Chewbacca's Birfield Grease Guide

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i sent them a email regarding the mbl grease


"hi
i am chasing some grease to use in my birfield joints on my 80 series land cruiser.

The Toyota repair manual for 80 series cruiser specifically states that the grease have molybdenum additive and a lithium thickener.

doese your mbl grease fit these requirments ?

lookforward to hearing back from you
cheers neil."

and the reply i got was

"
Hi Neil,​
​
Yes, our Pro-Ma MBL Grease would be extremely suitable for this application. Please let me know if you need any further information and if you would like me to arrange a distributor to contact you."


​
 
Pyro4x4 said:
ok, I have to come clean. I sell lubrication for a living. I work for the company its not a multi level thing like amsoil. We go throught extensive training on lubrication but I still leatn new things all the time. I can testify that during my time with the company using the industry standard tests that I have never had a grease beat or even perform as well as ours. The other 1000 people across the country that do my job will tell you the same thing. Im not trying to sell grease here believe me. I sell products in bulk so individuals are not in my market. Without being specific I can tell you that I personally have replaced most of the grease mentioned in this topic already and the customers love my product. Another thing one should look for in a product is IS9001 certification. My company has all types of grease lithium, calcium suphonate, aluminum complex, bentonite, as well as food grade. We sell aluminum complex the most. I can also say that lab results confirm that synthetic greases only perform to about 98% of what their natural ingredient counterparts can perform. Texas Refinery Company makes some quality grease along with Kendall, Canseco also has some decent stuff. Honestly as a rule of thumb, if you can find it on the shelf at your chain type parts house dont buy it. Also I'd run from Schaffer. This is some of what I have learned in the lube buisness. Im not trying to shove my products at anyone. If I can help with any questions I will try.
Click to expand...


Sorry for the delay, but why would you run from Schaeffer? http://www.schaefferoil.com/datapdf/274.pdf Is the product that I've been using. It looks like you sell lube, but do you have any technical background? You're saying that most of the greases that 80s owners use are no good, but I don't understand why?
 
FISHYINK said:
i sent them a email regarding the mbl grease


"hi
i am chasing some grease to use in my birfield joints on my 80 series land cruiser.

The Toyota repair manual for 80 series cruiser specifically states that the grease have molybdenum additive and a lithium thickener.

doese your mbl grease fit these requirments ?

lookforward to hearing back from you
cheers neil."

and the reply i got was

"
Hi Neil,​
​
Yes, our Pro-Ma MBL Grease would be extremely suitable for this application. Please let me know if you need any further information and if you would like me to arrange a distributor to contact you."


​
Click to expand...


I would inquire about the moly % and see what they say (just to be sure its actually contains moly) or better yet, ask for a spec sheet that has the info.

It has been my experience that if a grease manufacturer doesn't make everything clear and easy to find on their website, they usually have a product that is lacking in some area. Of course, there are always exceptions :cheers:
 
When I called Amsoil about thier old moly grease being discontinued they told me to get this:

https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/gpor2.aspx

The "Polymetric Off Road Grease." After reading this thread I am wondering if I should get some Syn Power instead. The Amsoil stuff does not say it is wheel bearing rated. I am using thier red wheel bearing grease in the bearings. When I pulled the front end apart today I did see that one of hte bearings was polluted with moly grease.

What says mud?

:cheers:
 
Fly Rod said:
When I called Amsoil about thier old moly grease being discontinued they told me to get this:

https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/gpor2.aspx

The "Polymetric Off Road Grease." After reading this thread I am wondering if I should get some Syn Power instead. The Amsoil stuff does not say it is wheel bearing rated. I am using thier red wheel bearing grease in the bearings. When I pulled the front end apart today I did see that one of hte bearings was polluted with moly grease.

What says mud?

:cheers:
Click to expand...

Not arguing about anything here but when I spoke to their technician he told me the polymeric would not work well with medium speed or high speed bearings and he also told me that while it would work well enough for chassis components on our LC's it was way heavier than ideal there too. I'm sure this stuff is superb for the things they spec (slow moving heavy duty heavy load equip) but I just don't think it is ideal for anything on our rigs. Unless I learn of something else specific by the time that I need new grease (still have several tubes of the old Amsoil) i'm going to go with that Valvoline which was mentioned earlier. :cheers:
 
turbocruiser said:
Not arguing about anything here but when I spoke to their technician he told me the polymeric would not work well with medium speed or high speed bearings and he also told me that while it would work well enough for chassis components on our LC's it was way heavier than ideal there too. I'm sure this stuff is superb for the things they spec (slow moving heavy duty heavy load equip) but I just don't think it is ideal for anything on our rigs. Unless I learn of something else specific by the time that I need new grease (still have several tubes of the old Amsoil) i'm going to go with that Valvoline which was mentioned earlier. :cheers:
Click to expand...

