- Thread starter
- #41
It's been a while since I've been on the forum - it must be transmission servicing time, eh?! 
Complete Transmission Flush DIY - VIDEO (1 Viewer)
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Overland Tailor
Boltripper
- Joined
- Jun 24, 2012
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Bravo- Nicely done
- Thread starter
- #45
Glad folks are still getting some use out of it!
Did I see a discussion somewhere about changing the filter after the exchange, if so, I can't seem to find it again. I believe it recommended changing it after the exchange so it filters all the old fluid/junk and then start with a fresh filter. Any thoughts on this?
You have to drop the pan to get to the filter. I would do it first if you want to change the filter.
Yes, I have performed exchanges on my 80 and 100, never a 200, and I've always dropped the pan and changed the filter first. I thought I read a thread or post somewhere that mentioned changing the filter after and refiling the pan that way the old screen filters any junk out during the exchange and you start with new fluid and a fresh screen/filter.
In theory, there should not be any "junk" as this is a completely sealed system. The only thing in there should be minimal, very fine clutch pack material that is suspended in the fluid and is unlikely to be removed by or caught in the strainer anyway. A majority of this will be removed when the fluid is replaced.
I've always done filter first followed by a simple refill or a similar fluid exchange exercise. Granted, I have yet to do it on my LX as I just got the parts but i don't see why this would be different. You would also be wasting 4-5 qts of fluid replacing the fluid first, since by the time you have clean fluid coming out, you also have clean fluid in the pan, which you would need to dump when you drop the pan. I'd be interested in hearing the arguments for doing it differently though.
Thank you for the input and the new video.
ranma21
Supporting Vendor
Did my 200 today with Amsoil. Snapped off one of the exposed corner pan bolts in the rear, along with a couple of the skid plate bolts (smaller ones at front). Brushed the corner pan bolts and sprayed penetrant on them for two days prior, no good on that one corner. Tried extracting bolt and the extractor broke off inside the bolt. That made drilling it out even more fun. Ended up cutting it off flush, drilling it out and rethreading it with a 6x1.0 tap. Had to heat the check plug on the pan to get it out after trying with an allen and a cheater wrench. I just didn't want to force it after breaking off so many bolts. Installed a new screen/filter and reused the original gasket. It looked pristine and made to last a life time, so I wiped it down and oiled it prior to reinstall. Vinyl hoses for refilling and draining are no bueno if you buy the ones that are precut and rolled. The kinks/bends don't come out, even after heating them, and the ATF doesn't flow well down the kinked tubing. 3/8 ID rubber hose stays straight and flexible and fits snugly in refill side plug on tranny and works on the radiator outlet flange for drainage. My fluid, with about 101k, was grayish red. There was a little residue/sludge on the pan magnets.
For those of you who’ve dropped the pan - what’d you use to do it and how? I tried a few different tools ranging from putty knife/flat blade screw driver/ gasket knife + hammer and I still wasn’t able to pry the gasket from the transmission housing... it doesn’t help that the exhaust and driveshaft get in the way to get some real force in there but from what I can tell - there’s some orange RTF sealant in place from factory to ensure the fluid never leaks so prying it off requires some force.
I did break off the head of one of the rear corner bolts... came of one handed and was so easy since the bolt was heavily corroded as it’s exposed to the elements. Gonna have to drill it out...yikes. Not fun. Probably needs a re-tap M6...
I did break off the head of one of the rear corner bolts... came of one handed and was so easy since the bolt was heavily corroded as it’s exposed to the elements. Gonna have to drill it out...yikes. Not fun. Probably needs a re-tap M6...
I replaced the ATF with the flush method but didn’t have time to drop the pan and change the screen. Hearing the nightmares above maybe I’ll just skip that step????
Did anyone spray with Kroil ahead of time and got all the bolts out?
Did anyone spray with Kroil ahead of time and got all the bolts out?
Man I just went through this pain today - broken rear corner bolt was a real PITA.... snapped the bolt extractor and spent about an hour trying to drill out the extractor but when I realized I'd be doing more harm than good to the trans-housing I quit.... my drill bits weren't a match for the vanadium steel extractor head. I ended up dremel'ing what was left of the exposed bolt and extractor flush with the trans housing and replaced everything.... I used some light RED RTV to make decent seal seal.
We'll find out tomorrow once everything dries if the system seals well with a corner bolt missing....
BTW... a guy at the auto parts store turn me on to trying a razor blade to break the seal an inch at a time and it worked like a charm.... Took me 45 mins but it came off eventually. There actually wasn't any sealant used on the gasket.... the gasket was basically fused via heat cycles, pressure from the torque'd bolts and time. Hope this helps someone else in the future.
