Coolant leak at water inlet and..

[2001LC]

I may stop using Hydens based on your observation. But true OEM for $35 sound to good. Have you any picture of bearing you can share?

I put a Hyden idler pulley on The King just as a test, but only have a few thousand miles on it. I recently heard some noise and ended up replacing fan clutch. But in looking at closely, I do find the Hyden bearing to be noisier than OEM of higher mileage.

Update on Hyden idler pulley. I did have a chance to see the first one I used, after ~35K miles of use. It was starting to chirp just a little bit, so I replaced. But could have gone further for sure.

1. Oil drain plug leak. Needs new washer.
2. ******Propeller shafts need lubing with every oil change at minimum.
3. Rear differential seal leaking. R&R breather and add some AT-205 reseal to rear differential may take care of this leak.
4. Weep hole at time belt to dirty with gunk and coolant to get good reading. It's now clean and needs watching.

Do you have a video of how to lube the propeller shaft?

I don't think I was able to get any usable footage. I'll look again! But I did just post some info on lubing in post #108 of Merlot for you Scored 2007 LC W/63K No AHC Clean. Twas the yr of unique finds! Ask any question there that you may have on lubing.

 

[abuck99]

Update with the Hayden bearing Idler pulley. After 5000 miles, I feel the bearing has side to side (bottom towards the radiator and top towards the engine) play about 1-2 mm. OEM is about $30-35 on ebay.

I know partsouq has the Toyota idler for about $36 and then there is shipping from Middle East, but I dont trust buying OEM parts on ebay or amazon I question authenticity and ebay doenst have a mechanism to enforce it. $30-35 from ebay seems questionable and worthy of investigation since US Dealer price is around $90, US dealer discounted price is $60ish.

 

[PabloCruise]

I also found heater Tee's need replacing ASAP, and coolant system should be flushed with distilled water, and Toyota red LL should be used at that time to refill. But first lets make sure we hold water.
View attachment 1522795

I was going to as, "pink or red" after I got through reading, but I found this - thank you!

I am chasing a small coolant loss, but now thinking I should check mileage when the timing belt and water pump were done - maybe lump these projects all together? If I am pulling the intake to work on the heater bypass (front and rear), might as well service the starter contacts at that time.

 

[FLJ23]

There are Zirks at each U-Joint and one at each slip yoke. Drive forward or back to get the zirks pointing down and put a grease gun on and pump until you can hear grease crackling out the joint.

Oh ok I didn’t know propeller shady was the drive shaft.
I’ve done those twice since I bought mine 12k ago.
I don’t think it had ever been done.
The clunking lessened after I did it but it’s coming back.
Thanks.

 

[PabloCruise]

I flush every 30K or 2yr which every comes first with 100% Toyota Red LL. As is recommend by Toyota in 98-02. I'm not sure about 03 but 04-07 use pink SLL with different schedule that is to long in duration IMHO.

Coolant system is a priority for me.

Me too, quoting this for all to keep track of which coolant to use...

 

[PabloCruise]

Wheel Bearings:

• These need servicing (packing). I like to pull knuckle on first wheel bearing service I do. I recondition and inspect axle bushing and bearing at that time. Then on subsequent Wheel Bearing service I only need pull wheel hub. The hub on this rig are undoubtedly bad. I've no doubt hub flange teeth will show wear. Replacing will reduce the D to N to R clunk/clink. How much it helps depends on the axle 's teeth, they will be worn also.

Can you elaborate on this? Or do you have another thread on the front end with similar level of detail?

The front rotors on my wife's 470 are warped, so I want to get a solid understanding of everything I should do when I go in for front brakes. We got the truck 3 years ago, I have done rear brakes since then.

Also, what grease are you using on the battery terminals? I have never greased terminals...

Thank you for the great pictures, they really help me, every bit as much as the words. I know it is more work to take these detailed pictures and videos - so thank you!

 

[2001LC]

Can you elaborate on this? Or do you have another thread on the front end with similar level of detail?

The front rotors on my wife's 470 are warped, so I want to get a solid understanding of everything I should do when I go in for front brakes. We got the truck 3 years ago, I have done rear brakes since then.

Also, what grease are you using on the battery terminals? I have never greased terminals...

Thank you for the great pictures, they really help me, every bit as much as the words. I know it is more work to take these detailed pictures and videos - so thank you!

Battery posts:
I wipe on white Lithium grease after cleaning post and battery terminals.

