Coolant leak at water inlet and.. (1 Viewer)

[2001LC]

Working on a 00LC w/169K miles. Note: title is only starting point, much more was done.

First up is getting coolant leak(s) under control. Coolant leak repair is the most important thing we must fix. Then I'll move on to Power steering leaks and other issues.

The water inlet to water by-pass joint front uses a rubber O-ring. FSM states wet with soapy water to assemble. The reason is to lube the O-ring so it glides into the female receptor on the water by-pass joint.

The water inlet also connects to the water pump via a rectangular opening with a narrow trench center in it. This attached to a flat rectangular opening in the top of the water pump. A bead of a rather pricey FIPG 2-3mm wide is applied in the trench.

They give you five minutes to work with this special Black FIPG for coolant only. Run over 5 min and you must clean off FIPG and start over. So I put new OEM soap O-ring on, ready to install!

I cleaned up the water pump and receptor for the water by-pass joint readying for the FIPG & O-ring

Complete install with torquing the two securing bolt down to 13ft-lbf, in under 3 mins as required (picture is for photo shoot).

But you've got to see why I had to pull and reseal. It was due to improper procedure used when some mechanic in Utah installed the time-belt (most likely). Not sure if he was trying to fix a problem or just that glue it all....

 

[2001LC]

Replacement of O-ring and reseal with FIPG came about looking for a leak. It appeared and was confirm as best one can that leak was from water inlet housing.

Upon inspecting I could see a gray FIPG was used. This told me the install of water inlet which includes sealing with FIPG to water pump was not done by the book (Toyota FSM).

Timing belt job was done by a corner shop which is not usually a good idea to have them do anything. These corner shop's cause me more work for me, then anything else.

 

[2001LC]

Anyway here is what I found pulling water inlet housing. For some reason the teck used his gray FIPG in/on the O-ring which is very bad idea. He may have had leak he was trying to stop or just didn't have a clue on proper procedure. This was hies second mistake, his first was using wrong FIPG on matting surface to water pump. Hopefully he didn't use any on water pump to block while doing Timing belt.

Gray FIPG is wrong stuff. No FIPG should be on water by-pass joint round hole receptor for O-ring of water inlet.

Leak was at lower end of O-ring (as sit when installed) where was improperly sealed with FIPG. No FIPG should be used here, only soapy water (lube) to aid with install.
You can't see in this picture, but discoloration was also on outer side of O-ring directly across from inner discoloration you can see.

I had to use green scratch pad and or special hone brush, to polish inside of female receptor of water by-pass joint front where water inlet O-ring seats.

It's looks like it will hold water, time will tell. Pitting is very minimal, which pitting was promoted by improper procedure.

 

[2001LC]

I saw more areas of concern during R&R of water inlet that cleaning reveled parts are no longer serviceable and must be replaced. Coolant leak is the number one killer of the 2UZ-fe engine.

See gunk build-up on water inlet cover, you can bet electrolytes has accrued (pitting). This is from improper service of coolant system (flushing or just adding wrong coolant or tap water) in most cases. In this case it was noted in service record during time belt job: 1 gal of Dexcool. So they not only did not flush (unknown what coolant is in system) system but mix in a none Toyota Red. This is very bad practice.

Pitting on water outlet cover and in hose. This will leak for sure at some point. Engine killer!

 

[2001LC]

I also found heater Tee's need replacing ASAP, and coolant system should be flushed with distilled water, and Toyota red LL should be used at that time to refill. But first lets make sure we hold water.

 

[2001LC]

Flushed the power steering system fluid and cleaned the reservoir inside & out. Found some solid contaminants in lower HP line side of reservoir. Also noted fluid wet spots in multiple areas which may all be from hoses at reservoir clamps end (leaking for sure). So I cleaned and re-clamped and will see if any other leaks re-appear over next few weeks. This may not fix all power steering leaks, but will certainly aid in making that determination.
I start by removing fluid from reservoir.

Then clean really good inside and out.

Re-clamped with ASS screw clamps to stop leak, works most times. Replacement of hoses is better practice, but clamping is cost effective as we test for leaks in system. In this case you'll see we ended up replacing the return line. The suction hose is still being watched.

 

[2001LC]

To flush you can start and stop engine very quickly, but this is risky. Better to flush out by raising front end and turn steering lock to lock slowly (full turn right or left) three times, holding at lock for three seconds each time. This is done engine off and make sure fluid doesn't drop much below where return line enters reservoir. This is also first step in bleeding, second step is put on ground and repeat lock to lock 3 times while engine running.

 

[2001LC]

Drive belt tensioner bearing was up next.

Use old bearing to press in new.

New idler pulley is on order, and I'll replace at time tee's are replaced with flushing..

 

[2001LC]

Battery post looked dry so I serviced:

 

[abuck99]

Paul-

Whats the part number of the expensive Toyota FPIG?

