CJ's 1962 FJ40 build
- Thread starter cjgoode
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- #22
Converted back to 3 on tree and vacuum shift
Pulled the shifter off and put on the parts for 3 on the tree. Tested the vacuum shifter with a vacuum pump and it cleanly shifted in and out of 4wd. Listed all the old parts on ebay to try and recoupe some of the costs to buy and have the old parts shipped to me.
fj40 toyota land cruiser 3spd floor shift conversion: eBay Motors (item 330488126368 end time Oct-30-10 09:33:42 PDT)
Pulled the shifter off and put on the parts for 3 on the tree. Tested the vacuum shifter with a vacuum pump and it cleanly shifted in and out of 4wd. Listed all the old parts on ebay to try and recoupe some of the costs to buy and have the old parts shipped to me.
fj40 toyota land cruiser 3spd floor shift conversion: eBay Motors (item 330488126368 end time Oct-30-10 09:33:42 PDT)
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- #23
Got some used tires and wheels off craigslist. I was 100% set on getting some aluminum outlaw II looking wheels. After fishing for these for almost a year a set finally came up with as close to the correct size as I could hope for. 15x8 with 3.5 backspacing. They will need a 1/4 spacer for the front, two washers on each lug did the trick, but not a drivable solution to me. Tires might be usable, good tread but leak at the bead on two. Will see if I can break the tire bead clean it up and re inflate them. Also started cleaning and prepping the frame. Painting this masterseries silver paint inside the rails did not work so well, it was two thick for cheap undercoating gun, got as much in as I could after the pictures. After I paint it black I will spray the eastwood wax/oil mixture inside the rails, that works well with the spray gun.
Frame is very solid but really pitted after the wire wheel. Debating on skim coating it with body filler or not just for the looks.
Frame is very solid but really pitted after the wire wheel. Debating on skim coating it with body filler or not just for the looks.
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- #24
The body is finally mounted to the frame. Not much room, body work will be done with the body on the frame. Wish I had the room and a rotisserie but making do with what I got. Front part of the frame also need to be cleaned up and painted. Need a lift, but like the size of the used 33's that came with the rims.
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- #25
I also heat wrapped the exhaust, been debating it, but decided to go ahead. Should reduce the heat under the hood and floor boards as well as quite it down. Based on research should not cause a rust problem, the times it can get wet it will be hot and stay dry, when not super hot rain and water will not get on it. Double wrapped it where in the engine compartment and wrapped it all the way back to the rear including the muffler.
What TC do you have? Is it stock? The reason I ask is I just bought a cruiser with a 350 swap, and it has the same TC. The PO said it was a NP231 mounted to a SM465 tranny.
Great looking project!
Great looking project!
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- #27
That is a stock transfer case for the 3 speed transmission.
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- #28
Went ahead and put in the column shift linkage, so I can try and get it to be drivable soon. Got a lot of sanding ahead and cannot push it in and out of the garage every time. Shifting through all gears pretty good, so cool, have not used a column shift since high school in the early 80's. Cant wait to put a seat in it just to sit behind the wheel with 3 on the tree.
very cool build i will be watching this one for sure.
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- #30
I wish I knew the story in this. Took rear drive shaft off before I put the body on. Realized both front and rear drive shaft flange bolts were loose, did not think much of it. Got body back on, then painted the cleaned up and painted the drive shaft figuring it would be easy to put on with the body on. Ugh, drive shaft is likely form 71 and came with trans and engine, axles I now know are prior to 68. Drive shaft flange holes are 10mm and axle flange holes are 8mm. Wish I would have realized that before I put the body on, it was no fun trying to drill them out under the body.
Anyways finally drove it. I needed to be able to drive it to do the body work so I can pull out of the garage in order to sand it. To hard to push it in and out all the time.
Here is my 16 year old son testing it in the driveway. Start and idles real nice. Slight valve tapping, but sound like most I have heard. Will adjust them down the road.
