Wouldn’t restart —> towed to shop —> shop was able to start with gas pedal floored
• (2023-11-07): Took car from shop, everything seemed fine. Life is good.
• (2023-11-11): Driving a few days later, lost the throttle. Pulled to side of road, started up immediately/on first try, continued day.
• (roughly 2023-11-15): Some days later, car cranked but wouldn’t start at home. Stayed like that for a few days.
• CEL is on at this point.
• (2023-11-16): Pulled out/checked EFI and ECU fuse (both looked good), put back in and the car starts no problem.
• (2023-11-16): Car appears to be idling perfectly at ~1000 rpms, take a little drive around the neighborhood with not problems.
• (2023-11-16): Turn off car and try to start again. Doesn't start. Try the "pull out and put back in EFI/ECU fuses" move that worked previously and
• car still doesn't start and hasn't started since.
• ( 2023-11-30 ): Tried using starter fluid, sounded like it really wanted to turn over but still didn't start.
• ( 2023-11-30 ): Car now has trouble cranking, much less starting.

The current status of things/what I've checked:

• with key in On position:
  • security light is **not** on
  • CEL is on, although no codes are coming up on this scanner I bought.
• Cleaned the throttle body.
• Checked APPS - looks good.
• Checked Fuel Pump & Sender Gauge Connector - looks good.

 

[Trapper50cal]

Well, I'm sure I can't answer the question entirely but I can give you a direction to look...
Check this fuse in the driver kick panel location...I think all the ones you mentioned were in the engine bay block assembly box.

If your Lexus LX470 or Land Cruiser is dying on idle, misfiring, stalling, etc... READ THIS

Well, couple days ago I posted about my issue, today I figured out the problem. I have a 1998 Lexus LX470, 197k miles, the seller I got it from said it needed a new fuel pump and the symptoms it was having made it seem like he was correct. Then after reading up more on it, I saw there was other...

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And, is it having trouble cranking because you've run the battery down trying? That's what I experienced...had to throw a charger on it overnight.

 

[Dirt J]

What are the codes it's throwing?

 

[2000LandCruiser01]

What are the codes it's throwing?

Good question (should've mentioned initially, adding it now). No codes thrown; just an "empty" CEL.

 

[medtro]

Car now has trouble cranking, much less starting.

What is the voltage from the battery?

Check battery, starter and anything between battery and starter.

 

[2000LandCruiser01]

What is the voltage from the battery?

Check battery, starter and anything between battery and starter.

don't currently know (going to get a multimeter this weekend) but I suspect @Trapper50cal is correct with just wearing the battery down cranking while trying to figure this out. Also @Trapper50cal - that post was helpful but unfortunately (or fortunately depending on perspective) all fuses are good

 

[2001LC]

You seem to understand the terms, based on statement you made and have done some testing. No start while cranking, security light on IG key out, off IG key in. Fuel related concerns.

At this point. I'd check to see if fuel flowing from fuel filter while cranking, at time of no start.

 

[2000LandCruiser01]

You seem to understand the terms, based on statement you made and have done some testing. No start while cranking, security light on IG key out, off IG key in. Fuel related concerns.

At this point. I'd check to see if fuel flowing from fuel filter while cranking, at time of no start.

Yeah that's the plan once I get the battery charged - is this a fairly simple "disconnect a line somewhere around the engine, crank and see if fuel comes out of the disconnected line" situation? or is it more involved than that?

 

[2000LandCruiser01]

What is the voltage from the battery?

Check battery, starter and anything between battery and starter.

Battery is at 12.34 V (measured disconnected from car - does that matter?)

 

[2001LC]

Check that fuel is flowing to fuel rail:

Disconnect fuel line to fuel rail at fuel filter. By pinching green clip (non reusable), on down stream hose fitting attached to the fuel filter.

Note: If fuel pump working, building fuel pressure when cranking. Fuel will spray as you detach hose. Even a few hours or more, after cranking.

Attach a hose to fuel filters, now exposed nipple. You can leave green lock clip on nipple, if your catch hose fits tightly on end of nipple. If not, removing green clip, and push hose over rib. Run that hose from fuel filter to a catch can. See if fuel pumps, into catch can, as engine cranking.

Note of caution: You likely know. Gasoline vapors are highly flammable. So be carful. Any spark, will be deadly.

If no gas, comes out while cranking. No fuel-

Check the fuel pump circuit up to fuel pump. Good-

Test pump with 12Volts- No pump motor sound.

Replace fuel pump, tank seal, fuel filter & green clip

 

[medtro]

Battery is at 12.34 V (measured disconnected from car - does that matter?)

Not fully charged.
Picture from Find the Voltage of Car Battery - https://www.batteriesplus.com/blog/power/find-voltage-of-car-battery

 

[2000LandCruiser01]

@medtro thanks for that; charged up to 13.5 V and had a good solid crank (still no start though).

