Cheap Thrills, my '64 FJ40.

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Well they don't come around every day, but deals are out their now and then, especially if you have more time than money. Or he could do something like this...
Toyota Land Cruiser Engine 1971
But sounds like he has his heart set on a v8, so it doesn't really matter.
Here is a fj60 that might sell cheap...
1984 Toyota Land Cruiser 4 Door 4x4 Wagon with Roof Rack

you forgot that I gave away the motor from my 71? sure deals come along, but stopping progress to wait for a deal is the number one reason why people sell their incomplete project. How long before I gave away my motor did someone else do so in the PNW? As for that motor, how is that better then where he's at now?

As for insurance tows. There was a company in Portland - Fast Eddies Towing - who used to rent from my dad. I bought cars from them on a daily basis, so I know a bit about this. I've done hundreds if not a few thousand insurance-tow-purchases-for-flips and I can assure you that they are never a great deal. Insurance is generally the first thing someone buys after the basics (food, shelter), and the last to go before. People who get their cars towed (and lost) for no insurance don't do maintenance, most likely took the best parts when they were allowed to remove their goods. And (here's the best part) in Portland and its suburbans, the cops have first dibs on anything that is seized. They are required to pay the tow bill, but they also have auctions of the seizure cars. Had this been a police auction, I'd concede the point. Of course, if it's something that can be flipped, there are people (like I did), who have a good relationship with the tow-company, who get the next dibs on anything of value (including the tow-truck drivers). Thus, the car you're looking at was rejected by the cops and the flippers. If a tow company is selling it at auction, it's crap. Granted I did make money flipping those cars, but it was at the expense of a lot of labor (and I was in the second group).

That Toyota would have no useable parts...
 
6 plus hours of driving for maybe? worst of all is Expedition Forum is pretty strong in Portland so there will be '60 lovers bidding on it.... resale value of that '60 is $1500 if it runs/drives/turns/stop.... even in best case, you get it for $900 (since the crapcar lots love those)... and you never got to drive it, and more likely than not you never heard it run because there are no keys and if it had a good battery, it's long, long gone. Bottom price is $200 - that's the standing bid that Upullit has on all the insurance tows.

Tow auctions can be fun, but expecting a diamond is unreasonable. I have 2 best deals from an auction, 3 if you count the FJ40. 1 - I bought a Cadillac with a 500 in it for $75.00, I scrapped the car and kept the motor. 2 - a 83(ish) s-10 4x4, 4 cyl, 5 speed truck that needed freeze plugs (which I had to sell out-of-area because it was a bad-parking tow and the owner was in prison on a felony due to get out soon). 3 - is a FJ 40 (either a 71 or 73, can't remember) with a 302 ford, top loader 4 speed, pto winch that was another bad-parking tow but it was towed because it had gone under water during a flood. As you might imagine, even though I only paid $1000 for it, I had a bunch more in it and it never did run or drive right.

or buy a $200 chevy motor, an adapter for $100 and drive your FJ40....
 
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Good thing I didn't talk to you before my first install. I get you're a fan of stock '40s, but good grief - when you're a kid you need encouragement and people to help you do the work... truly you remind me of someone I know who has been the death of more projects simply because he's so negative.

So let's analyze your list:
I cut down and used the mounts that came off the straight 6... breathtakingly simple
I made my own adapter (to the transmission) out of a plate of 1" aluminum (because I knew that all it did was space the engine forward 1"), and used all the stuff that was on the FJ40 for everything else. Even if not, it's $100 at worst.
carb comes with the motor as does the air cleaner.
Speedo-cable never moved so why replace it?
hoses, I spliced and diced... dirty little secret, you can cut a hose down and use exhaust tubing to join them back together.
Fuel system? it's the same system, lift pump to carb
alternator, two choices, I went with GM because it's so easy, but I've also seen plenty simply remake the top bracket and use the toyota alternator.
t-case mount? why? it's not moving.
labor to install? lol - I guess this is why I have such a problem with what you're saying. You type but don't help. Anyone who has trouble doing what I suggest... I have and I will travel to help them do it (or they can do the work in my shop...)
Radiator - presuming it's bad and needs replacement - don't tell the chinese you'll be willing to pay $300 for what I got delivered for just over $100.


And I'll say it again to the OP because it seems to have gotten lost in mr. negative... I have a instrument cluster I don't need - if you want it, it's yours.

