Help! Front end overhaul - new OEM CVs aren't staying in! (1 Viewer)

[SMLE]

Hi folks,

Our 2004 4.2TD 1HD-FTE Landcruiser has had all new UCA/LCA, wheel bearings, outer hubs, front knuckle bush (bronze), discs, pads etc - everything OEM!
The new OEM CVs (43430-60040) are seemingly not fitting correctly and are coming out of the diff side - we're just trying to bottom out if there is anything obvious we should be considering/that we could have overlooked? I wondered if they weren't being hit in substantially enough, but not sure.

I've seen a few videos suggesting the snap ring orientation needs to have the gap in the ring at 6 o'clock position? and the FSM suggests this too.

Videos added below in the link:

2 new videos · Thursday, May 8 ð¬

Tap to view!

photos.app.goo.gl

Anyone have ideas? @2001LC I know you've done a ton of these!

Thanks!

 

[scubadoober]

Are you certain the snap rings were in place before inserting them? Both are not functioning now, and you will need to pull and re-install. Did it take the same force you show in the video during the install? They should not be able to freely slide, and it takes a considerable force to seat the snap rings.

 

[SMLE]

Are you certain the snap rings were in place before inserting them? Both are not functioning now, and you will need to pull and re-install. Did it take the same force you show in the video during the install? They should not be able to freely slide, and it takes a considerable force to seat the snap rings.

The snap rings were fitted on the shafts before fitting, they came this way from factory too. Our guy is pulling this evening and refitting with the 6 oclock alignment of the gap in the snap ring and will give it some oomph! Apparently the shafts slid straight in, which suggests the snap rings did not engage.

Think this alignment of the rings is the issue?

Thanks

 

[blinkerfluid]

Snap rings not engaging could be a problem but axles pulling out from both sides is rare

If the knuckle / hub assembly has been correctly rebuilt and installed, all ball joints are correct and properly installed - check the length of the new CVs vs the old CVs. Also have you replaced the hub flanges? Check those too against the old ones. Best of luck

 

[SMLE]

Snap rings not engaging could be a problem but axles pulling out from both sides is rare

If the knuckle / hub assembly has been correctly rebuilt and installed, all ball joints are correct and properly installed - check the length of the new CVs vs the old CVs. Also have you replaced the hub flanges? Check those too against the old ones. Best of luck

Thanks, they will check the new CVs vs old CVs later, also the hub flanges. In this case the snap rings not engaging or the issue being on the diff side rather than the hub side is my suspicion, as the CVs aren't remaining in the diff and can be pulled out by hand, so I'm thinking this is a retaining issue e.g. snap rings not engaging/not aligned correctly.

 

[blinkerfluid]

Thanks, they will check the new CVs vs old CVs later, also the hub flanges. In this case the snap rings not engaging or the issue being on the diff side rather than the hub side is my suspicion, as the CVs aren't remaining in the diff and can be pulled out by hand, so I'm thinking this is a retaining issue e.g. snap rings not engaging/not aligned correctly.

It could also be a length issue or a difference in the hub flange, 100s have hub flanges with different stub lengths, this can cause the inner axle snap rings to not engage and pull out as well.

 

[SMLE]

Sorry, I think I described it badly, it's just pulling out/not engaging on the diff side from what I understand! Thanks

 

[blinkerfluid]

Yes, thats exactly what I am talking about

 

[scubadoober]

The snap rings were fitted on the shafts before fitting, they came this way from factory too. Our guy is pulling this evening and refitting with the 6 oclock alignment of the gap in the snap ring and will give it some oomph! Apparently the shafts slid straight in, which suggests the snap rings did not engage.

Think this alignment of the rings is the issue?

Thanks

It isn't a matter of orientation of the spring clip. You can see in the video where the dust shield is bottoming out on the seal. It is as if there is no snap ring in place. Meaning it wasn't there to start, or it has somehow come off during install. It would have engaged in the last 5mm before the dust shield on the CV contacted the differential housing seal. Interested to see what comes of this. Trusted shop?

 

[SMLE]

Hi folks,
This one has been figured out - thanks for your inputs.

The snap ring on both shafts was waaay too loose, to the point it could be pulled off the shaft with ease, they required bending to match the shape of the ones on the old CV axle, and this time around there was apparently a nice 'click' as they secured into place.

No clue why they came like that direct from Toyota but can only assume it was a friday afternoon jobby for someone on the production line who forgot to bend them into position to secure them.

Thanks!

 

[2001LC]

Hi folks,

Our 2004 4.2TD 1HD-FTE Landcruiser has had all new UCA/LCA, wheel bearings, outer hubs, front knuckle bush (bronze), discs, pads etc - everything OEM!
The new OEM CVs (43430-60040) are seemingly not fitting correctly and are coming out of the diff side - we're just trying to bottom out if there is anything obvious we should be considering/that we could have overlooked? I wondered if they weren't being hit in substantially enough, but not sure.