YouTube - DSCF4912.AVI
Anyways finally drove it. I needed to be able to drive it to do the body work so I can pull out of the garage in order to sand it. To hard to push it in and out all the time.
Here is my 16 year old son testing it in the driveway. Start and idles real nice. Slight valve tapping, but sound like most I have heard. Will adjust them down the road.
YouTube - DSCF4912.AVI
looks awesome man! this is what I'd like to do for my build up. were you able to wire brush and paint the frame with the engine/tranny/suspension etc still attached or did you take the frame off? also, where did you score the Masters Series paint?
Thanks,
Todd
Thanks,
Todd
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- #32
I did it with the engine and suspension on/in. Lot of wire brushing and power washing. I wish I would have taken the engine out to power wash inside the boxed part of the frame better. But plan to soak it with Eastwoods Rust Prevetner. It is a wax/oil mixture I can srpay through their under coating gun with 24" tubes that came with it. It dries black and works great. I got the master series from their web site
Mastercoat Silver
Someone here had posted a question if anyone had used it. So I did a lot of research and was impressed with the results people were getting. Seems real big with mustangs and VW restorers. I liked the Marginally Prepared metal statement in their instructions. After the Hollidays hole to wire brush and sand the exterior and roll it with this stuff. Then will apply body filler on top to skim coat and try and level stuff out, from the metal not the paint.
Mastercoat Silver
Someone here had posted a question if anyone had used it. So I did a lot of research and was impressed with the results people were getting. Seems real big with mustangs and VW restorers. I liked the Marginally Prepared metal statement in their instructions. After the Hollidays hole to wire brush and sand the exterior and roll it with this stuff. Then will apply body filler on top to skim coat and try and level stuff out, from the metal not the paint.
thanks
you going to spray it yourself? I'm assuming you used the gloss chassis black they sell? I was thinking of using the MasterSeries silver and then spraying Eastwood's Chassis Satin Black on both the frame and underside of the body. Looking forward to seeing your progress!
you going to spray it yourself? I'm assuming you used the gloss chassis black they sell? I was thinking of using the MasterSeries silver and then spraying Eastwood's Chassis Satin Black on both the frame and underside of the body. Looking forward to seeing your progress!
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- #34
Yes I used their Gloss Black AG111. I think it turned out well. I still need to paint the front part of the frame. I have to paint outside, I painted the front of the frame when 0 chance of rain and the second I finished spraying the frame it rained for a few minutes, just enough to ruin it. Will have to sand it smooth and do it again. No rust at all so the silver primer worked.
I used the Eastwood Chassis paint when I did my cj8, along with the Eastwood rust Encapsulator under it. It has held up well, but the AG111 sprayed a lot better then the Eastwood stuff. I will paint the body myself. I hope it turns out better then the jeep did. The jeep looks good and has no rust bubbles and it sits in the salt spray year round, but it has a few runs.
I used the Eastwood Chassis paint when I did my cj8, along with the Eastwood rust Encapsulator under it. It has held up well, but the AG111 sprayed a lot better then the Eastwood stuff. I will paint the body myself. I hope it turns out better then the jeep did. The jeep looks good and has no rust bubbles and it sits in the salt spray year round, but it has a few runs.
nice looking good man!
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- #36
Well a month or so back was pulling the drums to see how they were, and found the front passenger side full of grease. With help from people here on other posts found I was not likely able to fix it. I do not have the tools to pull the bushing and replace it and bore it out if needed. I have been shopping for disc axles for my 1980 that has drum brakes up front for almost 3 years. Well a pair of 1977 axles came up about 2.5 hours away for $300. Needless to say they are going onto the 1962 and will keep looking for the 1980. Based on other posts here I bought a brake master and booster off ebay from a geo metro. If I had found a pair of post 1968 drum front axles I would have been happy with them also, but disc, power booster and dual master cylinder will be fine also. They are supposedly already rebuilt a few years ago. Will be cleaning and inspecting the brake parts, painting and trying to install.
