Scored 2007 LC W/63K No AHC Clean. Adding Lift, Sliders & skids! (2 Viewers)

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I used your suggestion of the vinylex on the faded plastic fresh air intake vent at the windshield- worked great and brought it back to life.

I installed all new hoses last spring during my 180k service- I might experiment with vinylex on them to see how they do.

As for silicone spray, in corrosive wet enviroments silicone spray is helpful as a protectant but it does attract and hold dust & grit in dusty dry conditions. The vinylex isnt sticky like silicone spray
 
Head cover bolt re-torquing has become a standard PM to prevent oil leak for me. I've yet to find one that didn't need it.

53IN-lbf
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Good question.

I do a cross pattern and go over twice. It's not supper important to use a cross pattern, as this is such a light torque, but it can't hurt.

Being such a light torque, it almost always takes a little more second pass as seal settles.

Note: on older rigs especially those from rust belt, they can be frozen. Those can take more than 53IN-flb just to get started.
 
I find this two line retaining clip used to stabilize vacuum lines, so often broken.

I replaced this one, with a swivel type I had lying around. It isn't actual the same offset fix design as what factory had there. But this style should last much longer and do the job just find.
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FWIW, Here is the factory proper PN #.
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Timing belt job was done, which often means broken or missing clip from front of DS top timing belt cover. One of these clips was missing, leaving a passage/hole for dirt to enter. Not a big deal, but I do like wires tucked in away from drive belt. I've not found one of these clips from Dealership parts department yet... Luckily I had a cover in the shop I was able to pull from to replace it with.
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I just notice I have not posted lubing propeller shafts and spiders. I actually did this during warmer weather. I avoid doing when cold as grease does not flow well cold. IIRC In 2003 Toyota flipped the rear propeller so that slide yoke is forward near transfer case, as opposed to near rear differential. But lubing is the same.

Toyota has now changed the recommendation on lubing the slide yokes from grease until grease seen passing seal. To grease until yoke begins to extend. I'll add: keep rear drive shaft in neutral position. Either keep wheels on ground or support under rear differential. If AHC
equipped keep in "N". With spider I just grease until new grease flows out seals.

If dealing with a high mileage that's been under lube, I do grease slide yoke until grease passes seal. But I've a very special technique when I do this, so I don't over extend the propeller shaft yokes. In this low mile, I just did until extension, Also I did see signs it had been lube in previously.

As always I wipe off tip of grease fitting before hooking up grease gun to them. Don't want to push dirt into the fitting.
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What do you guys use to clean all the plastics and rubbers in the engine bay? Does vinylex or lexol work well for this??
Yes, after washing the Lexols' Vinylex works well.

That's the cleanest engine I've ever peeped!
Thanks. I'd agree. since was broken down in hundreds of pieces and each piece cleaned.
 
This is a phenomenal thread. Extremely helpful (and inspiring).

THANK YOU! :clap:
 
I'm impressed with all your work sir. Been following this for a while for lots of great ideas.
"Thanks. I'd agree. since was broken down in hundreds of pieces and each piece cleaned." Sorry, it was the Unicorn engine broken down to hundreds of prices. This engine I deep cleaned.

This is a phenomenal thread. Extremely helpful (and inspiring).

THANK YOU! :clap:
Thank you for saying so! Be sure to look in my other links, found in my signture, for more helpful stuff.
 
Decided to heat & insulate my garage. Bids I got where running $17k to $23K, heat, ceiling and one wall with drywall & R13! So did myself at cost $2,300. Still need to replace doors and do the walls $2,500 est.. But man what a difference, I can make it toasty and stay cooler on hot days

Once done installing heat in shop. I got cough up helping other local mud member's and neighbors work on their rigs. From 1998 to 2011LC Land Cruiser and LX's. Some just leave with me, some worked along side me to learn.

Oil & filter, spark plugs, coils, vacuum lines, brakes, steering rack, ball joints, wheel bearing & knuckles, etc. You name we did it all.

Took most of winter researching, buying materials and install heat in my shop. This included learning how to run new Nat Gas line and tooling up!. Which as I learned proper configuration, found my utility room was configured wrong. Re did utility room gas line and ran line further to my shop. Installed radiant barrier on underside of roof (summer temp hit 110 F in shop last year and shad tree dying), 5/8"plywood ceiling, electrical, hose & cords on ceiling, insulation up to R55, tape & foam in gaps.
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Built storage with scrapes wood, ton of parts up there now.
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One of the really slowing factors was all the stuff I had/have in rafters and shop. Moving stuff including two engine torn down, all the time moving really slow job. Took 45 day to get done, man am I slow and it was cold until last ceiling piece put in. I was heating all of Colorado until then. Then running wiring and hang stuff like shelves, reels, door hangers, etc. That 55' of a very heavy 3/4 air line and top of line reel About 120lb I est.
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Once done heating shop and getting cough up helping other locals mud member's and neighbors work on their rigs.

