GTV
SILVER Star
Well then just put spacers under your current set up.
I’m curious as to why you suggest spacers instead of the coils.
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Well then just put spacers under your current set up.
Generally 20 year old stock rigs have a 20" center of hub to bottom of flare measurement.This thread is uber long and if someone could point me to the correct post, that'd be great. I'm looking for hub center to fender flare measurements for the 3" lifted *heavy* rigs.
Thanks.
Im sorry, I dont know of any company's that make a silver 2" lift coil.Hi! I'm new here... Been lurking for a while.
Anyone have any idea what springs these might be? My Late 1992 HDJ81 came over from Japan with this 2" lift on it. Measured almost exactly 4" between front bump and spring follower. Has Bilstein F4-B46-1477-H1 shocks.
Will you tell us what are the fronts & rear shocks & what lift they are for?Recently swapped from 4" Tough Dog Coils to the 2" Dobinsons Tapered. While doing so I saw how much more droop I could gain from long travel shocks, mostly in the front. I have 45mm 9 stage adjustable Tough Dog Shocks currently, so I reached out to David from Dobinsons and he said the Remote Reservoir shocks will come available in 3 way adjustable in about 2 months for the 80 series. The lengths are as follows:
45-912 - 15.25"-26.50"
59-687 - 16.00"-26.80"
684 16.53"-28.90"
685 17.00"-28.90"
pics of old TD vs new Dobinsons:
View attachment 2201430
View attachment 2201432
I have Tough Dog 45mm Adjustables meant for 4" lift.Will you tell us what are the fronts & rear shocks & what lift they are for?
Making the rear cone bumps work up front could be a bit of improvement for sure, but the design of the bump itself is still fairly stiff. So far I've been really impressed with the Timbren bumps I'm using. They are closer to 2" of crush and from what I can tell are more "progressive" than the stock ones. They have definitely softened up the big bottom outs.I have been playing with the stock OEM rear cone bumps up front.
The idea is to soften the hard hit when the front end bottoms out.
I call them poor boy air bumps.
I have been running a 1" hockey puck with stock front bump stops.
The rear cone bumps sit 1" higher than the stock OEM fronts with vehicle wieght on them.
After a few field tests in the whoops section, my zip tie's on the shock shafts moved down approx .25" more.
So that is now .75" taller than stock.
Here is my findings:
View attachment 2194920View attachment 2194922View attachment 2194923
View attachment 2194931
Those are very nice bumps. Thank you for the share.Making the rear cone bumps work up front could be a bit of improvement for sure, but the design of the bump itself is still fairly stiff. So far I've been really impressed with the Timbren bumps I'm using. They are closer to 2" of crush and from what I can tell are more "progressive" than the stock ones. They have definitely softened up the big bottom outs.
These are called the Active Offroad Bumpstops by Timbren.
Timbren Bump Stops - Active Off-Road Progressive Bumpstops
Timbren Active Off-Road Bumpstops are designed to allow for proper deflection of the suspension. Provides a damping response when the suspension bottoms out. Shop now.timbren.com
The front ones are working well for me without modification. The rears come with a very tall steel tower. Proper height can vary from one truck to the next, but in checking for accurate height on my truck I removed ~1.75" from the tower to get them to the right height for my lift and 37's.
I take back the "no modification" comment. These come with a round cup that goes between the rubber bumpstop and the frame bracket. I trimmed the sides off the cups so that they don't make contact with the coils in the front and with the tire in the rear.
trimmed cups
Suspension by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
Suspension by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
Front timbren
Suspension by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
Not fully compressed rear.
37’s and bumpstops by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
This is the rear bump before cutting 1.75" out of the tower.
37’s and bumpstops by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
Well... I didn't give up. I kept on trying to figure out what these springs are and I noticed that on one spring there was some writing that looks like it has mostly disappeared from the other springs.
Exhibit A:
View attachment 2207634
So I started trying to look around on the internet and for a while I found absolutely nothing. Then I stumbled upon this post in Russian:
Diorama Device (замена задних пружин) или еще немножко "растишки"
Всех приветствую! Знакомо то чувство, когда время от времени чешутся руки, что нибудь поделать с машинкой? Пусть не глобальное, не масштабное, но тем не менее. Но то не хватает времени, то лень-матушк…www.drive2.com
Translation of pertinent bits:
The company is widely known in narrow circles. Diorama Device , arrived from Japan
Progressive winding (variable pitch), bar diameter 16 mm, total spring length 49.5 mm
I'm not sure if these are the exact springs as it looks like this person was probably installing them on a Prado, and mine don't appear to be progressive... I'm not versed enough on the differences to know if these springs could be interchangeable. These appear to be "Diorama Device" springs from Japan. I also found another russian website similar looking to ebay selling gold colored "Diorama Device" springs here(which also claim to be 2" lift springs from Japan): Пружины Diorama Device Toyota Land Cruiser HDJ81V (LegoCar) - GT и тюнинг в Находке
There's absolutely zero official info I can find online about these things other than they appear to have originated from Japan. So they seem to be quite the rare oddity.
Im sorry, I dont know of any company's that make a silver 2" lift coil.
Is that a fact? I cant confirm or deny that. We would need an OG 80 owner to chime in.Slee used to have a 2.5 lift with silver springs.
Is that a fact? I cant confirm or deny that. We would need an OG 80 owner to chime in.