Builds CLARK - FJ62 docu-series thread (1 Viewer)

[Godwin]

I found the brake line damaged. I managed to get the engine running normally again, we swapped the spare tire on and drove to our campsite for the night. Since I was almost 500 miles from home I didn't sleep that great - thinking about a damaged brake line. The next day I limped it home. Knock on wood - my Toyota's have never left me stranded!

Once blew a rear hard line on a FJ40 so bent it over, crimped the end, refilled the brake system with water and kept going. I was 200 miles and 2 days from home. Once home replaced the line, flushed the system with brake fluid and had no issues from the water in the system.

 

[toy_tek]

Thread Bump, have you mounted the 235/85r16s up yet? I curious about the tire size on the 62.

Soon! Just have to rebuild this front axle first… didn’t want birf barf all over the new shoes. It’s gonna be 115+ this week and I’m also pouring the slab for my new shop so axle progress is slower than I’d like :/

 

[toy_tek]

Once blew a rear hard line on a FJ40 so bent it over, crimped the end, refilled the brake system with water and kept going. I was 200 miles and 2 days from home. Once home replaced the line, flushed the system with brake fluid and had no issues from the water in the system.

That’s crazy, never would have considered using water but it makes sense.

After that trip I picked up one of those snazzy brake line plugs that Wits End makes and just keep in the truck hoping I never need to use it.

 

[toy_tek]

MidSommer Updates...

Couple of projects checked off the list, completed amid some inhospitably high temperatures here. Last month I ordered up some 20k silicone oil and modified my green hub Aisin FTC-049 fan clutch. I also moved the adjustment screws from the far left position to about 3/4 to the right to lockup at a lower temperature. Well there's a huge difference in fan performance just from the sound, and I can see the temps staying in check much better. For context: twice over the past year I've had the trans temp light come on when the engine temp was in the 230 range for a bit, in conditions where that really shouldn't be happening (ie...not that hot outside). Now after the oil modification, I've had the truck out in 115 degrees for hours, and even on what I think is probably the longest steepest grade in AZ, and the engine temp barely hit 215 or maybe 220, and no trans temp light. This is a win of course. However I do notice the fan locking up a bit earlier (lower water temp) than what I would expect, in the 185-195 range. Since the thermostat doesn't fully open until 210, I believe the fan should lock up closer to 215. So I think I'll pull the fan clutch out and adjust the screw position to maybe 1/3 or 1/2 of the sweep instead of 3/4, and test the result. I may need to remove 1/2 of the 20k and replace with 1/2 10k to drop the viscosity to around 15k. That remains to be seen.


Current valve position screw setting:

I also did a quick viscosity test to see if I could tell what the factory oil weight was. I put a drop each of 10k, 20k and the factory oil on a heated aluminum plate and then tilted it up so the oil would start running down. Based on the distance each traveled in a period of time, I estimate the factory used about 5k oil since it traveled about twice as far as the 10k and 4x the 20k.

Unrelated to fan clutch... finally my shop construction is moving forward after only a year and a half of waiting for plans, engineering and permitting. Was able to get the slab poured on July 12, which was just at the beginning of this crazy heat streak we're getting in Phoenix. Not the best condition for concrete curing, but at least we're moving forward. I expect the building to be up in another month or two. This is a long time coming for me, so I'm pretty stoked.

Will be 32' wide x 28' deep, 11' ceiling.

 

[toy_tek]

bwesty and I hit up Lake Roosevelt over the July 4 weekend. It was crazy hot, so we just sipped cold brews and did some swimming. Finally drove the complete eastern loop around the lake. Pretty cool.

Moonrise over the Sierra Anchas

Busted out the REI Half Dome for this trip... 115 during the day and I actually needed a blanket at some point in the middle of the night!

 

[toy_tek]

Right after that quick weekend trip, I dove into the long overdue knuckle rebuild on the 62. Full rebuild kit from Marlin Crawler, new spindle bushings, new OEM rotors, Napa reman calipers. We all know it's not really a fun project, but this was especially not fun for me working on the dirt and in the extreme heat. The immediate upside is I justified a new parts washer for myself... a 40 gallon unit. Painted the hubs and knuckles, cleaned all the hardware... everything looking pretty good now and won't be spewing mung all over the tires.

