Coolant leak at water inlet and.. (2 Viewers)

[GTV]

Just the rubber o-ring, not the sealant or the aluminium inlet.

Coolant leak at water inlet and..

Working on a 00LC w/169K miles. Note: title is only starting point, much more was done. First up is getting coolant leak(s) under control. Coolant leak repair is the most important thing we must fix. Then I'll move on to Power steering leaks and other issues. The water inlet to water by-pass...

forum.ih8mud.com

The first picture has O-ring and FIPG 1282B. So I'm not sure what you're looking for in PN#. If you replacing the water inlet, than use your VIN # here www.partsouq.com. PN#'s VAR by year (engine/model.)

 

[2001LC]

Just the rubber o-ring, not the sealant or the aluminium inlet.

What is your confusion then? PN in the picture!

 

[GTV]

The confusion is that I wasn’t 100% certain THAT o-ring in the picture was THE o-ring for the thermostat housing. I’ve seen 3 different part numbers for cooling system related o-rings and wanted to confirm before ordering.

What is your confusion then? PN in the picture!

 

[2001LC]

To be clear: The O-ring pictured in OP, is not for the thermostat, that is different. It is for the water inlet to front water water bypass joint pump. There is also small o-ring that goes on end of water crossover pipe to back of water pump.

So yes 3 different PN#s for 3 different o-rings all in same general area.

 

[GTV]

Well, s***. I didn't see this message and ordered the one in the pic (96761-35035). Precisely what I was trying to avoid. For clarification can we post the 3 part numbers and their respective applications? The online diagrams are vague at best.

96761-35035
16346-50010
I can't find the 3rd part number I was looking at...

I did find some of the 1282B sealant from an eBay seller for $30 shipped (McGeorge wanted $60+), looks like he has one left if anyone is looking...

Toyota OEM Seal Packing 1282b 08826-00100 for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Toyota OEM Seal Packing 1282b 08826-00100 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

To be clear: The O-ring pictured in OP, is not for the thermostat, that is different. It is for the water inlet to water pump. There is also small o-ring that goes on end of water crossover pipe to water pump.

So yes 3 different PN#s for 3 different o-rings all in same general area.

 

[shtbrwn86]

Seems you've talked yourself out of using as is. So pull it off the seal. I'll bet it has the groove.

Me, I would try it as is. If it did leak, I re-due!

It does have the groove. The one I pulled off was this updated part, but I bought a new one. I peeled the old gasket off the old one though and there is a groove...

 

[2001LC]

It does have the groove. The one I pulled off was this updated part, but I bought a new one. I peeled the old gasket off the old one though and there is a groove...

Interesting. So you too have gotten a pre sealed (1282B FIPG) applied at factory. Saves times and the cost of and tube.

I have since cleaned pitting and applied FIPG to surfaces filling in pits. Once on gooseneck (inlet cap) to lower hose. The job needed to get done and no parts available for 10 days due to pandemic. I've also added to pits on block under water pump gasket and heads under crossover bypass joint gaskets.

I prep by cleaning very well with brushes and chemicals. Apply FIPG 1282B and scrap flush with a razor blade. Let cure overnight. Works very well in the short term. I suspect well work very well long term also, where pitting not through the metal

This was on a VVT engine. So we're buying time (cost) until either starter or A.I. pump job, as intake manifold on VVT must be pulled to R&R water bypass front.
Pitting was likely caused by FIPG used on O-ring, and assembly wet. Not only FIPG should not be used on O-rings, but is was not 1282B FIPG.

I suspect a chemical reaction from wrong FIPG, coolant, water and/or a stop leaked used. As found in this same engine, deposits & pitting in block. I'd never put stop leak in these engine. If done to get to a shop "in a pinch". I'd use a chemical flush kit like BG Coolant system Cleaner & Cool. I do ASAP.

Whatever it was that caused the deposits, ensuing electrolysis and so pitting. I cleaned up the block, applied 1282B FIPG, let cure, assembled.

 

[2001LC]

Here's more:

 

[94SRUNNER]

Wow. That is some serious corrosion! Radiator replaced at the same time?

 

[2001LC]

Where objective, budget, parts availability allows we replace these non block or head parts.
But in a pinch, 1282B applied and cured before assembly has been working very well.

 

[2001LC]

Wow. That is some serious corrosion! Radiator replaced at the same time?

Those are random pictures of various coolant system services. Some may have been with radiator R&R.

Keep in mind; pitting from electrolysis, happens where old coolant is trapped (not circulating) in most cases. Old coolant past serviceable life gets under a gaskets, hose, FIPG or what have you and sit there eating away. So it does not necessarily mean a radiator is bad.

The three most overlooked areas of any vehicle, that can result in the most damage and thus expense:
1) Coolant system (replace engine). Flush often, never use tap water, use OEM coolant and parts. Then likelihood of electictrosis is greatly reduced if not elmatent.
2) Brake fluid (replace entry system). Flush often with proper fluid and do not overfill.
3) Power steering fluid (Replace rack & pinion and Vane pump). Flush othen with proper fluid and make sure the reservoir screen and chamber clean.

 

[Ma son]

I'm helping out a local Mud member get his 00LC w/169K miles under control service wise. @70deluxe I"ll use this thread for work on this rig. Note: title is only starting point.

