Cookie Cutter 5.3 Swap Into 62

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Also got the knock sensor replaced, and swapped in a new PS pump with filter. Lesson learned with the knock sensors – bench test before install. New pump is completely silent, thankfully.

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Also picked this little guy up as a project for next winter…
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Dubs2017 said:
Now that summer is in full force here in Utah I found some time to get my AC running. I wired it through the GM ECU with a binary switch interrupting the ground side of the compressor harness. Got it charged today. Was about 90 degrees in the garage, so am ok with a ~35 degree drop through the system at standstill.

View attachment 3674546

Also was chatting with @dbbowen about the purge solenoid and charcoal canister to try to manage the fuel system venting. I bought a new purge solendoid, and dug the vortec harness out of storage to get the plug. Wired it into C2:34 and pink to ign hot. Still had my charcoal canister and bracket from the 3FE so bolted it to some open fender space. Hoping this clears up the fuel smell and tank boiling issues I have had in hot weather.
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And the biggest update of all... When I had the harness tub out I grabbed the firewall gasket off of the 3fe harness to finally plug this large hole in my firewall.
Never did find a 2 1/8" plug any where for sale...
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Now to get my cruise control working.
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LETS FREAKING GO dude! Glad you got the AC sorted. I still cant believe you live in the desert and didnt have AC. Keep me updated on the Purge solenoid i still need to add mine back as well.


side note, did you paint your cruise stalk black? Mine is grey on the end. Yours looks really good
 
BurntToast said:
Very nice, we both have a similar winter project
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Perfect! You keeping the leafs?

Also, Re LED Blinker issues... when I had my dash apart yesterday I swapped in incandescent bulbs back into the dash indicators, and my blinker tap module is working perfectly with headlights on and off (with LED bulbs in the dash the blinker tap would not work correctly with the headlights on). I know you said that swapping those in didn't fix your issue, but, the only other variable I can think of is that I have @CruiserTrash 's LED flasher module installed. No idea if that could be the difference, but figured I would mention it.
 
dbbowen said:
LETS FREAKING GO dude! Glad you got the AC sorted. I still cant believe you live in the desert and didnt have AC. Keep me updated on the Purge solenoid i still need to add mine back as well.


side note, did you paint your cruise stalk black? Mine is grey on the end. Yours looks really good
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Seriously. It was only a year coming... ha. I'll let you know how the purge solenoid works. I drove a bit today and the fuel smell is definitely gone. Still having some bubbling coming from the tank at shutdown however. Haven't pulled the gas cap to see if it is in vacuum or not.

Yeah I did all black on the stalks, with the flat clear coat. Turned out better than I expected to be honest. I went back and forth on keeping the grey, but went black in the end.

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Dubs2017 said:
Perfect! You keeping the leafs?

Also, Re LED Blinker issues... when I had my dash apart yesterday I swapped in incandescent bulbs back into the dash indicators, and my blinker tap module is working perfectly with headlights on and off (with LED bulbs in the dash the blinker tap would not work correctly with the headlights on). I know you said that swapping those in didn't fix your issue, but, the only other variable I can think of is that I have @CruiserTrash 's LED flasher module installed. No idea if that could be the difference, but figured I would mention it.
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Rears will stay leafs for sure. As far as I can tell for road and mild off-road it’s a wash vs coils. Fronts depends more, but I don’t plan to wheel hard so it’s likely staying leafs too. What’s your plan?

Regarding the blinkers. They sort of work again but the tempo is odd. I also have his blinker module installed, but am running the Digi-Tails led rears too
 
BurntToast said:
Rears will stay leafs for sure. As far as I can tell for road and mild off-road it’s a wash vs coils. Fronts depends more, but I don’t plan to wheel hard so it’s likely staying leafs too. What’s your plan?

Regarding the blinkers. They sort of work again but the tempo is odd. I also have his blinker module installed, but am running the Digi-Tails led rears too
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Hmm. Shoot. Puzzling on that one.
 
BMValentine said:
ICT Billett sells a knock sensor relocation kit that moves them out of the valley so you don't have to take your intake off to change them. LS Gen III Knock Sensor Relocation Brackets LS1 LM7 LR4 LQ4 LS6 L59 LQ9 LM4 Valley - https://www.ictbillet.com/ls-gen-iii-knock-sensor-relocation-brackets-ls1-lm7-lr4-lq4-ls6-l59-lq9-lm4.html
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Great find! Thanks for sharing. If I have one go bad again will definitely be utilizing that part. Pulling the intake does indeed suck.
 