It was time for Merlot to come in shop!

I did drive Merlot to buy Hot Dwag heater, 100 HWY miles away in Co Springs in early January. It was running a bit rough, I presumed from sitting, as temp plates exp Sept. I dropped in a can 44k in a the gas tank with 20 gallons gas and shot 1/2 can of Seafoam in the intake at PCV hose the night before the trip too soak. Then took on the HWY to get the garage Hot Dwag heater from guy in CoSp.

I did a carbon burn-out to start to HWY run. That is, I drop down the gears to get 4,500 RPM plus at 65 MPH for 5 minutes or so to supper heat heads, cylinders and CATs. Then cooling by shifting to D dropping back RPM. Before return trip, I added other 1/2 can of Seafoam and had lunch as it soaked in. Then did second burn-out to blow carbon and heat the CATs on way back.

Frustrating as I got into stop and go in a cone zone. Once I broke free of cones and traffic, I floored it. It was so silky smooth as I hit 130MPH plus. Fastest I've even driven in a 100 series. Said to GF: look at speed-O. She siad "no way" feel like 65MPH, slow down, which I did at bosses command..LOL

Merlot sat in Driveway since. I had started a few times and drove around the block, just so it didn't just sit. LC don't like sitting. A CEL came on. It was a DTC P1445 secondary air injector switch valve No 2 Bank @. A.I. stuff only in the VVT engine. Heats CATs faster to reduce pollution. Maybe stuck from sitting, IDK. But had to wait until shop ready, it was just to darn cold to work on anything.

But as I went to start it's this week, battery was dead. Back in Nov I installed a new Toyota battery post #20. Scored 2007 LC W/63K No AHC Clean. Twas the yr of unique finds!
At which time I used a new to me CRC red stuff on battery clamps, which I subsequently return as junk, and will not be using again.

Removing battery I found the red CRC soak down into my greased battery post between clamps. Seem it interfered with charging and AMPs. So much so my new battery sulfated and was at 2.5Volts. Took three days of cycling battery on charge to get back over 13.2V. Kept getting bad battery indicator on charger until corrected. I'll keep eye on. I don't think I've a parasitic draw, but will watch. Merlot does have headrest DVD, but I've only seen parasitic draw from drop down DVD. But I'll watch. It did have a deer horn, but I had removed that last August, that was a draw, as was silent to human ear and on.

Now the engine with charge battery is running smooth and CEL is off. I'll need to keep starting, and driving to see if P1445 comes back. But it may have just been low AMP of battery from CRC inhibiting current just like battery post oxidation cause some operating issues. These VVT don't like low currents. Well see and fix if need.
 
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Decided to heat & insulate my garage. Bids I got where running $17k to $23K, heat, ceiling and one wall with drywall & R13! So did myself at cost $2,300. Still need to replace doors and do the walls $2,500 est.. But man what a difference, I can make it toasty and stay cooler on hot days

Once done installing heat in shop. I got cough up helping other local mud member's and neighbors work on their rigs. From 1998 to 2011LC Land Cruiser and LX's. Some just leave with me, some worked along side me to learn.

Oil & filter, spark plugs, coils, vacuum lines, brakes, steering rack, ball joints, wheel bearing & knuckles, etc. You name we did it all.

Took most of winter researching, buying materials and install heat in my shop. This included learning how to run new Nat Gas line and tooling up!. Which as I learned proper configuration, found my utility room was configured wrong. Re did utility room gas line and ran line further to my shop. Installed radiant barrier on underside of roof (summer temp hit 110 F in shop last year and shad tree dying), 5/8"plywood ceiling, electrical, hose & cords on ceiling, insulation up to R55, tape & foam in gaps.
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Built storage with scrapes wood, ton of parts up there now.
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One of the really slowing factors was all the stuff I had/have in rafters and shop. Moving stuff including two engine torn down, all the time moving really slow job. Took 45 day to get done, man am I slow and it was cold until last ceiling piece put in. I was heating all of Colorado until then. Then running wiring and hang stuff like shelves, reels, door hangers, etc. That 55' of a very heavy 3/4 air line and top of line reel About 120lb I est.
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Nice work Paul! You've been needing/deserving this for too long!
 
Holy crap the attention to detail - I would totally drive up to CO to get my car serviced by you, if you do that. :eek:
 
I met Paul briefly at his house. He is indeed a 100 series guru. If I go hunting for another 100 series I'll use his services.
 

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