Brakes:
Most dealership and some shops have equipment to machine brake (turn) disk (rotor) on vehicle. When this is done there is no need to pull front wheel hubs. Very sweet!

DIY we need to pull wheel hub to turn or replace rotor. So I like to do a wheel bearing job at same time. If other issue in this area need servicing, I like to get those done at same time as well. Like say knuckle servicing, front drive shafts (CV) service or R&R, ball joints, TRE, etc.

If you look in index here Buying, PM & Advance Maintenance of 100 & 200 series. you'll find a lot of helpful stuff. I'm updating as I get time, to make more user friendly and adding more links. So it does take some digging through post/links. I don't have much on turning rotors there. But, once I have the hubs with rotors attached off the knuckle. I take them to a machine shop and have them turned. One note; I do not as a rule replace pads without having rotors turned or replaced. I always bed in new pads to the rotors.

The most complet overview of brake work I did on a single 100 series was here, where I replaced front rotors with new OEM:
Scored 2007 Unicorn. The holy grail of 100 series. post #216

 

[Mark WV]

I know partsouq has the Toyota idler for about $36 and then there is shipping from Middle East, but I dont trust buying OEM parts on ebay or amazon I question authenticity and ebay doenst have a mechanism to enforce it. $30-35 from ebay seems questionable and worthy of investigation since US Dealer price is around $90, US dealer discounted price is $60ish.

I have in the recently purchased the low cost eBay idler and tensioner pulleys - both were authentic and were shipped to my by a US toyota dealer - I figure they were closing out excess inventory etc, and don't care if they are selling below their current cost... If I recall correctly, partsouq was less expensive for the parts, but with shipping the ebay option was a lower total cost. I always give partsouq a look if I need anything major - more often than not they have come through with the best pricing.

 

[Scrambled]

Just stumbled onto this thread, excellent write up and pics!

Also, your "buying and PM guide" should be linked to in the FAQ section, great resource.

 

[DADventure J100]

Few more issue noted from undercarriage:

1. Oil drain plug leak. Needs new washer.
2. Propeller shafts need lubing with every oil change at minimum.
3. Rear differential seal leaking. R&R breather and add some AT-205 reseal to rear differential may take care of this leak.
4. Weep hole at time belt to dirty with gunk and coolant to get good reading. It's now clean and needs watching.

View attachment 1523161View attachment 1523164View attachment 1523165View attachment 1523167

Hey, did you have an active coolant leak here? My 2004 LC just sprung a leak today, and it's a steady flow (with engine running) from this spot (under harmonic balancer. Need help finding the leak. Is it water pump failure? or just the water pump gasket or FIPG failure. 179K miles, TB done on time at 90k. So it's almost time again.

 

[2001LC]

I always find the leak. But each cases is different. If leak is seen coming from weep hole at bottom of time cover only and not around it. Then it's likely water pump. But it can fool you as to where it's actually coming from. Since the water will flow down. Also back as car is driven. You've also oil coolant hoses in area, and water inlet housing as seen in OP. Additionally you've radiator hoses.

Picture may help?

But regardless, in doing TB job you'll get to all potential leaks in front of engine. About the only one we don't get to, is front water by-pass joint. Gasket on each side just under front of intake manifold on top of engine.
In this thread Scored 2007 LC w/174K AHC you'll see front water by-pass joint gasket leak. It's on a VVTi engine which needs intake manifold remove to get at. IIRC the non VVT doesn't need manifold removed.

 

[DADventure J100]

Here is a short video clip of it happening. This is after I cleaned up the whole area and inspected every hose above for failure. I've had water pump failure in other vehicles before, and IIRC it was a much slower drip. Without removing accessories from front of engine, I can't see any place against block or hose connections that is leaking or even has encrusted red from leak. Your post about having a water pump leak from incorrect installation could be my case, or maybe it's the original Toyota water pump and they only did TB at 90k service.

Water pump leak

• DADventure J100
• Apr 7, 2019

Steady coolant leak from the bottom of timing cover/water pump weep hole on my 2004 LC 100.

 

[2001LC]

I see much more coolant from LH side (DS) then weep hole. This can be water pump and is common to what is seen. It is a lot of coolant leaking, more than I've seen just start all at once by itself. There is and "air hole" on DS in back of water pump. We get some weep from it. It can be where coolant will pump out of a bad pump. You may be able to look with a mirror near A/C compressor. See if coolant coming out just below water pump at little plastic cover. The water pump gasket can blow out also if bad. They'll go bad from using tap water, not flushing as PM, adding stuff in coolant system like a chemical flush, bad install, non OEM gasket.

