- Thread starter
- #61
Right? I keep complaining I don't have my trailer yet ... I'm ignoring the fact I have a pile of parts to reinstall on the truck that goes on the trailer.
Builds Continued Adventures of Sweet Brown (1 Viewer)
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- Jul 22, 2012
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this thread is a hilarious mix of what happens when OCD Toyota nerd meets an actual used trail rig 
- Thread starter
- #63
Wouldn't be an issue if I knew what parts went in to the truck. That's definitely been the biggest challenge. The number of "****, wrong part" moments has been high.this thread is a hilarious mix of what happens when OCD Toyota nerd meets an actual used trail rig
- Thread starter
- #64
Not that i disagree with the OCD assessment.
Sexy new ARP flange studs on new OEM hubs.
Sexy new ARP flange studs on new OEM hubs.
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Next time, just send the hubs to me and have me machine them and your drive flanges for 7/16” ARP. Way stronger, cheaper, and no more cone washers.
- Thread starter
- #66
I have the original OEMs - I might do just that.
- Thread starter
- #67
And since we're on the OCD band wagon, i had the front shaft rebuilt since the front end was torn down and it was out anyway. Balance was way off according to the shop, so hopefully it (largely) cures the driveline vibe.
What's involved in machining these for new studs? Just drilling and tapping the holes to accept the new size or do you have to do more to the hub?
- Thread starter
- #69
Assuming the drive flange needs to be machined too.
Yeah, but isn't that just more of the same, open up the existing holes to fit the new studs? Really just wondering what is done to eliminate the cone washers.
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There’s a big thread about it already.
- Thread starter
- #72
Front end went back together with a few hiccups. Turns out the Toyota 9.5" front 3rd is running a semi-float ARB RD153, which has a puck in the center of it to stop axles from losing their c-clips (I assume). Also means the inner shafts can't push far enough in to the housing to allow the covers to screw down on the drive flanges - wouldn't be an issue with a full float locker since there's plenty of splines on the axle and plenty of room in the center of the locker for the axle to protrude.
So, either I had to disassemble the 3rd member and somehow grind down the puck and hope that didn't mess with holding the spider gears in place, or cut the axle down ... Went with option #2.
Axle about 1/8" long and holding the cap off the hub with the grease zerk removed.
RCV outers, Branik inners - Cut 1/4" off the inners for both sides.
Killed 2 bandsaw blades trying to cut slow and cool. After advice from @Pascoscout I cut with a grinder, stopping frequently to spray with alcohol with a fan blowing on the assembly to cool everything and not bork the spline heat treatment. Axle temp reached a max of 125F during the cut.
Front end back together w/ new rotots, EBC pads, new OEM hubs, ARP hub studs and a new OEM caliper.
So, either I had to disassemble the 3rd member and somehow grind down the puck and hope that didn't mess with holding the spider gears in place, or cut the axle down ... Went with option #2.
Axle about 1/8" long and holding the cap off the hub with the grease zerk removed.
RCV outers, Branik inners - Cut 1/4" off the inners for both sides.
Killed 2 bandsaw blades trying to cut slow and cool. After advice from @Pascoscout I cut with a grinder, stopping frequently to spray with alcohol with a fan blowing on the assembly to cool everything and not bork the spline heat treatment. Axle temp reached a max of 125F during the cut.
Front end back together w/ new rotots, EBC pads, new OEM hubs, ARP hub studs and a new OEM caliper.
Looking good! What's next?
- Thread starter
- #74
240A alternator and Odyssey AGM are sitting on the bench and will be in next. Driver door fix and new glass for both after that (all in hand).
Next big thing on the agenda is a selectable locker for the rear end. Haven't fully decided what i want there yet and haven't given Gearworks $6k yet.
Seeing the ARP studs for the hub has anyone ventured into replacing the wheel studs with longer ones from ARP? They have a few in the correct thread pitch but not sure if they will seat correctly against the hub/rotor.
Don't forget the red in cab lights for night time convoluted map reading.
- Thread starter
- #77
Finally got around to installing the new oil pressure sender and sender harness, 270A alternator and AGM battery.
Sender and harness were straight forward. Old one had a plug missing. Figured new was easier than jury rigging since they're still available.
Shiny new AGM with Moroso terminals
DC Power Engineering alternator
Alternator install sucked. Man there's a lot of crap in the way. Definitely not a 30 min change on a domestic. With modifications and a lot of swearing it took the better part of 6 hours.
Sender and harness were straight forward. Old one had a plug missing. Figured new was easier than jury rigging since they're still available.
Shiny new AGM with Moroso terminals
DC Power Engineering alternator
Alternator install sucked. Man there's a lot of crap in the way. Definitely not a 30 min change on a domestic. With modifications and a lot of swearing it took the better part of 6 hours.
FMC80
SILVER Star
That’s the prettiest alternator I’ve seen. The OG alternator is a pita in my opinion anyway. I like your terminals.
- Thread starter
- #79
When i called to order it they were trying to upsell me on either polishing it or anodizing in a color of my choice. They didn't understand why i thought that was funny.
That's a nice alternator! Is it a straight OEM swap, no other mods needed?