And the best part of all, updating the chevy straight 6 to a chevy V8....
 
Good thing I didn't talk to you before my first install. I get you're a fan of stock '40s, but good grief - when you're a kid you need encouragement and people to help you do the work... truly you remind me of someone I know who has been the death of more projects simply because he's so negative.

So let's analyze your list:
I cut down and used the mounts that came off the straight 6... breathtakingly simple
I made my own adapter (to the transmission) out of a plate of 1" aluminum (because I knew that all it did was space the engine forward 1"), and used all the stuff that was on the FJ40 for everything else. Even if not, it's $100 at worst.
carb comes with the motor as does the air cleaner.
Speedo-cable never moved so why replace it?
hoses, I spliced and diced... dirty little secret, you can cut a hose down and use exhaust tubing to join them back together.
Fuel system? it's the same system, lift pump to carb
alternator, two choices, I went with GM because it's so easy, but I've also seen plenty simply remake the top bracket and use the toyota alternator.
t-case mount? why? it's not moving.
labor to install? lol - I guess this is why I have such a problem with what you're saying. You type but don't help. Anyone who has trouble doing what I suggest... I have and I will travel to help them do it (or they can do the work in my shop...)
Radiator - presuming it's bad and needs replacement - don't tell the chinese you'll be willing to pay $300 for what I got delivered for just over $100.


And I'll say it again to the OP because it seems to have gotten lost in mr. negative... I have a instrument cluster I don't need - if you want it, it's yours.

And the best part of all, updating the chevy straight 6 to a chevy V8....
Ok, Im not out to insult anybody or take insults, Im just giving my opinion. See ya
 
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Ok I'm not sure if some posts got deleted but please don't hold a Fight club in here. This discussion's been interesting both pro and con.

And I'll say it again to the OP because it seems to have gotten lost in mr. negative... I have a instrument cluster I don't need - if you want it, it's yours.
..

Thank You very much, I tried to PM you about it, but the system kicks it back and says I'm not allowed to start conversations.

I'll try again later, not sure what's going on with it, as I've used it a half dozen times already.
 
I think you misunderstand why I'm doing this project. I'm not restoring to box stock and it's never been my intention to do so. I'm also not doing this as an investment or with the idea that I'll make all kinds of money off of it. I never plan to sell it and I'm only rebuilding it because I enjoy these sorts of projects immensely.

I also don't understand all the talk of $1000 FJ60's, because I have never seen a FJ60 in person or even one for sale in my area. I fail to see how spending $$$$ on a beater FJ60, going to to all the work and expense for another probably worn out engine is a better idea than swapping a cheap, reliable V8. Parts are still limited in availability and just as expensive for a 2f as a F.

I just want a drive-able, fun rig to cruise around in. Not going to cross the outback in it, or crawl over house sized boulders.


If you just want a fun driver than the 283 will work out admirably. The stock radiator is going to be very minimal for the application. However, since you live in a fairly cool area, it may be sufficient. The three speed and brittle Tcase may or may not live depending on how you drive but they suck. They also are likely to be rusty inside as well. Even your axle gears may be in need of work. The housings will likely be fine but the gears/bearings may not.

The three speed is minimal. IMHO get a TH350 or 700R4 and whatever GM tcase you can find. It'll make the cruiser more fun to drive and quieter.
TH350 and converter
Th350 to Toyota t case ADAPTER W/ t case (adapter and mini truck tcase for a th350)
Chevy transmission/tcase (tranny and tcase but "more expensive")
T350-np205 transmission-tcase Tranny and tcase


Then get a set of Cheap Dana (or GM axles six lug is of course better) and either outboard the springs or cut the long side axle down. The stock axles you have are very weak. The front end is not the upgradeable Birfield style but the older Ball and Claw. VERY easy to go Kaboom with tires over 29". The rear axle is 10 spline but you can upgrade the rear shafts by replacing the side gears to get to 30 spline. Which should do you just fine.
Chevy axle
Scout II dana 44 axle housing and more (scout D44 but..)
68 F250 Dana 60 rear axle (d60 rear likely old and 10 spline axles as well but easily upgradeable)
Dana 40 (front only)
!!!!!!!!Chevy Dana 44!!!!!!! (most of a front D44)



This was a 5 min craigslist search. Dunno how much driving a lot of them are or if they are worth it to you. But there are lots of options out there. I'd start taking things apart to see how far you need to go into the truck to see if they are worth salvaging.