And the driver for getting the axle rebuild done now was that I had a brand new set of 235/85/16 BFG KO2s on new FJCO rims waiting to get mounted up.

Lame backyard pic before work... will update this at some point with a better shot.

 

[toy_tek]

My 3 year old Costco Interstate gave up the ghost on Friday, 2 months after the 36 month warranty was out. Replaced it with a SLI34-78AGMDP X2Power Premium AGM 880CCA BCI Group 34/78. About $340 out the door with 10% off. 48 month warranty.

Had a group 31 X2 in my last truck and it lasted about 5 years if I recall correctly.

 

[toy_tek]

Shop is almost complete! Moved to this house 3 years ago and the plan had been to build one from the start... the permitting took forever (City of Phoenix) but I am very close to finally having a decent work space again. Doors are 10x10 and 16x8.

 

[RevISK]

Dog

 

[toy_tek]

Dog

Ha... thats my goodest girl Pico. Card holding member of the International Adventure Pooch club. She's ready for a trip NOW.

 

[toy_tek]

Still waiting on garage doors and power at the shop, but I have temporary lights & the Toyota projects can't wait.

The CSF radiator sprung a pretty serious leak today, so that'll have to come out sooner than I was expecting (it's only 5 years old). The engine block isn't back from the machine shop yet so I guess I'll play it by ear as to if the radiator comes out and stays out for the duration of the engine replacement, or maybe the rad gets patched up and installed for a few months. Either way I think I'll be looking into a Ron Davis for long term replacement, I've had it with CSF. $$$

H55 swap is pretty much ready to go, sourced the last of the parts I needed which should be here any day. $$$$

Got some front spring woes - pretty sure one of the Dobinson's is twisted, causing the passenger shackle to lean outward. I took it all apart thinking the shackle was bent, but it wasn't, and the forward spring eye is not parallel with the frame or hanger. Not sure how this happened, or if it was this way at install (I had a local toyota shop install the springs about 18 months ago). Loosening up the U bolts didn't really change anything. I contacted Dobinson's but they just asked a bunch of questions, so we'll see if anything happens warranty wise.

Not to mention the back spring eye on both sides is contacting my rear spring hanger (front axle). Nothing is out of place on the springs, they just look manufactured wrong to me. I was told there isn't a left or right front spring, but it kinda looks like if I swap them side to side, it'll at least solve the issue of contacting the hanger.

Here is the rear of the front springs

Which brings me to the rear axle. Investigating some driveline vibration, a few weeks ago I finally got to measure my rear pinion flange angle and found it's measuring a few degrees off from the xfer case flange angle. I have some 2.5* shims I was getting ready to install to correct the angle. However upon disassembly, I found the lower spring plates are bent (one way more than the other), probably because the rubber isolator pads were installed. The pads are pretty much destroyed next to where the U bolts clamped down. Wish the pads weren't installed, but oh well. So from what I can see, I'd say be sure to *not* install the rubber isolator pads on the rear. Got a call into @lcwizard Dave at 4+ for some U bolt flip kits which will solve this as well as new U bolts.

Got some CruiserTrash bits coming my way too! =)

And LRA has a 20% sale for the 40 gallon tanks... man that is tempting to add to the project list $$$

It's only money... can't take it with me I guess.

 

[toy_tek]

A few nights out in KOFA AZ in early November.

Got a 70 series rim for a matching 235/85/16 spare, painted it Rustoleum grey which is almost a dead ringer match for the FJCO rims. Thinking I might paint the engine block this color too.

 

[CruiserTrash]

@toy_tek Thanks for the order my man. Pretty swamped so come Monday I’ll start mailing stuff out as fast as I can, probably going right through Friday. One man show, day job, kids, etc…

You’ll like the flip kit. If nothing else it makes working on the suspension far easier. Of course you also gain some ground clearance and the ability to bash the lower plate without damaging anything. Of note with Dobinsons leaf packs: the u-bolts will need an extra thick grade 8+ washer under each nut or you’ll run out of threads and never get to full torque. That’s two washers total under each nut. I’ve already had a conversation with Dave about it - the Dobby packs are less tall than OME and Ironman so you’re just running the nut right down to the end of the threads. He may or may not be getting new u-bolts with more threads cut. Might want to let him know you’re running Dobbies though.

