Been trying to figure out the cause of this to no avail so far. It's speed dependent and applying the brakes doesn't quiet it. Clicks when going straight or right, disappears when any kind of left steering input is applied. Put it up on the lift this weekend and couldn't find anything. Thought maybe it was a wheel bearing but no movement in out at top/bottom/right/left of each front wheel. Put it in N and nothing audible when spinning wheels. Also started it and put it in D and let it spin, nothing. Any ideas of what I can check next?
clicking from front end, need input (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter erwall
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CV axles.
- Thread starter
- #3
I did slide the outer boots off and injected w/new grease, maybe too late for that or maybe the inner boots. Sucks, just did brakes and wheel bearings on it last year. If the clicking stops when turning left, what side does that usually indicate the problem is?
EDIT: Any recommendation on what brand axles to get? Figured just replace both if that's def the problem.
EDIT: Any recommendation on what brand axles to get? Figured just replace both if that's def the problem.
That it’s the cv’s
What's the mileage on your truck?
Personally, I'd replace the pair at the same time, but that could also be cost-prohibitive. I'd recommend OEM parts and nothing else for these. Had an aftermarket installed last year and it failed in pretty short time. Replaced both with OEM and have had no issues.
Just an FYI I had a clicking CV on the DS for over a year. I replaced it this summer with OEM, the clicking is still happening. I have seen one post one time that somebody mentioned a brake clip causing it on theirs, but have not found that thread again.
- Thread starter
- #8
Thanks, I don't want to blow $800+ and it still happens. When you replaced the axle, you didn't see anything wonky with the brake caliper, etc?
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
I would put it up on a lift/stands and rotate things, isolate the noise before you drop a bunch on axles. Someone had what they thought were *definitely* CVs clicking and turned out to be the inner fender liner rubbing against the tire.
I also have a clicking noise when turning right at lower speeds. I took it to the dealer. I had replaced both axles with new oems, flanges, bearings, brakes and rotors. None of that fixed it. Also replaced the steering rack myself. I did not do all this trying to fix a noise btw but hoped it would help.
Wonder if AHC would cause any noise like this?
Following.
Wonder if AHC would cause any noise like this?
Following.
You replaced the steering rack hoping to quiet a cyclical clicking sound?
No, there's nothing that rotates in the AHC system that would cause the same kind of click as a bad CV. Think about what we're diagnosing: something that is obviously turning relative to ground speed. That eliminates anything in the vehicle that doesn't turn/rotate relative to ground speed (but still considers a part that interacts with something that does rotate, like a fender liner rubbing a tire).
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- Thread starter
- #12
I did that, put it up on the lift and spun things, put in gear and let it go, etc and heard nothing. I'm guessing there has to be a sufficient load on it for it to make the noises.
No, the rack was leaking after about two years of watching it so felt it was time.
How does the adaptive suspension work?
AHC uses sensors and pressures to determine how much fluid to pump into the "shocks" at all 4 corners. The only moving parts are the pistons in the "shocks" that will move up and down (moving parts from the pump notwithstanding).
- Thread starter
- #15
Don't flame me for this but anyone know if the Napa axles are any good? They do sell NEW axles, not reman.
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
OEM or don't bother is the popular consensus in these parts
One of the spring clips that sits on the back side of the caliper had popped out of it's hole and looked to have been rubbing around. I put it back, not sure if it's still in position. The clicking came back within a few days.
i am also in the about to overhaul the front end because of a click - boat. mine is a click on the right side. same thing, clicks when driving straight, any speed really, rotational with the tire/speed. bearings will get redone first. the last person in there was a hack. also have lower ball joints and new aftrmkt UCAs. current UCA joints seemed fine, lower BJs have some play. rack and rod ends are nearly new. i know the splines on my CVs are sloppy enough. i just cant really afford the $900 for the new axles. its a pretty defined metal on metal click though.
for the OP, you do not need to disassemble the hub/rotor to replace axles. the hub/rotor/knuckle unbolts from the BJ's and steering linkage and is set aside, though probably heavy as a mf'er.
for the OP, you do not need to disassemble the hub/rotor to replace axles. the hub/rotor/knuckle unbolts from the BJ's and steering linkage and is set aside, though probably heavy as a mf'er.
Check the hub drive flanges to see if they are worn. Also that the clips in the end of the axle don't have more than the specified play.
Another thing to check is the u-joints in front driveshaft.
Another thing to check is the u-joints in front driveshaft.
How long has it been making the noise? How loud is it? Does it do it only at low speeds or all the time?
Are you planning to keep the vehicle stock or lift it? Is it a daily driver or is it an extra vehicle? How many miles do you drive a year and how long do you plan to keep it? Do you off road, tow, etc, often?
If you are going to do the work, it's entirely reasonable to use a quality aftermarket CV on a stock vehicle that gets moderate use. You also said it's a rust bucket, so depending on how bad it truly is the ROI isn't there on OEM parts. The NAPA cvs sound to have worked for a few people here just fine. You may have to replace them again down the road. The P.O. of my LC had aftermarket CVs in it for 50k with no issue after a shop foolishly didn't rebuild the OEM ones when the boots tore. As soon as I lifted it they had vibrations, but otherwise were a perfectly fine part.
If you're paying someone to do the work, or if you expect them to last another 100k+, or are lifting it, or subjecting it to hard off-road use, I'd go OEM.
If it's only been clicking a few days and you don't feel it from the driver's seat, you might look if you've got an object stuck in a tire or even a bad tire.
Are you planning to keep the vehicle stock or lift it? Is it a daily driver or is it an extra vehicle? How many miles do you drive a year and how long do you plan to keep it? Do you off road, tow, etc, often?
If you are going to do the work, it's entirely reasonable to use a quality aftermarket CV on a stock vehicle that gets moderate use. You also said it's a rust bucket, so depending on how bad it truly is the ROI isn't there on OEM parts. The NAPA cvs sound to have worked for a few people here just fine. You may have to replace them again down the road. The P.O. of my LC had aftermarket CVs in it for 50k with no issue after a shop foolishly didn't rebuild the OEM ones when the boots tore. As soon as I lifted it they had vibrations, but otherwise were a perfectly fine part.
If you're paying someone to do the work, or if you expect them to last another 100k+, or are lifting it, or subjecting it to hard off-road use, I'd go OEM.
If it's only been clicking a few days and you don't feel it from the driver's seat, you might look if you've got an object stuck in a tire or even a bad tire.
