Chewbacca's Birfield Grease Guide

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When I replace my clicking stock birfs I'm going to try this gun drilled idea. Swaping sides during my rebuild last month did not get rid of the clicking :doh:
 
Found some cheap stuff at WalMart that also meets the criteria. I will add it to the list on page 1.
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I had seen that and was weary of it cause so cheap but if it works it works!
 
Well, after minimal amounts of research, I think I may have found my next multi-purpose grease. This stuff is supposedly GC for wheel bearing performance, LB for chassis lubricating performance, moly fortified and covers the full range of our operating temps here ( I noticed lots of other greases stop at around -5 to -15 F and it in really rare cases gets colder than that here). Anyways, any thoughts on this one? Again a big bummer that Amsoil took away their GHD grease.

Valvoline.com > Products > Grease Gear Oil > Grease > SynPower® Synthetic Grease

http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/SynPower_Grease.pdf


:cheers:

This is what I picked up at NAPA and filled my knuckles with. Seems to meet the specs although I couldn't find the % Moly content anywhere.

After filling (3/4) the knuckles through the fill/inspection hole I did some more reading. I understand that your not really greasing the birfs through this fill/inspection hole, just adding grease to the knuckle. Most mudders agreed that the new grease is not getting to the birfs but just the knuckle components. But, that's an entirely different thread.
 
This is what I picked up at NAPA and filled my knuckles with. Seems to meet the specs although I couldn't find the % Moly content anywhere.

After filling (3/4) the knuckles through the fill/inspection hole I did some more reading. I understand that your not really greasing the birfs through this fill/inspection hole, just adding grease to the knuckle. Most mudders agreed that the new grease is not getting to the birfs but just the knuckle components. But, that's an entirely different thread.

Well the birf's house is the steering knuckle, so greasing the house greases the birf.
 
I have greased these to what I thought was a good level then found out differently later.

I can fill that hole till I see it hear the top. Put the plug back in, drive it 3 miles round trip and take the plug out and can not see the grease any more. I just did this 3 days in a row until I got the proper level.

The grease will pile on top of itself because it is so thick and appears full. If you check it after a ride each time you fill it you can get to the proper level.

Just thought I would share since I just greased mine and then found it was low not long afterward.
 
... I understand that your not really greasing the birfs through this fill/inspection hole, just adding grease to the knuckle. Most mudders agreed that the new grease is not getting to the birfs but just the knuckle components. But, that's an entirely different thread.

Nope. The turning of the steering and rotation of the birf make a perfect "packing action". As long as the proper grease level is maintained, the grease will circulate and properly lube the birf. You could install the birf dry, properly fill the knuckle and within a few miles of driving, the birf will be perfectly packed.

I have greased these to what I thought was a good level then found out differently later.

I can fill that hole till I see it hear the top. Put the plug back in, drive it 3 miles round trip and take the plug out and can not see the grease any more. I just did this 3 days in a row until I got the proper level.

The grease will pile on top of itself because it is so thick and appears full. If you check it after a ride each time you fill it you can get to the proper level.

Just thought I would share since I just greased mine and then found it was low not long afterward.

Yep, depending on temp, it may take longer for the grease to "settle". One easy/quick way to gauge grease level is the grease buildup line at the wipers and on the balls. Maintaining proper level is far more important than brand of moly.
 
I have used the Volvoline DuraBlend sine the rebuild, just learned my lesson with the grease level.
 
Sorry to resurrect this old thread, but I'm shopping for supplies for my axle rebuild. Trying to find a $5/tube solution is a bit of a challenge, and my usual go-to sites aren't panning out.

I found this place... looks good, and it's on my short-list for getting Valvoline Palladium at $4.90/ea.