For what it’s worth I’m 100% a believer that the rubber isolator system does not belong on aftermarket springs on a 60 or 62, period. If you need some good stock rear spring plates to tide you over I have a pair with relatively new (but used) Dobinsons U-bolts.

 

[toy_tek]

Been working on the H55 swap, taking my time. Some other items happening simultaneously are:

• Tuffy center console install
• rear u-bolt replacement (damaged)
• Radiator repair
• Diff breather lines
• Rear heater delete (all parts for sale)

Couple of notes on H55 install for 3FE

• Need longer upper bell housing bolts x2. M12x40 (1.75 course thread) w a lock washer work perfect. Belmetric.com PN BH12X40YLW x2
• Clutch line is $16 at OReillys. PN: PAJ-360 (3/16" x 60" M10x1.00) this is the perfect length. I've bent a few hard lines over the years, this one took awhile to get close to stock FJ60... not quite factory perfect but this is a camping vehicle so...
  • Fabricated a firewall mounting bracket for the line end that connects with the flex hose. (see pic below)
• Definitely need the 2F flywheel bolts, the 3F flex plate bolts are pretty short in comparison. PN 9091301016 x6
• I needed the clutch boots for the early bell housing (not 3f). Fork boot: 3112660021, and rubber plug 3112160021
• Clutch and brake pedal pads 3132136010 (need to cut the brake pedal down)
• Clutch pedal to MC push rod pin PN 9024910017
• expecting about $350 in labor to shorten/lengthen the 2 driveshafts.
• Sourced Matsubo U joints PN UJ36030 from Cruiser Outfitters, these look very nice. CO is always a pleasure to deal with.
• Shout out to CruiserTrash for hooking a dude up! Needed some oddball items and he came through. Stand up fella, beers are on me if we ever meet up!
• The transmission and most of my hard parts & answers for my dumb questions came from Georg @ ValleyHybrids/CruierBrothers. Got a chance to stop in his shop and talk with him before I decided to drop the coin, he took some time out of his busy morning to talk to me about the project (this was almost 2 years ago) and I appreciated it then as I do now.
• Wiring - see next post

Now more pics

DIY clutch bracket

Starting to look like a proper FJ6x. Also pretty stoked on finally getting this Tuffy console installed.

Setting the transmission height for the output flange angle to match the rear pinion flange as close as I can. Starting on the crossmember in the next day or two. That'll be the last of the bigger items with the H55 swap.

 

[toy_tek]

H55 to FJ62 wiring:

Engine side <---> transmission / transfer case side

About 15 minutes of wiring for the swap.

Note: I snipped and removed the 4 Low switch wiring, this allows the FJ62 to operate in 2wd low range if desired (like a twin stick). The unused switch stays in place to plug the hole. Normally with a stock setup, when the 4-low lever is pushed to 4-low, this switch is closed and causes the vacuum solenoids to automatically engage 4wd, so there was no way to select 2wd low range.

Neutral Safety Switch:
The dark blue connector on the left is the NSS, the heavier gauge black wire and white wire get connected together. I'll add an anti-theft switch into this at some point. The small black wire gets connected to the reverse light circuit (next).

Reverse Light Circuit:
The small black wire from the blue NSS plug then gets connected to the yellow/red wire from the old 3 pin plug from the A440 (top pic,far right). The yellow/green wire from that plug then goes to the blue wire on the white 2 pin plug on the engine side... this completes the reverse light circuit.

4x4 Indicator Lamp Circuit:
The transfer case 4x4 indicator light circuit (light blue plug to grey plug) doesn't get changed, but I cut out about 14" of excess wire length and snipped the remaining wire off the triangular grey plug.

I used the fun shrink tube crimps with the glue inside. Weathertight. Credit to Pismo62 for the wiring info that I just regurgitated in my own words.

Starting the crossmember. 16 gauge 2x3 and 1/4" plate for the ends and 3/16" plate for the center.