Might be a good idea to take a look at this tho. Bring a battery and starter and see what compression numbers you can get off it. That'll tell you if it's worth more than scrap. Or call them and see if they will do it.
Toyota land cruiser engin

There are always additional options and possibilities out there. Just gotta look around :)
 
Thanks for the advice. So the stock axles are really that poor? I've spent my entire life hearing that old Toyota's are some stout rigs, is the weak drive train just specific to the early Land Cruisers? Quite a number of V8 powered Minitrucks around.

I've been looking around for a different manual to swap in, but I'm thinking I'll just upgrade the other parts as they wear out or break. If the 3spd blows I'll replace it with whatever manual and Tcase I can make fit. All of my other cars have been Auto's, so I'm thinking I'll stay with a manual for the novelty of it.

I'm not the cool,wet side though, I live in Yakima, on the hot desert side. :D If the stock radiator is not enough I'll figure out an upgrade, ought to be able to find a new 4 core that could be made to fit.I'll keep an eye out for a good deal I guess.

The update on the engine- 283 did not work out, as I was on my way to get it in Tacoma he called and told me he had sold it to a buddy of his the night before. Sucks but whatever, at least he called me and saved me from making most of the trip for nothing.

I'm thinking one of these days when I get off of work early I'll hit the junk yards and see what they have around, I'd prefer a 283 because they are a bit hotter spec stock, but I'm guessing I'll end up with a 305 just based on the numbers made, it should be the cheapest to start with, and based on what I'm reading they can make more than enough power.
 
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The really old axles were 1.30 (ish) diameter but only 10 spline. Those are easily upgraded, but the front ball and claw axles are not easily upgraded. With a lathe IIRC it is possible to retrofit a set of minitruck birfields in there, but I've never really wanted to try. Drum brakes front and rear are problematic because they just need more adjustment than other systems out there. Also the old axles had single circuit brakes utilizing 9mm brake fittings.. And that is a nightmare when any issues arise.
Switching to later model 40/55 axles really adds a ton of strength.

The really old one piece tcases were made with brittle aluminum. That compounded with offset front and rear axles makes for an explosive combination. Toyota upgraded them multiple times over the years. The last tcase that came in a 40 is the "split" tcase that is significantly stronger and can handle V8 power easily..

Old SM420's are a great option and much stronger than the toyota three speed. Plus you get a granny low. For freeway driving, a overdrive is a great thing. But all options get expensive rapidly.. the 2WD SM420 will almost directly bolt to the bellhousing (no adapter plate required) of a F series motor. The 2wd units had a 10 spline output that (with a plate adapter) can bolt to the SM420.

I'm sure that a standard muncie 4 speed would be just about as easy. I just have never tried it.

The stock 4 speed transmissions were much stronger than the three speeds and are a heck of a lot more driveable. If you can find a set it'll be a great option.

IMHO the only reason to put a 305 in a truck is to make sure that a 350 fits. I'd happily run a 283/327/350 anyday over a 305. From looking at pricing down here. The 350 has tanked. Everyone wants the new motors (and for good reason). If you have a pick a part yard not too far away they are great sources. 350 should be the same price as a 305.. :)

I'd seriously take a gander at the gears in the tranny/ tcase and axles. I got a rear axle from a buddy in portland. The axle had been sitting for a while and everything above the oil line had rusted. I know your area is drier, but you need to change the oil anyway, so knowing exactly what you have to start with is the best way to get rolling.
 
BTW, that cruiser is bad ass. If it were mine I'd keep it primarily stock. It's just got the sweet retro feel to it.

But, it's your cruiser and I'm a big proponent of the "best" cruiser is the one that makes the owner happy :)
 
The really old axles were 1.30 (ish) diameter but only 10 spline. Those are easily upgraded, but the front ball and claw axles are not easily upgraded. With a lathe IIRC it is possible to retrofit a set of minitruck birfields in there, but I've never really wanted to try. Drum brakes front and rear are problematic because they just need more adjustment than other systems out there. Also the old axles had single circuit brakes utilizing 9mm brake fittings.. And that is a nightmare when any issues arise.
Switching to later model 40/55 axles really adds a ton of strength.