@2001LC - I disconnected the fuel line to fuel rail at the fuel filter (attached via the green clip). Fuel dribbled out the detached line, but certainly did not spray. Connected a hose to the now exposed nipple, cranked (even floored the throttle a few times), and not a drop of fuel. 100% sure I have gas - so the problem is either the fuel pump circuit or the fuel pump itself correct?

Testing the Fuel System:
In an effort to determine if the problem is the fuel pump circuit or just the actual fuel pump, I did the following:

1. Disconnect both fuel lines and the sender gauge connector (pic below)

2. Turn key to On position --> result: Gas gauge at Empty and Gas light on (makes sense) (pic below)

3. Reconnect the sender gauge connector, while leaving fuel lines disconnected (pic below)

4. Turn key to On position --> result: Gas gauge at ~½ full and Gas light off (seems to make sense) (pic below)

My question: Can I interpret this as "the fuel pump circuit is OK, therefore the actual fuel pump is the cause of the problem"? Is there a way to test this?

This is only my second visit to Tinkertown so all help appreciated

 

[2001LC]

I rarely test further than about crank, no fuel. But doing one more test, is only takes a few minutes. Now that you've the carpet up and tank exposed.

Most likely circuit okay, fuel pump failing or dead. If fuel pump fail during next test. Then there's 98% likelihood, circuit okay.

Best to reconnect fuel lines to fuel pump, as seen in picture below. Attach leads to fuel pump first. Then connect leads to 12v battery,. Battery must be place away from gasoline/tank/pump out side vehicle. One spark could be deadly. With your catch hose running to catch can, from fuel filter. See if pump runs and fills catch can.

Note I have seen fuel work intermittently.
If fails: Replace fuel pump, tank seal, fuel filter & green clip

before remove screws, to remove pump. I like to power wash top of tank. While all fuel line and wire attached. To reduce chance of contaminating.

If sediment in tank, vacuum it out. I use a very large syringe.

 

[2001LC]

I also add two cans of 44K, to a full tank gas. Once new fuel pump & filter in. Or Seafoam or Chevron Techron. They're all good fuel additives.

 

[2000LandCruiser01]

Attached the battery to the pump directly and nothing happened - so that seems to point to fuel pump.

That said, how precise of a multimeter does one need to measure the resistance in this picture? I have this multimeter and when I measure I was getting 0, regardless of the setting

 

[2001LC]

If pump did not work with 12V attach, it's dead. Replace it!

 

[2000LandCruiser01]

What are some reputable sellers?

I'm honestly thinking I'm going to replace the entire assembly; it looks like its the original and after 310k miles i'd say its overdue

 

[SteveH]

What are some reputable sellers?

.......Your local Toyota dealer. Yes, you won't like the price.

That said, how precise of a multimeter does one need to measure the resistance in this picture? I have this multimeter and when I measure I was getting 0, regardless of the setting

I got zero ohms resistance on newish (working) Toyota pump, so that measurement in the FSM wasn't meaningful to me. My pump was fine. At my last fule pump adventure, the problem was the wiring beneath the rear door: Fuel pump wiring failure - and the fix - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fuel-pump-wiring-failure-and-the-fix.1325429/

 

[2001LC]

Unfortunately the Denso 950-0107 (1998-05 100 series 2UZ-fe fuel pump).

Seems to have been discontinued. Amazon seller, has double the price and lead time are 1 to 3 months. There may be other places to get it. Like Advance Auto for one, they own worldpac.

Denso 950-0107, are coming from and say made in China these days. Denso does have plants in China. But we don't know, if these are last of old stock or China bootlegs.

Best is Dealership, of which you just missed a sale. But still, this may be you best Dealership deal:
Make sure to let Eric knows, you need right away.

Toyota sale, 25% off wholesale and free shipping WOW

https://autoparts.toyotaofdecatur.com/ Sale end 8/24/23 9/29/23 Eric at Toyota of Decatur. Is the only Toyota parts guy I know of, that takes the time to repack. Even front drive shafts (CV) and rack & pinions come undamaged. I've already gotten 3 of 4 orders from last weeks 15%. Looks like I...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[2001LC]

What are some reputable sellers?

.......Your local Toyota dealer. Yes, you won't like the price.

That said, how precise of a multimeter does one need to measure the resistance in this picture? I have this multimeter and when I measure I was getting 0, regardless of the setting

I got zero ohms resistance on newish (working) Toyota pump, so that measurement in the FSM wasn't meaningful to me. My pump was fine. At my last fule pump adventure, the problem was the wiring beneath the rear door: Fuel pump wiring failure - and the fix - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fuel-pump-wiring-failure-and-the-fix.1325429/

Failure to get fuel flow/pressure, circuit is next test. Which includes wiring under rear door and Fuel Pump can be jumped from there too. Usually before jumping at pump from under seat, since seats needs removing.

OP: Jumping with 12V directly on the pump, is acid test for pump. But even those can fool us from time to time. As the pump may work intermittently. But when taken with symptoms, other test and age. It's a good bet, fuel pump replace resolves.

OP disconnect at pump, which resulted in dead gas gauge. Interesting test! But not sure (doubt) it's, a fool proof test of circuit.