X2 - I have to agree. After having some of this Amsoil Polymeric (GPOR2) stuff around for a couple months, this really does not seem like it would be great for wheel bearings, and is really probably too heavy for other components as well.

I think Lubriplate makes a great choice here:
http://www.lubriplate.com/pdf/pds/3_39 SYN-3002_and_SYN-3001.pdf

Info from their Spec Sheet:
100% PAO Synthetic Base Fluid
Contains 5% Molybdenum Disulfide
Lithium Complex Thickener

(a little tough to find though)
 
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Having clean/fresh grease (= servicing your front axle) is more important than most of the other variables discussed here, as long as it meets the basic specs, IMHO. Valvoline Palladium, 3% Moly, NLGI 2, premium EP grease, 3-4 bucks a tube at NAPA stores. Done.
 
Last edited:
Chewy,

I didn't realize this pyro guy was banned from this site by woody, so he probably won't answer any questions here. Did you learn anything useful on the Bob is the Oil Guy site? I'd have to agree with Kernal that the quality of the lube isn't that important. I don't recall seeing many failures from improper lube, other than the typical birf soup, where the gear lube mixes with the birf lube (grease). Anyone else?
 
yoopercharged said:
Chewy,

I didn't realize this pyro guy was banned from this site by woody, so he probably won't answer any questions here. Did you learn anything useful on the Bob is the Oil Guy site? I'd have to agree with Kernal that the quality of the lube isn't that important. I don't recall seeing many failures from improper lube, other than the typical birf soup, where the gear lube mixes with the birf lube (grease). Anyone else?
Click to expand...

BITOG didn't contribute a whole lot.

IMO, using a decent grease is all that is needed (doesn't have to be anything super special) and changing it once in a while is a good idea. There are a lot of good grease choices out there :)
 
Wow! I didnt realize I was banned by Woody either. I have been really busy with work and spring household projects and havent been on here in a while. I dont know why I would have been banned. I have only tried to help and havent tried to sell anything. If I did do anything wrong it was unintentional. To answer the question that was asked. I have been to numerous company trainings on lubrication as well as a few lubrication industry trainings. Im not the end all say on lubrication. I was just trying to help with some of the knowledge I have. I would run from Schaffer because of the things I see in almost every company I see using Scahffer. One thing is the oil separates from the grease in the tube. That means the grease is breaking down before its even used. Again if I have offended anyone or done anything to deserve a banning I apologize.
 
"bobistheoilguy.com has a good grease forum that may be able to shed some light on this."

93 Chewbacca


Mr Chewbacca, I am banned from your Mud Mushroom factory, so I may not be able to see if you updated your thread and tell them what "The Light of Bob" is revealing,

Now in case you are unaware your IH8mud operation is a "Mushroom Factory"

This is a place where you are kept in the dark and fed "[censored]"

While not to many folks think that "Bob" could shine some light in there, You did,

How bouts giving us a update , or is the light to bright?

Pyro.... I thought this was yours. I could be wrong. Sorry about the confusion.
 
I ended up using Cat 5moly in mine... but it hasn't moved more than 20ft since reassembly so I can't speak to its performance.

edit: also ended up using shell... rotella? in the wheel bearings.
 
yoopercharged said:
"bobistheoilguy.com has a good grease forum that may be able to shed some light on this."

93 Chewbacca


Mr Chewbacca, I am banned from your Mud Mushroom factory, so I may not be able to see if you updated your thread and tell them what "The Light of Bob" is revealing,

Now in case you are unaware your IH8mud operation is a "Mushroom Factory"

This is a place where you are kept in the dark and fed "[censored]"

While not to many folks think that "Bob" could shine some light in there, You did,

How bouts giving us a update , or is the light to bright?

Pyro.... I thought this was yours. I could be wrong. Sorry about the confusion.
Click to expand...




That is "Tranny Frank" (who has been banned from Mud). He sells a product called "Backwoodsgoop".
 
My rig has had valvoline palladium in the birfs and slip yokes while the bearings and ujoints have valvoline durablend in them. After 80k miles, if there was a problem, I'd a seen it. This grease works for me and is a proven workhorse by other mudders as well.

Keep fresh grease in it and she'll just keep truckin along.

Buck
 
Buckru said:
My rig has had valvoline palladium in the birfs and slip yokes while the bearings and ujoints have valvoline durablend in them. After 80k miles, if there was a problem, I'd a seen it. This grease works for me and is a proven workhorse by other mudders as well.

Keep fresh grease in it and she'll just keep truckin along.

Buck
Click to expand...

I am running the Valvoline Palladium this time around as well. I liked the consistancy and tackyness. I'll be changing the diff fluid Friday to see if I bunged up the seal again. I am hoping for the best...:D
 
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