The really old one piece tcases were made with brittle aluminum. That compounded with offset front and rear axles makes for an explosive combination. Toyota upgraded them multiple times over the years. The last tcase that came in a 40 is the "split" tcase that is significantly stronger and can handle V8 power easily..

Old SM420's are a great option and much stronger than the toyota three speed. Plus you get a granny low. For freeway driving, a overdrive is a great thing. But all options get expensive rapidly.. the 2WD SM420 will almost directly bolt to the bellhousing (no adapter plate required) of a F series motor. The 2wd units had a 10 spline output that (with a plate adapter) can bolt to the SM420.

I'm sure that a standard muncie 4 speed would be just about as easy. I just have never tried it.

The stock 4 speed transmissions were much stronger than the three speeds and are a heck of a lot more driveable. If you can find a set it'll be a great option.

IMHO the only reason to put a 305 in a truck is to make sure that a 350 fits. I'd happily run a 283/327/350 anyday over a 305. From looking at pricing down here. The 350 has tanked. Everyone wants the new motors (and for good reason). If you have a pick a part yard not too far away they are great sources. 350 should be the same price as a 305.. :)

I'd seriously take a gander at the gears in the tranny/ tcase and axles. I got a rear axle from a buddy in portland. The axle had been sitting for a while and everything above the oil line had rusted. I know your area is drier, but you need to change the oil anyway, so knowing exactly what you have to start with is the best way to get rolling.

Interesting, I'll keep an eye out at the junkyards for a chevy 4spd.

Why I've been looking at the 283/305 over a 350 is better fuel economy at the 2600rpm 60mph cruiseing speed. My dodge W250 with 3spd auto, 3.55 gears, 235/85 tires and a nice 360 get's crap mileage at anything over 55mph ( 2000rpm), I think at 70mph(2600rpm) I'm getting less than 7mpg. I can't see a 350 doing any better than that.\

I'm going to do something about the brakes, add a power boosted 2 circuit master cylinder at the least.

Edit: If the 1piece Tcase is that weak, why is everyone swapping them onto the later 4spd's?
BTW, that cruiser is bad ass. If it were mine I'd keep it primarily stock. It's just got the sweet retro feel to it.

But, it's your cruiser and I'm a big proponent of the "best" cruiser is the one that makes the owner happy :)

Thanks. I'm keeping the interior and exterior mostly like stock, just not very enthusiastic about driving in 21 century traffic with a 1930's engine and brakes. I'm planning on a mostly hidden stereo for example, no holes in the dash for a head unit.
 
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You are driving a brick. Any good motor should hit 12 to 15 mpg without issue. There are a ton of 40's out there that get that fuel range with a multitude of motors..

Then you are likely swapping out all of the 9mm lines. Not a huge deal but replacement wheel cylinders are getting harder to find.

Some light reading on old brake parts :D
Search Results for Query: 9mm brake | IH8MUD Forum
 
Speaking of axles and such - JT Differentials a just a bit up the road from you (okay, a bit up the road, but on your side on the hills). Carl is a FJ nut and carries Nitro gear. I can't speak highly enough about him/them. They have solutions, or at least good ideas.

if you ever go full suspension change - box Chevy trucks are a dime a dozen.... buy the whole truck, use the running gear.
 
Funny to read about how weak fj 40 components are. Yet over the years the Land Cruiser has been known as one of the most toughest, strongest, reliable vehicles ever built. I guess people have different opinions on what tough or weak is.
I think I'll Trust the years of experience first hand on just how tough these rigs are. Along with thousands of other people that have similar experiences.

:cheers:
 
Got the floor shift parts installed on the transmission today.
Transmission and T case look fantastic inside. Gears are in great shape, no chipping or rounded teeth. The gear oil is even relatively fresh and clean.


Anyone think my factory muffler would have any use left in it for someone else? It's pretty rusty, but might work for a while . Don't want to scrap it if someone could use it. The pipe is in bad shape it was crushed a few times.
 
Somebody might want it. Put it up for shippind in the mud classifides.
 
Did some rust repair today. Welded in a piece of thick 2" C channel for the center and flat sheet for the fenders.



 
Man, what is it with people on Craigslist. I have money, you have engine. We make a deal and trade money for engine. How hard can it be? 0-3 right now.

Well see how this next 350 looks.
 

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