This air hole runs ti shaft of water pump at seal. Earl stage of leak pink crusty. This is not detectable and consider acceptable.

Looking at front you can see channel in casting runs from the air hole to center shaft of pump.

You may also be able to remove upper covers and feel if pulley of water pump to see if it is wobbling, which also is common to a bad leaky pump. But again you're due for timing belt. Doing the T-belt you'll easily find leak.


But also look close at the water pipe in front of time cover on DS. It has three small hoses with clamps on it. They attach
to throttle body, water by-pass joint and oil cooler and the pipe. I've just replace the set with OEM on my 2000 with 350K miles. Lexus replace them before me, with non OEM and screw clamps (junk).

 

[elpeyote]

The water inlet also connects to the water pump via a rectangular opening with a narrow trench center in it. This attached to a flat rectangular opening in the top of the water pump. A bead of a rather pricey FIPG 2-3mm wide is applied in the trench.


View attachment 1522508
They give you five minutes to work with this special Black FIPG for coolant only. Run over 5 min and you must clean off FIPG and start over. So I put new OEM soap O-ring on, ready to install!View attachment 1522512
I cleaned up the water pump and receptor for the water by-pass joint readying for the FIPG & O-ring

1st off, this thread is amazing.

2nd...Do you know if the part has been updated, or if it originally had some sort of factory installed rectangular gasket? I'm looking at the replacement water inlet for my 2001 Tundra, which seems to be the same part as the one from this LC you worked on (16032-50110). It appears the OEM replacement comes with a gasket in place?

It looks like I have a leak from this location, and I'm considering replacing the whole part. I shouldn't use the FIPG in addition to this, right? Do you know the torque specs for the 2 bolts? Thanks!

 

[2001LC]

First I'd be surprised if leak is at seam of pipe coming out of water inlet. I'd clean it up and watch very close for point of leak, before buying new inlet.

Interesting pictures of water inlet, show what appears the be a gasket. Looking very close it does not look like a gasket. I say this because you can see a point where it is not smooth with straight lines. Looks more like FIPG 1282B, which must be applied and assembled in 3 minuets.

The O-ring (large) needs to be lubed with soapy water (best, dawn dish soap)
Torque is 13ft-lbf. Must torque bolts alternately down, within 3 minutes of applying the 1282B FIPG. So be ready!

Go back and you'll see in OP of this thread.

 

[elpeyote]

First I'd be surprised if leak is at seam of pipe coming out of water inlet. I'd clean it up and watch very close for point of leak, before buying new inlet.

Interesting pictures of water inlet, show what appears the be a gasket. Looking very close it does not look like a gasket. I say this because you can see a point where it is not smooth with straight lines. Looks more like FIPG 1282B, which must be applied and assembled in 3 minuets.

The O-ring (large) needs to be lubed with soapy water (best, dawn dish soap)
Torque is 13ft-lbf. Must torque bolts alternately down, within 3 minutes of applying the 1282B FIPG. So be ready!

Go back and you'll see in OP of this thread.

Thanks, I'll clean it up and see if I can spot the leak.

That's interesting about the "gasket". I see two genuine parts on ebay right now - one in a Toyota box and one in a Lexus box - and both of them have this same fluid gasket already applied.

Related to this thread but unrelated to the coolant leak -- how did you get that power steering reservoir so clean?

 

[elpeyote]

Related to this thread but unrelated to the coolant leak -- how did you get that power steering reservoir so clean?

Found my answer here: Steering Flush & Cleaning

 

[2001LC]

Often times anymore I just replace the PS reservoir. Either they're so dirty it takes hours to clean or they've a hole in the screen.

 

[NoVaGator]

bumping this thread because I've received one of these water inlet housings with the pre-installed gaskets.

the old style housing was actually 2 pieces, and mine was damaged, and leaking from the side piece which connects to the water pipe.

@elpeyote what did you wind up doing?

wondering if I should attempt to rehab the old part rather than using this one.

 

[Rolocado]

bumping this thread because I've received one of these water inlet housings with the pre-installed gaskets.

the old style housing was actually 2 pieces, and mine was damaged, and leaking from the side piece which connects to the water pipe.

@elpeyote what did you wind up doing?

wondering if I should attempt to rehab the old part rather than using this one.

Picture of it?