CruiserTrash said:
@Dubs2017 @BurntToast

Hold up, what’s going on? Sounds like some issues?
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Hey sorry - nothing crazy going on. Just some weird behavior with the blinkers. @BurntToast speaks about his issue in his thread here, but basically we are both running LED blinkers, your flasher module, as well as the "one touch" module by @LA Z. When I had LED's in the dash indicator sockets, and my headlights on, my one touch blinkers don't work correctly (they work fine with headlights off). I just swapped the dash bulbs back to incandescent and everything is working correctly now with headlights on and off. I'm not smart enough to know why this is happening, so am going to move on to other simpler problems since everything is working fine.

My other more pressing issue right now is some strange idle surging. Truck will run fine down the road, but when I come to a stop or am doing low speed driving in parking lots for example, the motor will rev up to about 1100rpm (no throttle). Once I put it in park it will stay around 1100rpm for 10-30 seconds than will come back down to a normal idle ~600-650rpm.

Throttle body is clean, has new intake manifold gasket, and I sprayed carb cleaner all over the place and didn't hear any change to idle. I guess it could be a vacuum leak, but I have a new TPS on order and will see if that resolves it. Any other obvious things to check? Need to unplug and plug all the sensor wire connectors in just to be sure as well.
 
Dubs2017 said:
Hey sorry - nothing crazy going on. Just some weird behavior with the blinkers. @BurntToast speaks about his issue in his thread here, but basically we are both running LED blinkers, your flasher module, as well as the "one touch" module by @LA Z. When I had LED's in the dash indicator sockets, and my headlights on, my one touch blinkers don't work correctly (they work fine with headlights off). I just swapped the dash bulbs back to incandescent and everything is working correctly now with headlights on and off. I'm not smart enough to know why this is happening, so am going to move on to other simpler problems since everything is working fine.

My other more pressing issue right now is some strange idle surging. Truck will run fine down the road, but when I come to a stop or am doing low speed driving in parking lots for example, the motor will rev up to about 1100rpm (no throttle). Once I put it in park it will stay around 1100rpm for 10-30 seconds than will come back down to a normal idle ~600-650rpm.

Throttle body is clean, has new intake manifold gasket, and I sprayed carb cleaner all over the place and didn't hear any change to idle. I guess it could be a vacuum leak, but I have a new TPS on order and will see if that resolves it. Any other obvious things to check? Need to unplug and plug all the sensor wire connectors in just to be sure as well.
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What’s a “one touch”?
 
Got the new TPS swapped in. Pretty sure that was the root of the idle surging problem. Comparing the old and new, there was zero "return" pressure on the original, whereas the new one would spring back if I spun the center. Nothing obviously broken on the inside. Who knows.

I did an idle relearn based on this and this and this, and from what I have read on the various GM forums the computer will take a few cycles to settle things out. I'd also like to chat with the tuner about this, but am waiting until I have time to get the intake pipe modified to a larger diameter before I schedule that.

In the meantime, truck is running well and AC is still ice cold.

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Finally got my center console mounted over the rear heater using nutserts and a couple of brackets.

I've got 2 very small kids, so rear heater will be a must in the coming years. I still need to build a heater surround, and cut some holes for car play wiring and rear seat power, but glad to have it solidly mounted for the first time in a year.

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BurntToast said:
What are you planning for the heater switch? I have mine tucked around near the level lever and it looks like crap
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Ha. Exactly where my switch is now as well. I've got grand plans of putting something like this cardboard mock up together. I think the same shop that built my radiator fan shroud box will be able to bend it up for me pretty easily and then find the closest powder coating to the tuffy finish I can. I'll notch the switch into it somewhere. I'd like to avoid having to extend it into the actual center console if possible.

Other challenge will be the coolant flow lever. I have it bent down right now, but am puzzling a way to either extend it into the console, or make a clean spot for it to come out towards the rear. This thread, and this thread have a few well done solutions, but I don't have the original hot or hotter "box" unfortunately.

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Dubs2017 said:
Ha. Exactly where my switch is now as well. I've got grand plans of putting something like this cardboard mock up together. I think the same shop that built my radiator fan shroud box will be able to bend it up for me pretty easily and then find the closest powder coating to the tuffy finish I can. I'll notch the switch into it somewhere. I'd like to avoid having to extend it into the actual center console if possible.

Other challenge will be the coolant flow lever. I have it bent down right now, but am puzzling a way to either extend it into the console, or make a clean spot for it to come out towards the rear. This thread, and this thread have a few well done solutions, but I don't have the original hot or hotter "box" unfortunately.

View attachment 3691452View attachment 3691453
Click to expand...
I say leave it cardboard dubs! Lol
 
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