First up is getting coolant leak(s) under control. Coolant leak repair is the most important thing we must fix. Then I'll move on to Power steering leaks and other issues.

The water inlet to water by-pass joint front uses a rubber O-ring. FSM states wet with soapy water to assemble. The reason is to lube the O-ring so it glides into the female receptor on the water by-pass joint.

The water inlet also connects to the water pump via a rectangular opening with a narrow trench center in it. This attached to a flat rectangular opening in the top of the water pump. A bead of a rather pricey FIPG 2-3mm wide is applied in the trench.


View attachment 1522508
They give you five minutes to work with this special Black FIPG for coolant only. Run over 5 min and you must clean off FIPG and start over. So I put new OEM soap O-ring on, ready to install!View attachment 1522512
I cleaned up the water pump and receptor for the water by-pass joint readying for the FIPG & O-ring
View attachment 1522524
Complete install with torquing the two securing bolt down to 13ft-lbf, in under 3 mins as required (picture is for photo shoot).
View attachment 1522525
But you've got to see why I had to pull and reseal. It was due to improper procedure used when some mechanic in Utah installed the time-belt (most likely). Not sure if he was trying to fix a problem or just that glue it all....

Hi Paul, I am currently leaking from the circular portion shown (arrow in my pic) in your pics. Am i correct in understanding i’ll just need the fipg and o-ring to stop the leak? And its just the two bolts that hold the assy on(circled in my pic)?

 

[nissanh]

Correct! The removal will be bit difficult due to old FIPG and O ring on two separate locations. Carefully lift the Sub-unit that contains the O-ring. Don't use screwdrivers or sharp objects to pry (avoids scuffing the mating surfaces)

Use an OEm O-ring, then apply some coolant to the inner surface on the engine side. FIPG (Toyota is best) to the grove on mating surface.

Here is the best way to insert the O-ring subunit to engine: Install two bolts and turn the bolts equally: this will insure you are not damaging or pinching the O-ring.

 

[Ma son]

Correct! The removal will be bit difficult due to old FIPG and O ring on two separate locations. Carefully lift the Sub-unit that contains the O-ring. Don't use screwdrivers or sharp objects to pry (avoids scuffing the mating surfaces)

Use an OEm O-ring, then apply some coolant to the inner surface on the engine side. FIPG (Toyota is best) to the grove on mating surface.

Here is the best way to insert the O-ring subunit to engine: Install two bolts and turn the bolts equally: this will insure you are not damaging or pinching the O-ring.

Seems easy enough. Thank you!

 

[2001LC]

Hi Paul, I am currently leaking from the circular portion shown (arrow in my pic) in your pics. Am i correct in understanding i’ll just need the fipg and o-ring to stop the leak? And its just the two bolts that hold the assy on(circled in my pic)?

View attachment 3013285

1st, do not put FIPG on O-ring (circled in the picture) which looks like has been done here. We use dish soap, to lube to O-ring for installation.

When FIPG has been added to the O-ring, and installed wet. It will often trap coolant and cause pitting in the seal area of the front water bypass joint, where the water inlet O-ring seats. I have a special hone, I can sometimes correct (smooth out) the sealing area. But this depends on extent of damaged to the front water bypass joint.

The upper radiator house attaches to the goose neck of front water bypass joint. Very often when an after market upper rad hose used, or coolant system not properly card for. The goose neck under the hose also gets pitted.

If these areas are pitted. Best is to replace the front water bypass joint and upper radiator with OEM parts, and OEM clamps.

I do have a tick (seen in post # 90 above). I use with FIPG, if parts aren't available. Which first we cleaning surface to bare metal including the pits. Apply the FIPG, scrap flush filling the pits and let cure overnight. This creates a band-aid and can work very well for years and years.

You can stop by if you like, and I can look-over and we can talk. Just PM me, contact info!

Different location, but same FIPG band-aid technique.

 

[Ma son]

Thank you for the info. I will just use soapy water on the o-ring and the fipg on the rectangular flange. Hoping there wont be any pitting on the inside, but we shall see. If I have any issues, I will definitely reach out. I still have your number from when I stopped by a few months ago


Also just a heads up, I attempted to procure the fipg from Stevinson west and east yesterday after reading this thread. Apparently they are super backordered on that product. So if you have any, use sparingly! Luckily Stevinson East found one tube somewhere at another dealer. Wont be in til Monday, but at least i could get it.

 

[2001LC]

Hey Robert. I've 1 open tube, which should have enough for 1 or 2 more jobs. Also I have 2 unopened tubes of 1282B. Call if you like!

 

[Ma son]

Hey Robert. I've 1 open tube, which should have enough for 1 or 2 more jobs. Also I have 2 unopened tubes of 1282B. Call if you like!

Thanks Paul, youre the man!

 

[nissanh]

Thanks Paul, youre the man!

Too bad, we are not near Paul! I recently replaced the thermostat housing and lower hose due to a minor leak (more of wetting) due to some pitting/rust. I did notice the rust when I did the T-belt 6 years ago.. well it lasted this long!

 

[Ma son]

Too bad, we are not near Paul! I recently replaced the thermostat housing and lower hose due to a minor leak (more of wetting) due to some pitting/rust. I did notice the rust when I did the T-belt 6 years ago.. well it lasted this long!

Lucky indeed! One of the most important benefits of Colorado life