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- #37
Well the install did not go well. 6 weeks ago when I broke the ubolts off, the springs fell apart. They had totally rusted out between the leafs where water sat, but the edges looked good since that is what PO's had kept painted. Finally got the rear installed. Spring plates were extremely rusted out and bent like soup bowls. No longer flat at all. Does not show in the pictures but if I held them onto the new leaf springs the center pin nut did not even touch the whole for it. The center of the spring plate was probably 3/4 inch from touching. So I made new shackles and spring plates out of 1/4 steel. The old springs were beyond shot. Glad to discover how rotted they were now and not later. Some of the leafs were flaking apart and probably 1/4 of their original thickness. Got H*llscreek 4 lift springs. Looks like it gave it about 6 inches of lift. They should flatten out a little and fix the shackle angle. Now to clean up the front 1977 axle and install it, then new brake lines and hopefully then to the body work.
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- #38
Got the front springs installed, hope to roll it out into the driveway for pictures soon.
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- #39
Geo Metro Brake Booster install
First picture you can see the old single circuit MC is about the same size as the Geo Metro Booster and MC. The new one is about an inch longer. and I will need to extend the push rod. Even if I put the old connecting part onto the new push rod it is about 1/2 short.
Second picture is it in place where it would sit if I got an adapter. After seeing how close it was to the carburetor I did not like that. And after looking how thick the fire wall is where the brake MC is I decided to cut down the rib. The support from the other side for the brake pedals dash steering etc seems very strong.
First picture you can see the old single circuit MC is about the same size as the Geo Metro Booster and MC. The new one is about an inch longer. and I will need to extend the push rod. Even if I put the old connecting part onto the new push rod it is about 1/2 short.
Second picture is it in place where it would sit if I got an adapter. After seeing how close it was to the carburetor I did not like that. And after looking how thick the fire wall is where the brake MC is I decided to cut down the rib. The support from the other side for the brake pedals dash steering etc seems very strong.
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- #40
The part that goes through the fire wall is the bigger problem, its diameter is larger. So I cut the hole larger and the center a little bit lower. Then drilled the 4 new holes, and ugh, the ones on the left side hit the support on the other side. Without a plasma cutter that was a pain. I was able to grind the lower support in order to get the nut on, the top one is another story. I still need to work on it, but it is close. Once I get it to where I can get a nut one, I will have some welding to do in order to patch it back.
First picture is from the drivers side, need to extend the push rod and drill a new hole in the pedal about 1/2 below the other. This was by choice. I need to do a lot more work on the passenger side of the mounting. This was a lot more work then I had planned on. The brake pedal is resting on the push rod making it look worse then it was.
Second picture is where I cut the fire wall rib down. I left if out about 1/4 of an inch or more and folded it down towards the MC. Need to clean this up, paint it and seal it. Plan to fill under the folded down metal so no gunk or rust forms under it.
It was a lot of work, and I still got a lot more to do. I like the way it turned out without the adapter. I wish I had a plasma cutter, but oh well. I will have to clean and repaint the firewall after I do some welding in of new metal. But since the body especially on the inside is not painted or finished this was a good time to tackle this. Glad this came up now and not later. If my truck was finished I probably would have gone with the adapter.
First picture is from the drivers side, need to extend the push rod and drill a new hole in the pedal about 1/2 below the other. This was by choice. I need to do a lot more work on the passenger side of the mounting. This was a lot more work then I had planned on. The brake pedal is resting on the push rod making it look worse then it was.
Second picture is where I cut the fire wall rib down. I left if out about 1/4 of an inch or more and folded it down towards the MC. Need to clean this up, paint it and seal it. Plan to fill under the folded down metal so no gunk or rust forms under it.
It was a lot of work, and I still got a lot more to do. I like the way it turned out without the adapter. I wish I had a plasma cutter, but oh well. I will have to clean and repaint the firewall after I do some welding in of new metal. But since the body especially on the inside is not painted or finished this was a good time to tackle this. Glad this came up now and not later. If my truck was finished I probably would have gone with the adapter.