Coolant leak at water inlet and.. (9 Viewers)

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I wonder if Toyota engineers decided to take a failure point out of the equation for service departments?

Namely the proper use of the correct FIPG, including the recommended curing time.
 
bumping this thread because I've received one of these water inlet housings with the pre-installed gaskets.

the old style housing was actually 2 pieces, and mine was damaged, and leaking from the side piece which connects to the water pipe.

@elpeyote what did you wind up doing?

wondering if I should attempt to rehab the old part rather than using this one.

I ended up taking it to a Toyota mechanic and they verified that that's where it was leaking. He could tell that when the previous owner removed that part to replace the timing belt, he didn't clean out the old gasket before he applied the fluid for the new gasket. So he just cleaned it up really good and re-did it by the book.
 
Old one with the new one:

The new one has a slightly different design, but seems like it will bolt up just fine. My main concern is the non-FIPG gasket.
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A factory installed gasket, I'd used without hesitation. Remember to lube the new O-ting with soapy water (dove dish soap is great) and torque inlet to 13ft-lbf. I'd also use new gasket for thermostat. If thermostat old (90K or 7 yrs) replace it also.
 
A factory installed gasket, I'd used without hesitation. Remember to lube the new O-ting with soapy water (dove dish soap is great) and torque inlet to 13ft-lbf. I'd also use new gasket for thermostat. If thermostat old (90K or 7 yrs) replace it also.

thanks LC. I just spoke with the parts dept where I bought this and sent them the pic. They'll show a few techs and see if they know anything about it, but there is no TSB on the new part number, and no FSM revision.

I do have a new thermostat and gasket, and will lube the o ring.
 
thanks LC. I just spoke with the parts dept where I bought this and sent them the pic. They'll show a few techs and see if they know anything about it, but there is no TSB on the new part number, and no FSM revision.

I do have a new thermostat and gasket, and will lube the o ring.

Was going to add that I also showed my mechanic, who is a Toyota certified master technician, a picture from an ebay listing with that factory-installed gasket, and he hadn't ever seen one before.
 
Some parts say like hose clamps. Come with a clip to make install easier. I suspect that the case here. They add the FIPG of corrected amount and type for easy of assembly.

What I find interesting is it implies we can let FIPG cure than assembly. Not that I would here. But when we find some pitting at a water gasket seal point. Say like water bypass joint on head side, or on block where water pump seats. These places use a gasket with a rubbery (perhaps silicone) like seal.

What I've suggested in mud to others, but not tried. Is to clean pits and apply 1282B FIPG. Than scrap flush with razor before FIPG sets up (within 3 minutes). I feel more confident doing this now, I see your new part has pre sealant on it.
 
the fact that your pic of that square o ring has a start and stop point clearly seen means that I wouldn't use it as a final assembly. I'd still remove and work as instructed in the past, it's proven to work and will work with a fresh bead.

I'd be scared of calling that a pre sealant pre applied liquid gasket or anything usable. It has a ridge where the stop start is? (left side middle)
square o rings don't look like that, ever.
 
the fact that your pic of that square o ring has a start and stop point clearly seen means that I wouldn't use it as a final assembly. I'd still remove and work as instructed in the past, it's proven to work and will work with a fresh bead.

I'd be scared of calling that a pre sealant pre applied liquid gasket or anything usable. It has a ridge where the stop start is? (left side middle)
square o rings don't look like that, ever.

this was actually my initial thought... but then my thought/concern was what if there's no groove under there?

will a fresh bead of FIPG work well if there's no groove?
 
Seems you've talked yourself out of using as is. So pull it off the seal. I'll bet it has the groove.

Me, I would try it as is. If it did leak, I re-due!
 
Seems you've talked yourself out of using as is. So pull it off the seal. I'll bet it has the groove.

Me, I would try it as is. If it did leak, I re-due!

this is where I'm at right now.

I'm going to try it as-is. If it leaks... well it's not like I've got anywhere to be for a few weeks. I'll pull the pre-made gasket and redo it with FIPG (or spend time rehabbing the old part)

If it doesn't leak, we'll all know for future purposes.
 
I'll take leak at factory torque for 100 Alex.
Seriously though, I hope it doesn't leak.
 
I'll take leak at factory torque for 100 Alex.
Seriously though, I hope it doesn't leak.

I honestly don't think 13 ft-lbs is going to compress this like it would fresh FIPG.

I'll see if the surfaces don't mate perfectly at 13 lbs.

I was hoping to find a TSB on this p/n with a new torque value
 
FSM torque spec should be just fine. Snug each side uniformly a little at a time until 13ft-lbf. If it then weeps, kick up torque 1-2ft-lbf at a time. Don't go too high. These bolts are threaded into aluminium.
 
@2001LC this thread is pure gold , thanks for your work.

Now that its getting warmer out here in Montana, I can go stare in my engine bay and go OCD over every tiny hose cracking and possible leaks =]
 
I'm getting some conflicting information on the part number for this o-ring, can anyone confirm what the correct number is?
The first picture has O-ring and FIPG 1282B. So I'm not sure what you're looking for in PN#. If you replacing the water inlet, than use your VIN # here www.partsouq.com. PN#'s VAR by year (engine/model.)
 

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