I took my time getting the height of the transmission set to get the rear driveshaft flanges as parallel as I could. Georg had said the xfer case flange should be about 2 degrees off 90. The axle pinion measured 1.4 degrees from 90. After the jack was removed and the weight was on the crossmember, the flanges measured within 0.6 degrees of each other, which will actually decrease further toward parallel under torque load. Test ride proved the point today. No driveline vibration. This was an issue for me for a significant time prior to the transmission swap, so I'm happy to have solved that. BTW I have no shims on the rear springs... Dobinson's heavy.

I needed a return spring for the clutch pedal, I found a deal on Amazon so I took advantage of their 1 financing plan and bought a dozen. Hit me up if you need one.

 

[toy_tek]

So in prior posts I was pretty sure I was going to go the Ron Davis radiator route. I was bummed that my CSF 2708 gave out for the second time within 5 years. Well I talked to Ron, and he quoted me $1600 and then talked to me for about 10 minutes how there are too many variables to guarantee a radiator... Super nice guy and obviously well respected and knowledgeable. But I just couldn't justify that cost.

So, like I've done before, I found an old-school radiator shop in town (Bowman Radiator in Phoenix) and I went down and watched while the father/son team pressure tested mine and I could see the bubbles rising from the tubes at the lower tank area. A day later I got it back, tank was removed, cleaned, resoldered. So far no leaks. Time will tell how long that remains true.

I think most of the older LC's have the issue of a lousy radiator drain plug location. I was tired of dealing with the mess every time. I found a post here referring to AN fittings for a 40 series radiator. So I figured out the CSF 2708 has a M10x1.5 thread for the drain plug. The only thing I goofed was on the Orings I ordered were way too big, so I tried using a plastic washer, then a copper washer (seen in the pic), both of which leaked, so I ended up using the o-ring from the original plastic drain plug. The setup works very well, no mess!

Anyway, here's the breakdown.

Product​	Quantity​	Price​
Fragola 460607-BL 6AN to 10MM x 1.5 Metric Adapter​	1​	$12.95​
Fragola 6AN Black Braided Pro-Flow AN Hose​	1​	$10.99​
Fragola 220106-BL 6AN Straight Pro-Flow AN Hose End​	2​	$17.58​
Fragola 480606-BL 6AN Flare Plug​	1​	$4.99​

I got everything online from some shop called Havoc Speed, stuff wasn't exactly cheap but I'd order from them again. Great service.

 

[toy_tek]

I guess I could mention that I wrapped up the radiator install & H55 swap last night and the test drive was today. Not the rocket ship some Mud posts might lead to believe, but a definite improvement in response. I was happy that nothing blew up, no funny noises, and really no adjustments were needed after the test ride. Looking forward to getting back out on the trails.

Additionally during this project I added 4Plus U bolt flip on the rear. Front will be installed soon. 4Plus stuff is BEEFY! Dave's a great resource, and I am thankful for the time he's spent discussing various projects & products with me.

 

[dbbowen]

tbh i think the 3fe and h55f is a super solid combo with the 4.10s. Awesome build so far man. If it makes you feel any better, im on my second Aluminum radiator in my truck. Ive been trying to find a radiator shop somewhere in the country to make me an old school style brass/copper radiator but most places only do repair. Im dying to go back to the older style.

 

[toy_tek]

tbh i think the 3fe and h55f is a super solid combo with the 4.10s. Awesome build so far man. If it makes you feel any better, im on my second Aluminum radiator in my truck. Ive been trying to find a radiator shop somewhere in the country to make me an old school style brass/copper radiator but most places only do repair. Im dying to go back to the older style.

Yeah sorry to hear that. Can’t say I’m sold on aluminum. Luis at Bowman [edit for spelling] Radiator in Phoenix. If you have your tanks he can recore w a USA made brass. Said $600 range for that.

 

[dbbowen]

Yeah sorry to hear that. Can’t say I’m sold on aluminum. Luis at Bowen Radiator in Phoenix. If you have your tanks he can recore w a USA made brass. Said $600 range for that.

Huh. I might try giving them a call. Thanks man!