- Thread starter
- #181
Powder coating sticks to cardboard, right?
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Great build documentation and project. I am considering running the AC system in my 60 by bypassing the AC amplifier and using the GM ECU. Is this what you did? Did you have to give PSI special instructions? Any more details?
- Thread starter
- #184
Thanks! Yeah I bypassed the AC amplifier and low pressure switch near the evaporator and used the GM ECU.
I have a 2001 LM7 (Gen III). Definitely some differences between the Gen III and 4, so all of my notes here might not apply unless you've got the same motor and ecu.
When I ordered my harness from PSI I asked them to make the AC request analog. Then I used the button on the dash to send 12v to the GM ecu indicating AC on through C2:17. The ecu then sends a ground out of C2:43 which I used to trigger a relay and send 12v to the compressor. I also grounded C2:55.
For safety I interrupted the ground side of the compressor with a binary switch so if the pressure is too high or too low it will cut the ground and stop the compressor. I had an AC shop braze a fitting onto the line, but you can also pull the plug out of the evaporator/dryer and thread the switch in there as well.
I get idle up when I turn on the AC and I'd assume it cuts the compressor when at WOT though I have never tried to confirm that.
Hope this helps. Below are my notes and links from when I was doing research on this. @dbbowen also knows a metric sh!t ton about this topic and talks about it in his Driveway LS Swap thread in case you haven't seen that.
NOTES:
C2-17 is Dk Grn/Wht - AC Request Signal (press button gets 12v sent to pam)
C2-43 is Dk Grn/Wht - AC clutch relay control (routed through high/low pressure switch)
C2:55 - Ground
C2 pin 55 ground
Ls1tech info for Geniii
A/C Request: This is a signal input to the PCM indicating the drivers request for a/c activation. It is a 12v+ positive signal on Pin 17 on C2 PCM connector,
(Not going to use) - Cycling Switch: On 1999-02 Trucks this is a signal input to the PCM indicating sufficient pressure on the low (suction) side of the A/C system for A/C operation. The cycling switch will provide a GROUND on pin 55 of the C2 PCM connector.
A/C Clutch Relay Control: This is a signal the PCM will send to activate a relay in the fuse block, that will in turn activate the A/C Compressor Clutch. This signal is a GROUND and is ONLY to be used to activate a relay. It is ALWAYS on pin 43 of C2 PCM connector.
I may be wrong, but I think Dubs is one of the few people to actually do this after i posted my thread and it works great. Dudes a gentleman and a scholar
You should cut and paste this to your LA swap thread with credit to Dubs of course
- Thread starter
- #187
haha as flattering as that is, I am merely standing on other's shoulders with this stuff. dbbowen did the real legwork.You should cut and paste this to your LA swap thread with credit to Dubs of course
This solution going to work for your setup?
Mdej3
SILVER Star
Nice progress. Following.
Mdej3
SILVER Star
Any spacers on your steelies?
- Thread starter
- #191
yeah 1.5" on the rear, with the tundra brakes without spacers up front.
- Thread starter
- #192
Had a chance to start swapping fender headlight brackets to get my new-to-me fender painted and bolted up. Found a slightly concerning situation on the seam underneath, along with a missing drain hose. Shockingly my drains were clear, though. Making me wonder what is under the passenger fender as well.
Some weather coming in, so going to be a few weeks before I'll be putting any paint down in the garage unfortunately. Upside is that I can swap my weeping PS line out without leaning over/under the fender....
Some weather coming in, so going to be a few weeks before I'll be putting any paint down in the garage unfortunately. Upside is that I can swap my weeping PS line out without leaning over/under the fender....
- Thread starter
- #193
Finally had time to wrap up this fender swap. Color is a touch creamier than the rest of the rig, but once it gets some sun/dirt/snow/salt on it hopefully it will be less noticeable. When I did my gutters I had a can of paint mixed based off of my gas filler door and it looks exactly the same as this paint which was mixed using the 045 paint code. Oh well. Still looks 98% better than my cracked and dented fender that was on the truck before.
Headlight bracket swap went smooth thanks to those slick spot weld drill bits. I used @Bullzi 's excellent and detailed thread for pointers. I didn't want to pull the door, so my tape line is VERY obvious. Doubtful, but maybe a full respray down the road is possible.
Headlight bracket swap went smooth thanks to those slick spot weld drill bits. I used @Bullzi 's excellent and detailed thread for pointers. I didn't want to pull the door, so my tape line is VERY obvious. Doubtful, but maybe a full respray down the road is possible.
Looks great!
- Thread starter
- #196
Feels good knowing it’s sealed up back there. I swapped a 60 fender onto my 62 so had to weld my 62 headlight bracket onto the 60 fender. They’re ever so slightly different.
I’ve got a pic somewhere comparing them. I’ll see if I can find it.
man you had the opportunity to switch over to the rounds!! join us
- Thread starter
- #198
Haha gotta draw the line somewhere. I would have seriously considered it had I not just upgraded my headlights and wiring harness.
Heresy! 4 eyes unite