Valvoline ® Palladium ® Grease - GEMPLER'S

John Deere is also in the hunt at the moment. From what I can tell, this Valvoline stuff is hard to find now.
 
been using mobil one cm L have a mobil one dealer here in town for the mining companies works great, dont know how much think it s not to pricey the girl gives me samples of it to use and "test" for her
 
I'm a fan of Chevron's "Black Pearl" grease, NLGI 2 with the GC and LB ratings and excellent water resistance.
 
Just found 10 tubes of the Valvoline Palladium at NAPA on clearance for $3.15/ea. if you're in need of grease you might want to check your local store.
 
Now that I've been running the Palladium in both rigs for a while, I'm beginning to wonder if is not a bit lacking in tackiness and viscosity compared to other formulations. I have a fair amount of grease/oil oozing its way out of all four wipers. Initially I was concerned that I had inadvertently purchased NLGI #1, but it is NLGI #2. The birfs were checked at re-greasing time via the kunckle port plug, and the sample that came back out did not seem soupy from gear oil. Also, when I use this same Palladium in the u-joints, it seems a bit less viscous than the various previous greases I have used there.
 
Ok,l so I did read this entire thread and it seems it didn't really have one good answer.
has any body looked in to this super lube?
i use it for multiple things never used it for wheel bearings or "heavy duty" but its NGLI, -45f-450f, lists wheel bearings, universal joints,chassis lub,hubs,hinges springs, calipers...ect. its food grade as well.

I mainly use it for on my salt water use standup jetski as
dio-electric grease and for bearings that
are sealed by an oring or a sensitive gasket as this will not degrade rubber O-rings like potrolium based grease.
just thought id share and see if anybody has some feedback, it doesnt say anyhting about molly % or what is used to thicken it. not really sure if that applies to the silicone/synthedic type grease. but it seems fare better than regulare grease.
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Ok,l so I did read this entire thread and it seems it didn't really have one good answer.
has any body looked in to this super lube?
i use it for multiple things never used it for wheel bearings or "heavy duty" but its NGLI, -45f-450f, lists wheel bearings, universal joints,chassis lub,hubs,hinges springs, calipers...ect. its food grade as well.

I mainly use it for on my salt water use standup jetski as
dio-electric grease and for bearings that
are sealed by an oring or a sensitive gasket as this will not degrade rubber O-rings like potrolium based grease.
just thought id share and see if anybody has some feedback, it doesnt say anyhting about molly % or what is used to thicken it. not really sure if that applies to the silicone/synthedic type grease. but it seems fare better than regulare grease.


The 80 Series FSM specifies a NLGI 2 viscosity grease with a lithium thickener and molybdenum additive. There are many good lubricants that will do a good job, it's just a matter of finding one locally or online.

The Super Lube grease you posted doesn't specify what type of thickener it uses on their website, but the MSDS shows Fumed Silica (probably the primary thickener) and Polytetrafluoroethylen (Teflon). If the grease had molybdenum additive it would appear grayish/black, so I am pretty sure this does not contain any molybdenum.

This grease may do a good job of lubricating, or it may not. It certainly has some interesting ingredients. I personally prefer synthetic greases to non-synthetics, but there are some excellent choices in either category. I think my favorite of all the greases in this guide is the Lubriplate stuff I mentioned earlier in the thread. http://www.lubriplate.com/pdf/pds/3_21 3000 Series.pdf

Happy hunting!
 
For us Canadians I found this stuff at Princess Auto... Spec sheet:
http://www.nemco.mb.ca/pds/grease_silver.pdf

Also it looks like Canadian Tire has gotten rid of their Motomaster Moly Grease in favor of Valvoline P/N 504974
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For us Canadians I found this stuff at Princess Auto... Spec sheet:
http://www.nemco.mb.ca/pds/grease_silver.pdf

Also it looks like Canadian Tire has gotten rid of their Motomaster Moly Grease in favor of Valvoline P/N 504974

I have used that Nemco brand in two axle rebuilds now with good results. Used the Moly3 from Cat in the past and I cant tell a difference.
 

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