Cone Washer Removal - Need Help (1 Viewer)

[1979 FJ40ish]

I'm attempting to service the front axle on my 79 FJ40 but I can't remove 2 of the 4 cone washers that secure the steering arm. I've tried tapping the housing with a hammer, heat with a torch and liquid wrench. I can't get them to break free and I can't get the steering arm to budge with them in place.

Can anyone offer some tips on how to break the cones free?

 

[Jdc1]

Kroil and a brass drift on the stud worked for me. Good Luck.

 

[GHalll]

Back the nuts off enough to protect the top threads and hit them with the below brass drift..

Mayhew Pro 25076 1/2-Inch Knurled Brass Drift Punch Mayhew Pro 25076 1/2-Inch Knurled Brass Drift Punch - Hand Tool Punches - Amazon.com

 

[Nomis]

Agreed. You have to hit them harder than you would think. Something about the harmonics/vibration that pops them out.

 

[GRM]

I smack the top of the stud with a brass hammer, the then hammer a small screwdriver in the slot of the cone washer.

 

[hobbes]

best way to remove cone washers?

 

[Pin_Head]

Man up and smack the arm up and down with a BFH. They will come off. The Toyota way is to use a tiny chisel point punch and put it in the slot of the cone washer and drive it down to expand the cone. This works well, but it requires the special punch.

 

[MOTOV8R]

Man up and smack the arm up and down with a BFH. They will come off. The Toyota way is to use a tiny chisel point punch and put it in the slot of the cone washer and drive it down to expand the cone. This works well, but it requires the special punch.

I took a cheap flat head screwdriver and ground it so it wasn't as wide at the tip (angled to match the taper of the cone). Sharpened the end a little and use it like the factory tool. Have a small one for hubs and a large one for arms.

 

[45Kevin]

All of the above have worked for me at times. I have also smacked the side of the housing. Once you have figured it out, it is easy.

 

[Downey]

I don't know if this will work on your steering knuckles, but the way we use to get the cone washers out of the locking hubs was to take a socket slightly larger than the cone washer, center it over the cone washer, and rap it with a hammer (sledge hammer if needed). Shocking the area around the cones knocked them loose.

 

[jamesurq]

pneumatic chisel - pointy one. Back out the nut until it's slightly above the bolt - this creates a little divot to put the chisel in. Insert chisel and lightly push.

 

[Blue77FJ40]

x2 on the Kroil and a brass drift on the stud. Brass hammer on the stud if you have one wouldn't hurt either. For extra security, you could thread a nut on the stud until it's almost level with the stud's top before whacking.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

It doesnt get any easier than this -

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

pneumatic chisel - pointy one. Back out the nut until it's slightly above the bolt - this creates a little divot to put the chisel in. Insert chisel and lightly push.

I cut the chisel so there is only a stub and slide a piece of hose over the end to keep it from walking on the stud. Done it that for many years and never lost a cone washer battle.

 

[Blue77FJ40]

Do you have a better picture of the chisel stub and where you are placing the chisel point? Kinda hard to see in that video. It does give one an appreciation of the speed of the process, though.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Do you have a better picture of the chisel stub and where you are placing the chisel point? Kinda hard to see in that video. It does give one an appreciation of the speed of the process, though.

Hard to see get off your phone No more pics but it is straight forward and simple. Just cut the end off of the tool so you are left with just a ~3/8" shaft. Cut and slide a small piece of hose over the shaft, done!

The tool is available at Harbor Freight for ~$10

 

[Blue77FJ40]

Hard to see get off your phone No more pics but it is straight forward and simple. Just cut the end off of the tool so you are left with just a ~3/8" shaft. Cut and slide a small piece of hose over the shaft, done!

The tool is available at Harbor Freight for ~$10

Phone! Hah! My phone is circa 2002 with a postage stamp sized 'screen'. Can you say anachronistic? Can I even spell it?

I'm on an iMac 24". I'm guessing that you place the point in the slit like the FSM says to? I like the brass drift/hammer method, but am always open to learning new methods.

 

[GHalll]

As @Weber Sarge would say "stop hitting them with your purse" hahaha

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Phone! Hah! My phone is circa 2002 with a postage stamp sized 'screen'. Can you say anachronistic? Can I even spell it?

I'm on an iMac 24". I'm guessing that you place the point in the slit like the FSM says to? I like the brass drift/hammer method, but am always open to learning new methods.

You need my readers

No no it goes over the end of the stud once the nut and washer are removed. No question the brass drift will and does work but I have yet to miss it.

 

[jamesurq]

You can keep the nut on the end of the stud flush for a larger surface area. I like the rubber hose cushion idea - the chisel definitely puts a shine on the end of the stud without it.

Also mine is worn down to a flat tip - I don't know that I'd want to use a brand new pointy chisel.