I've seen a few videos suggesting the snap ring orientation needs to have the gap in the ring at 6 o'clock position? and the FSM suggests this too.

Videos added below in the link:

2 new videos · Thursday, May 8 ð¬

Tap to view!

photos.app.goo.gl

Anyone have ideas? @2001LC I know you've done a ton of these!

Thanks!

View attachment 3901702

You say in video in " you can see, in perfectly" No I can't see. Do to the angle you shot.

I R&R diff side seals, when R&R FDS (AKA CV)
Snap ring open end down.
Do not reuse snap ring. 90521-34003 RING, SHAFT SNAP. FOR FR AXLE INBOARD JOINT SET.
You'll know, when locked in. When dust seal (Shield) is in past edge of diff.
You test that it's in, by pulling outward, to see if come out (not lock in)





Dust seal

Properly seated FDS, dust seal is in past edge of diff.

 

[SMLE]

You say in video in " you can see, in perfectly" No I can't see. Do to the angle you shot.

I R&R diff side seals, when R&R FDS (AKA CV)
Snap ring open end down.
Do not reuse snap ring. 90521-34003 RING, SHAFT SNAP. FOR FR AXLE INBOARD JOINT SET.
You'll know, when locked in. When dust seal (Shield) is in past edge of diff.
You test that it's in, by pulling outward, to see if come out (not lock in)

Thanks!

It wasn't me in the video, so apologies!

The snap rings came fitted (very loosely) straight from toyota, brand new. The mechanic had to close them more shut so they didn't just slide out of the groove on the end of the CV where they sit. He advised that after closing the snap rings (which then took a nice amount of resistance to get back onto the CV), they 'clicked' into place nicely after a bit of a push when refitting, but will send over your pics. They have a link to this thread so I'm sure they will see

I'm hopeful that if it's clicked into place and doesn't come out with some pulling (as you suggest), then they should stay in place moving forwards.

Have you ever had it where these snap rings came loose from factory?

 

[2001LC]

Thanks!

It wasn't me in the video, so apologies!

The snap rings came fitted (very loosely) straight from toyota, brand new. The mechanic had to close them more shut so they didn't just slide out of the groove on the end of the CV where they sit. He advised that after closing the snap rings (which then took a nice amount of resistance to get back onto the CV), they 'clicked' into place nicely after a bit of a push when refitting, but will send over your pics. They have a link to this thread so I'm sure they will see

I'm hopeful that if it's clicked into place and doesn't come out with some pulling (as you suggest), then they should stay in place moving forwards.

Have you ever had it where these snap rings came loose from factory?

All are somewhat loose. All inner FDS snap ring, are made with the same span. All come on new FDS, loose and without any blemish (marring). They collapse as they fit into front differential. Do not try to pre collapse (tighten) or expand.

I add grease into groove to help hold snap ring in place, with open end down. I also center side to side, and make the top of snap ring, level with axle groove. I use a boot clamps' pinch protrusion, as my orientation point, like a sight on a rifle. Placing sight on top. Just as I mention in video..

If, I must replace snap ring, with new. I simply place on top of axle groove, open end down. Then press or tap down onto/into groove. "Tap" on with a plastic hammer, so that I do not mar the snap rings surface. I do not use a snap ring expander pliers. Once used they become marred and compressed. Which inhibits reentry into it's locking position and ability to lock in differentials.

We do not want to mare, expand or compress the snap ring. It will compress on it's own, just before it seats (locks) within differential inner groove.

Snap ring, is so loose a fit, it moves freely in all direction.

I orienting FDS with clamps pinch protrusion up as my sight. Helps keep my bearings, as to snap ring open end down

I use grease (not this excessive) in snap rings groove to hold it open end down. I also grease diff oil seals race (inner large area just before dust seal)

I grease diff side oil seal.

Once FDS (AKA CV) in place and locked in diff. I place a 1"x"1" stick on LCA, hooked on back of LBJ, then rest FDS on it. This keeps outer FDS metal lip of seal from contacting LCA. Otherwise it will bend, very easily if makes contact with LCA.

Do not get too excessive with grease on inner axle. As it is going to mix with grease lube. Too much grease in gear lube, my result in excessive foaming.

 

[2001LC]

I also like to replace axle needle bearing and brass bushing. Which are in the knuckle. If I suspect past useful life. Old FDS axle scoring, where needle bearing rides, Is our best clue as to health of old needle bearing. The brass bushings thickness determine if it needs replacing. At minimum we must grease the needle bearing and brass bushing.

This axle needle bearing, is trashed.

Minor scoring on FDS axle from axle needle bearing. This bearing was bad, and made the very hardest to pin point rotational sound.

New needle bearing brass bushing and knuckle seal, installed a lubed ready for new FDS>

 

[2001LC]

I've, many post and videos on assembling wheel hubs (wheel bearings). The assembly must be done by the book. Or we risk damaging this expensive new FDS.

Assemble correctly all new front end parts, using "proper procedures. It will drive like new and last"
See my Master Thread Link in signature area below.