- Thread starter
- #41
Well s*** I called around and was quoted $850 to have the frame measured, that aint cheap.
Information needed for front end alignment
- Thread starter Mike NXP
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Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Unfortunately, they have the frame machine and you don't, so you're at their mercy. It's the only way to know if the rear axle isn't ever going to track properly. IF it won't, you'll be tramping around to every alignment shop you can find until the cows come home, and you'll never find anyone who can get it right, because every alignment machine operation assumes the frame is correct and therefore the rear axle is where it should be.
- Thread starter
- #43
Yeah that makes sense...sounds like I need to pick which rabbit hole I want to dive down next ..
- Thread starter
- #44
I got a few more sandbags and have 400lbs in the rear of the truck and another 80 on the bumper swing out.
I had my wife help hold something center and level so I could re-measure. The front is off by a half inch side to side for sure
FL - 19 7/8"
FR - 20 1/4"
RR and RL - Both sides are still at about 22" but passenger is a bit taller
I had my wife help hold something center and level so I could re-measure. The front is off by a half inch side to side for sure
FL - 19 7/8"
FR - 20 1/4"
RR and RL - Both sides are still at about 22" but passenger is a bit taller
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- Thread starter
- #45
I found another photo of the damage from accident. I don't know, it really wasn't too bad and I'd like to put this lower on the list of possible reason why the vehicle is pulling for now. I don't even recall if the alignment was an issue back then.. At that point the truck ride height and weight was stock all around.
I think you need to double check the Panhard Bar.
While it's not 100 related, I have seen bad bars, usually bad bushing in the bar, allow enough axle movement to cause a truck to crab and make it drift. It never showed up in tire wear, except for a little scrubbing since the tires were new.
When it's sitting on the alignment rack, it never moves since it's stationary. I know it doesn't make sense on why they can't align the front end, but maybe it's a combination of both contributing to the drift.
While it's not 100 related, I have seen bad bars, usually bad bushing in the bar, allow enough axle movement to cause a truck to crab and make it drift. It never showed up in tire wear, except for a little scrubbing since the tires were new.
When it's sitting on the alignment rack, it never moves since it's stationary. I know it doesn't make sense on why they can't align the front end, but maybe it's a combination of both contributing to the drift.
- Thread starter
- #47
Well the panhard bar was replaced after the accident. Toyota oem part, no issues getting it installed so I assumed nothing was tweaked.
Same goes for the rear crossmemeber
All replaced with new oem and no fitment issues
Maybe a stupid suggestion, is a cheap preliminary test, of measuring (string or tape measure) front to rear hub equal on both sides?
- Thread starter
- #53
Stop stealing ideas man , jk lol. I need another set of hands to measure and will check it out later today
Ill try it . But wait, isn't that what the measurement on alignment sheet is showing for the rear ? Or I guess thats just the angle / toe of the tire itself
Id really like to think bent frame or something like that is not a factor here but worth checking
- Thread starter
- #54
I also noticed the steering wheel wasn't dead center on alignment print out but maybe that's ok
A wife/fiancee, or kid, makes life easier, especially if they have a 100 series as a DD…
- Thread starter
- #56
Lol indeed . My wife doesnt like to drive the 100 anymore , too much right pull!
Im thinking more about my rear tire / toe out reading . I wonder if the few degrees that its off could be my problem. I was going to go back in my notes and see if I can find any older alignment print out to compare with
If my tires are pointed a few degrees left, given the concept of rear wheel steering it would push my front end right
Since there is no adjustment back there is there anything that can be done to correct these numbers in the rear ?
Let's do some quick math:
Your rear tires have a difference of 0.67°. If we take sine(0.67)*63.8" (63.8" is the track width of a stock 100 series from what I can find), you should see that the driver's side wheel is 0.75" further from the front wheel than the passanger side.
Does this make that big of a difference? I don't actually know.
Your rear tires have a difference of 0.67°. If we take sine(0.67)*63.8" (63.8" is the track width of a stock 100 series from what I can find), you should see that the driver's side wheel is 0.75" further from the front wheel than the passanger side.
Does this make that big of a difference? I don't actually know.
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- Thread starter
- #58
I was going through my never ending stack of service records and found a handful of alignments from years past.
They all have the same deal up front , where caster is adjusted to the furthest end points to allow camber to get in the middle
Hmmm idk
They all have the same deal up front , where caster is adjusted to the furthest end points to allow camber to get in the middle
Hmmm idk
Were those before you added the extra rake with the rear springs?
