Information needed for front end alignment (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I used Nolathane rack bushings. I watched a Youtube video by user ChowCares on the bushing replacement and these are what he used. I also hear Whiteline is a good brand. I do not have stock suspension but I do have a a larger than factory rake like you do. My front is 21.5 and the rear is 23 and 3/8. I believe the factory rake is more along the lines of .75 to 1 inch.

For the deadplay in the steering, check the linkage that connects the wheel to the rack. Someone posted that they found a bolt loose that caused this.
Great information thanks for sharing .

Other than your steering recenter and sloppy feeling , were you also struggling to get alignment dialed in / issues with front caster or was that not a concern ?
 
I didn't read the entire thread but.... yes, the rear height (in relation to the front height) does affect caster. You have 3-3.5" of rake. Your caster is not in spec. I would aim towards the upper end for caster personally but that would likely mean aftermarket UCA's. Look into "No Lift" rear springs by calling Cruiser Outfitters or Slee.

Tires though balanced can also have a pull. A shop with a Road Force machine can determine pull and rebalance the tires and/or place the tires accordingly on your 100 to reduce or eliminate tire pull.
Thanks for the reply, and the slight glimmer of hope that maybe my tall rear height is messing with my possible front adjustments . I've got the truck back at the shop now with a bunch more weight added to see if the results change.

Good call on the tires but I feel pretty confident I can cross that off the list. When the problem first started, I threw new tires on. Then convinced myself even those new tires were crap so sold em' and put another new set on but I will mention to the shop that maybe we can rotate / re-balance this set.
 
If you're going to need more than one alignment and have an iPhone you might want to consider this:


1740890529098.png


Below are the screenshots from my buddies pickup. First is after the specialty shop's alignment (which was causing significant feathering on his new Ridge Grapplers). And the second is after performing the alignment himself using the tool.
1740890705529.png
1740890815318.png

The spec wanted total in of 0.2 degrees and he was able to get it spot on.
When I install my new rack, I will be having him over for a beer....

Edit Just noticed they have a beta for android phones.
 
Last edited:
If you're going to need more than one alignment and have an iPhone you might want to consider this:


View attachment 3850693

Below are the screenshots from my buddies pickup. First is after the specialty shop's alignment (which was causing significant feathering on his new Ridge Grapplers). And the second is after performing the alignment himself using the tool.
View attachment 3850694 View attachment 3850695
The spec wanted total in of 0.2 degrees and he was able to get it spot on.
When I install my new rack, I will be having him over for a beer....

Edit Just noticed they have a beta for android phones.
Interesting , thanks for sharing that option . I was lucky enough to get the current shop to get it back up on the rack at no charge .

Recent update , they adjusted my torsion bars back down to around 19-19 1/2" up front . I was told this changed the amount of adjustment they were able to do on caster as well.

I was told it drives better but he did say he feels a slight pull right still

The truck is parked until Monday when I go pick it up and test drive. Any improvement will be a win for me and hopefully I can just move on because I dont want to throw any parts at this
 
New alignment printout below.
  • Dropped front end down to around 19-19 1/2"
  • Added weight to rear. These are the C59-185 Dobinsons coils with 500+lbs of payload
  • Vehicle still has 2+ inches of rake but not as bad as first attempt at alignment
I assume lowering the front end was the key to getting more adjustment out of my front end. I would also like to get coils that don't sit as high but that isn't a priority

Results
  • I'd say there is a noticeable improvement, like 80% better than before. The rig does still pull to the right BUT its a lot more subtle now and it doesn't take as much effort to keep me going straight. Its a lot easier to handle now and I can take my eyes off the road for a second without the vehicle swerving on me.
  • Based on these results, vehicle rake but more importantly how high the front end is sitting seems to have a clear impact on how good the vehicle tracks / can be aligned
  • I thought it was weird that the toe out specs on my rear end got better as well, maybe adding weight changes this? IDK

Thanks for all the replies mud world.

I wonder if it's safe to say, keep your cruisers as close to stock height as possible or prepare for your ride to possibly suffer and/or the need to swap out parts to adapt to the added lift.

1741028892876.png
 
If you're going to need more than one alignment and have an iPhone you might want to consider this:


View attachment 3850693

Below are the screenshots from my buddies pickup. First is after the specialty shop's alignment (which was causing significant feathering on his new Ridge Grapplers). And the second is after performing the alignment himself using the tool.
View attachment 3850694 View attachment 3850695
The spec wanted total in of 0.2 degrees and he was able to get it spot on.
When I install my new rack, I will be having him over for a beer....

Edit Just noticed they have a beta for android phones.
If that really works, at that price, I want one.
 
On your alignment sheet from page 2 your front toe was bad and they corrected it. But now on this alignment you're front toe was quite bad AGAIN and they corrected it. How much time or how many miles were between those two alignments?
 
On your alignment sheet from page 2 your front toe was bad and they corrected it. But now on this alignment you're front toe was quite bad AGAIN and they corrected it. How much time or how many miles were between those two alignments?
Thanks for noticing that , I also thought that was weird . Same observation of the non adjustable rear toe changing angle readouts between both sessions on the alignment rack

Very few miles , less than 100 between both alignment attempts

It would be nice to get it tracking straight and feeling better but its currently better than before and I'm out of mechanics / time to spend messing with it for now
 
Less than 100 miles? That is strange.

I would buy some tow plates. From there you can measure and adjust toe yourself if needed. I use them to check my vehicles instead of paying for an alignment if it isn't even needed. But last week I did correct the front toe slightly on my Honda Fit. But I'm motivated by trust issues (I don't trust shops).
 
I have the same right pull. Both before I pulled the frame for galvanization and after. All new bushings throughout - rack, control arms, if there is a bushing in this truck, I have replaced it (60+) with OEM, apart from the unavailable steering rack bushings, where I went with Whitelines.
It pulls to the right. The best, most thorough and recommended local alignment shop does not want to see me anymore, even though I am their most frequent paying customer lol.
I have seen several other similarly unfixable cases. At this point I consider it just as unfixable, as the D<>R clunk and have moved on.

My left hand is slightly stronger than my right hand from 6 years of pulling on the wheel.

1743842176284.png
 
Hahha hey man, totally I remember your build for sure ! The right hand pull is going to be the death of me.....I feel your pain, ive been to 6+ alignment shops multiple times over the past few years lol

Its just my guess / sort of recent experience but it seems that vehicle ride height , too much rake, and lack of much adjustment upper control arms all add up to less than ideal alignment . My rear end has a bit of toe out to the left, given the logic of rear steering that would push me right

In my opinion, I dont think oem or aftermarket rack bushings are even a concern here... Both of our rigs are using new parts and a bit of wiggle on the rack shouldnt cause this hard right pull

- Whats your most recent alignment sheet show ? Are the techs giving you any info on why it may be pulling or are they just like yeah its fine dont come back again

- What is your ride height?

- Is it just a slight pull, like would a normal person complain about it ? Or doe it require constant pull to keep it on the road ?
 
Last edited:
Maybe you have a brake caliper sticking/dragging. Unlikely but I thought I'd blurt it out. Haha
 
If frame not bent past correctability. Pull is correctable, as is D><R cluck.
Which I covered many of the causes in post #74
I have the same right pull. Both before I pulled the frame for galvanization and after.
Was farme measured?
All new bushings throughout - rack, control arms,
Were frame measurements within spec?
Were rear wheel alignment, within spec?
Are the knuckle straight?
When installing the frt LCA. Did you notice/recall if LCA fit relaxed into position, or was force needed against rubber of bushing to fit?
How many spacer used in LCA #2 bushing?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom