x2, black 
CJ's 1962 FJ40 build
- Thread starter cjgoode
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just remember, with that flux core, your weld will never be as strong as with 75/25/solid wire. i wouldn't trust a flux weld for anything that needs to be structural or weight bearing (think winch/recovery). flux works, but not for strength
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- Harbour City, the New Southern Wales
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That winch looks sooooo good!
- Thread starter
- #65
I have done a lot of research and some people actually think flux core can do a stronger weld then solid wire, but seems a lot of opinions go both ways, welding sights say they are the same if done properly. I have to weld outside, and have to make do with what I got, if I had the money that would be tig welded.
I think it will be fine, I worry more about my welding skills then my flux core wire. Since it goes through the bumper, and all the pressure is going to be on the bumper probably very little real stress on my welds. I probably could have just put it through bumper with no welds. Most of the bumper is over 1/4 in thick and that mounting plate is 1/4. I think the bumper will come off before that winch will, since it would have to go through the bumper. If my theory is not correct let me know, or if there is a good way to test it once the winch is hooked would love to know.
I think it will be fine, I worry more about my welding skills then my flux core wire. Since it goes through the bumper, and all the pressure is going to be on the bumper probably very little real stress on my welds. I probably could have just put it through bumper with no welds. Most of the bumper is over 1/4 in thick and that mounting plate is 1/4. I think the bumper will come off before that winch will, since it would have to go through the bumper. If my theory is not correct let me know, or if there is a good way to test it once the winch is hooked would love to know.
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- Thread starter
- #66
I guess I could do like the movie "Gods must be Crazy" and winch it up into a tree!!
ya, i guess i just go off of what i've learned working at a welding shop, but have never put any actual structural testing into my thoughts. i use a flux at home as well, but my boss wouldn't let anything come out of our shop that was done with flux. it just doesn't create enough heat to really get after it. (just my $0.005) your setup's gravy. if you really want to see a quality test of a winch, check this out
best 4x4xfar - YouTube
old rover add.
nice truck, wish i could get as indepth as you, but the neighbors would freak if there was a chassis and a body sitting next to it...some people just don't understand...
best 4x4xfar - YouTube
old rover add.
nice truck, wish i could get as indepth as you, but the neighbors would freak if there was a chassis and a body sitting next to it...some people just don't understand...
- Thread starter
- #68
This is my second build, neighbors have not complained, atleast not to me. But I never leave stuff in the drive way, I roll it out into the drive way to weld, sand, grind etc, then roll it back in. If you saw how my garage looked you would wonder why not do the work in the garage, but when I did the cj8 it welding and grinding just put to much soot everywhere. Wife was about to make me sleep in the garage. My garage could be on an episode or Hoarders.
From all the tech data I have found, Flux Core on thick metal will burn much hotter and deeper then mig with wire core and gas do to the reverse polarity used and the gas with the wire mig cools the puddle while it protects it, most farm equipment is repaired with flux core because of welding outside and the teeth on a bucket need to be strong. I read it really comes down to the tensile strength of the wire used, but flux core will get better penetration. But flux sucks on thinner metal because of the extra heat. I would not want a welding shop to use flux either, I agree with your boss, but I bet that is more on looks then strength plus potential problems of flux seeping through the pain later. After your comments I did a lot more research (As you can tell), and most experts say on thick metal flux core is stronger do to the higher heat and deeper penetration, but A lof of that would depend on the operator much more then flux or wire. After many hours of research I am good with flux, one day I will buy a bottle of gas since my welder can use that also, or if I win the lottery I will have a tig.
From all the tech data I have found, Flux Core on thick metal will burn much hotter and deeper then mig with wire core and gas do to the reverse polarity used and the gas with the wire mig cools the puddle while it protects it, most farm equipment is repaired with flux core because of welding outside and the teeth on a bucket need to be strong. I read it really comes down to the tensile strength of the wire used, but flux core will get better penetration. But flux sucks on thinner metal because of the extra heat. I would not want a welding shop to use flux either, I agree with your boss, but I bet that is more on looks then strength plus potential problems of flux seeping through the pain later. After your comments I did a lot more research (As you can tell), and most experts say on thick metal flux core is stronger do to the higher heat and deeper penetration, but A lof of that would depend on the operator much more then flux or wire. After many hours of research I am good with flux, one day I will buy a bottle of gas since my welder can use that also, or if I win the lottery I will have a tig.
LOL. My wife and your wife are not allowed to ever compare notes! I have a 3 car garage and Im taking up 2 of those bays as well as every inch of storgage space!
On a side note...do you know if the bench seats out of a 63 would fit a 62 FJ40?
- Thread starter
- #70
Yes on the seats, well kind of. The driver seat will need some tweaking I think. The 62 has the angled tool box, where the later years did not, and the later year seat has two buckles to hold it down, 1 will have nothing to latch to. Not sure if 63 had the angled tool box, would also depend on mfg year. It should be an easy modification, I just have not done my yet. I have a later set of bench seats in mine not sure what year, but from the 60's, but have not attached them yet, they just sit there. The passenger side looks like an exact fit. I have a 3 car garage, 1 with my 1962 fj40 project, 1 with my 1980 fj40 project that is like a storage of all my parts I got with the 1962 fj40, 3 sets of hard doors, 2 sets of ambulance doors, barn door, rear lift hatch radiators, etc etc, then the middle is 100% taken by my work area, some furniture my wife bought and tons of other stuff. I have a real big garage though Even with the shelfs and counters it has I think I could fit 5 fj40's in there. I measured and I think I pull two into one spot and still have a could of feet before the shelf and counter, only the 3rd door is not long enough to do two.
dude, its looking great!!! Subscribing!
I have enjoyed reading many of your posts. Just got around to reading your build up thread. Very nice work! any progress pics to motivate us?
a year and no updates?
- Thread starter
- #74
Yeah, been a long year not much fj40 action, bought some foreclosed property in the NC mountains and that has been consuming a lot of our time. Eventually this fj40 will really enjoy it up there.
But I actually started working on it agina this week. This is what I did the last two days, pulled the warn 8274 apart, out side looked like it had been in a swamp, but the inside of the gears looked brand new.
Ended up power washing it, sand blasting it and painting it. There was no good way to get the aluminum looking good again.
New brake friction pads should be here next week and the lower end kit I hope tomorrow so I can start assembling it. Also ordered the pinion flange from Kurt earlier this week so I can get the front drive shaft installed and skid plate on. So it has started moving again this week. I hope to sand the front bumper and paint it next week so I can get the winch installed and off the floor. Then back to the body work.
But I actually started working on it agina this week. This is what I did the last two days, pulled the warn 8274 apart, out side looked like it had been in a swamp, but the inside of the gears looked brand new.
Ended up power washing it, sand blasting it and painting it. There was no good way to get the aluminum looking good again.
New brake friction pads should be here next week and the lower end kit I hope tomorrow so I can start assembling it. Also ordered the pinion flange from Kurt earlier this week so I can get the front drive shaft installed and skid plate on. So it has started moving again this week. I hope to sand the front bumper and paint it next week so I can get the winch installed and off the floor. Then back to the body work.
Interested in your booster setup. Any updates? How well does it stop your rig. Did you have to install a Proportioning valve?
I'm getting ready to install a 77 front diff in my 65. Just getting ideas on boosters & m/c
I'm getting ready to install a 77 front diff in my 65. Just getting ideas on boosters & m/c
- Thread starter
- #76
Finally got to painting it, turned out 50/50 very happy with front half, not so much with back. Planning another few coats post assembly, might have to and and do a little more body work on the tub, not that it is shiny small issues much more visible. Other then parts of the floor and rear sill, this is 100% original steel, spent a lot of time on the hood and fenders, clearly not as much on the body.
Dad2six, I do not have a proportioning valve, those that used this setup from the fj45 section did not need one. Have only driven around the block a few times, stopped very well even without the booster hooked up yet.
Dad2six, I do not have a proportioning valve, those that used this setup from the fj45 section did not need one. Have only driven around the block a few times, stopped very well even without the booster hooked up yet.
chappohj47
Chappo Built
Hi mate what winch is that on your rig
- Thread starter
- #78
It is a warn 8274
- Thread starter
- #79
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- Thread starter
- #80
Got a little more donr