 

[2001LC]

Paul-

Whats the part number of the expensive Toyota FPIG?

 

[2001LC]

I stated above that part must be set within 5 min once FIPG applied, that is from FSM. Tube of FIPG states 3 minutes. The picture above showed I had torqued in under 5 mins, was just a photo shoot. It actual took less then 2 min to install and torque, key is be ready.

Don't add coolant for two hours after applying FIPG. Some say 15 minute, I like to make sure it's sets so I wait two hours.

 

[2001LC]

Next on list for this 00LC is heater tee's and flush. This needs to be done soon as we known we've stop all coolant leaks. The coolant that is in there has been mixed with who knows what and weak (less than 50/50 mix). So flushing coolant and replacing with Toyota red is best done at same time as Tee's replaced.


Engine compartment, I notice a few more items that need attending.

1. Vacuum lines from power steering are cracking and need replacing.
2. DS PCV hose cracking and need replacing.
3. PS PCV hose cracking and needs replacing.
4. PCV valve needs replacing or cleaned.
5. PCV grommet needs replacing.
6. Air filter is dirty and needs replacing.
7. MAS needs cleaning.
8. Throttle body needs cleaning.

I did not look at any other hoses, or by-pass joint, nor did I pull spark plugs to inspect or do a compression test. I did notice two newer coils on PS that did not look like Denso OEM based on color.

Power Steering:

I did look at steer rack boots and they were wet/oily, as were other hose and wire around power steering system. This may be from above dripping down. I clean them up, so they need watching.

This hose is the most concerning:

I also looked at mounting bushing. Bushing are soft and need of replacing, but not a priority. It will improve drive-ability to do so, by reducing or eliminating wondering on HWY.

First watch mounting bushing of steering rack. You'll see movement beyond factory design. Two option to tighten up steering from wondering. 1) Replace steering rack. 2) Replace bushing (only aftermarket poly available for two bushing on DS).

Second you'll see front differential bushings movement as I shift from D-N-R and back with brake on. The movement is not to bad, but will tighten up with new bushing. The only way to know how bad bushing are for sure is to remove bolt(s) and inspect (there are three bushing altogether). The clink you hear is probably axle to hub flange play, but could be diff bushing.

Also notice the exhaust tick sound as I put load on engine. Seem to be PS exhaust manifold crack. This has not yet been confirmed, other than by sound.

 

[2001LC]

Next was inspect front drive shaft and axle to hub flange play. Play at hub flange is leading cause of D-N R clunk. Differentials bearings are a close second.
DS inner boot is leaking at outer clamp, re-clamping may take care of this. No remarkable play noted in CV's. Axle teeth have yet to be inspected, they'll give final piece of puzzle on front drive shaft heath.

Wheel Bearings:

• These need servicing (packing). I like to pull knuckle on first wheel bearing service I do. I recondition and inspect axle bushing and bearing at that time. Then on subsequent Wheel Bearing service I only need pull wheel hub. The hub on this rig are undoubtedly bad. I've no doubt hub flange teeth will show wear. Replacing will reduce the D to N to R clunk/clink. How much it helps depends on the axle 's teeth, they will be worn also. This is also good time do do any front drive shaft work like:
• Reboot
• Replace with rebuilts'
• or
• Replace with new

New front drive shaft with new hub flange is the best results we can get.

 

[2001LC]

Few more issue noted from undercarriage:

1. Oil drain plug leak. Needs new washer.
2. Propeller shafts need lubing with every oil change at minimum.
3. Rear differential seal leaking. R&R breather and add some AT-205 reseal to rear differential may take care of this leak.
4. Weep hole at time belt to dirty with gunk and coolant to get good reading. It's now clean and needs watching.

 

[cc93cruiser]

What a mess...people, this is why preventative maimtenance is key.. And do the job by the fsm, always....Good luck with repairs...Thanks for sharing..

 

[2001LC]

What a mess...people, this is why preventative maimtenance is key.. And do the job by the fsm, always....Good luck with repairs...Thanks for sharing..

Repairing what other shop have messed up, is a lot of what I do. This ones really is not to bad.

 

[bctlex]

New idler pulley is on order, and I'll replace at time tee's are replaced with flushing..

Thank you @2001LC. I always thought I need a press to do this - did not know a vice is sufficient.

 

[2001LC]

Thank you @2001LC. I always thought I need a press to do this - did not know a vice is sufficient.

Keep in mind that is only on dr. belt tensioner pulley bearing. We've never found a good replacement for the Idler Pulley Bearing, that is sold individually.

 

[2001LC]

Here's a video on new OEM front drive shaft match with new hub flange and cone washer...so sweet!

You'll see near zero play here and no D to N to R clunk/clink. The only clicking you'll hear is the shifting linage as I shift. All so notice the engine power curve sound is barely effected by loading with brake on as I shift. RPM in both this and above video are with engine not fully warmed up. So RPM is a bit high.