given the look of the heads - I'll be the bearings look new or nearly new. I love pulling old engines apart and seeing that whoever owned it took such good care... kudos to your grandpa and dad.
Cheap Thrills, my '64 FJ40.
- Thread starter RustyRanger
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- #42
Well not much new to report. I attempted the pull the engine out today. Got as far as removing the transmission, but the input shaft is binding so bad I can't get it out past 1.5". It's really sticking. So the engine is still just sitting there. Today's been frustrating to say the least. Going to have to make some lifting plates that use 4 or more bolts per side, as the ones I made tried to bend the head bolts. Not good considering the odd size.
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you tried to leave the transmission in place? you've really got to stop learning the way I do... good luck tomorrow.
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- #44
No I'm trying to remove the transmission separately so I don't have to drag 1000lbs out of the engine bay in one piece, bending the head bolts in the process. I'm already going to have to straighten 3 of them as it is.
ugh, sorry man.
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I used an engine crane to drag motor and trans at once and it was wayyyy easier, both coming out and going back in. I found some bolts that fit in the head/block/engine mount and it was fine. Pulled it all at once, separated on the floor and boom - job done. Is also about a million times easier aligning input shaft into clutch disc this way as opposed to if the trans was still in the truck.
- Thread starter
- #47
Where did you find M13x1.75 bolts? as far as I can tell they are kinda one off. I tried a regular 1/2", but it only went in 3 threads before binding.
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- #48
The mighty hunters gloat over the kill.
What a nightmare getting that out was. We had to bolt the transmission back up, drag it out and then use 3ft pry bars to get it off once we had it out, the input shaft had gotten in a serious bind.
Now, I have a problem. To take the bell housing off I need to remove the clutch and flywheel. But the engine is stuck, so I can't unbolt any of it.
Is there anything stopping me from removing the crank/flywheel/clutch from the bottom end, lifting it out and then taking it all apart outside the bell housing? Otherwise, this engines a boat anchor.
I'm also thinking I'll add a floor shift kit. The column linkages are in middling shape. Quite a bit of wear on the joints.
At least some of the projects are going easily.
What a nightmare getting that out was. We had to bolt the transmission back up, drag it out and then use 3ft pry bars to get it off once we had it out, the input shaft had gotten in a serious bind.
Now, I have a problem. To take the bell housing off I need to remove the clutch and flywheel. But the engine is stuck, so I can't unbolt any of it.
Is there anything stopping me from removing the crank/flywheel/clutch from the bottom end, lifting it out and then taking it all apart outside the bell housing? Otherwise, this engines a boat anchor.
I'm also thinking I'll add a floor shift kit. The column linkages are in middling shape. Quite a bit of wear on the joints.
At least some of the projects are going easily.
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JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
You lost me... Why can't you unbolt the bell housing ?
if the engine is a boat anchor, an air hammer would make short work of the piston(s) - then it should spin over nicely.
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- #51
I'll see if I can explain it better.
There are mounting bolts up inside the bell housing, that i cannot reach or turn because of the location. Can't fit a socket and ratchet on them or turn them with a wrench. I cannot remove the clutch or flywheel to get to those bolts( like my FSM says I need to do before removeing the houseing) because 3/4 of the bolts( clutch and flywheel) are unreachable inside the bell housing due to the crank being stuck.
I'm asking, if its possible to remove the crank/flywheel/clutch, by unbolting the main bearings and rods, removing the pistons/rods separately and then lifting the whole mess out at once. I want to make sure that I can do this, before I go and mess something up.
I'm not sure if some of my problems with this sort of thing are due to my using of the original Factory service manual I have, as it only lists one way of doing things. "You must do this, this and only then you can do that " No mention of other ways of doing anything.
Also, did the later ones stop using such weird fastener sizes? The transmission mounting bolts and the head bolts are M13x1.5 and M13x1.75 on this on this one. Weird weird weird...
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JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
Are you able to slide the tranny out?
- Thread starter
- #53
Yeah, got it out. But it was stuck tight. Needed pry bars, and it took some work to get it loose.
JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
Then you should be able to do what you asked ...but... You may have an issue with getting to some of the connecting rod most likely
Give it a shot
Give it a shot
Yes, you can pull the crank to get it all apart. I was in the same boat last fall. Locked up motor, tried to get unstuck with no luck. Pulled all the bearing caps and worked the crank out. Kind of a pain, it was the only way i could think of to get apart. Good luck, Steve
- Thread starter
- #56
Thanks, it's good to know it will work.
Painted the Grille to see how the color works. I think it looks fantastic, similar to the non-ruined paint I found under the bezel looked, but not as shiny.
Saw a set of (I think) toyota 16" split rims with some ancient 7.50x16 tires at the scrap yard today. Sadly they were in really bad shape. The ring was all sorts of ruined,bent and dented in. Doubt they could ever be usable or safe.
Painted the Grille to see how the color works. I think it looks fantastic, similar to the non-ruined paint I found under the bezel looked, but not as shiny.
Saw a set of (I think) toyota 16" split rims with some ancient 7.50x16 tires at the scrap yard today. Sadly they were in really bad shape. The ring was all sorts of ruined,bent and dented in. Doubt they could ever be usable or safe.
- Thread starter
- #57
Got the engine pulled down.
It's a beauty.
No sludge.
Got the piston loose. Just going to hone it and put new rings in there. Might put up a wanted add for 1 set of STD rings, just for the bum cylinder. I check the others and they are all in spec, only worn a tiny bit.
With this rod unhooked I can spin the engine over. Feels perfect, bearings are exactly what you want to see, no cracks, no pits ore scoring. No thin spots or any damage of any kind.
Where's the best place to get a clutch kit? I've looked at Specter but I want to make sure I don't miss a good deal elsewhere.
It's a beauty.
No sludge.
Got the piston loose. Just going to hone it and put new rings in there. Might put up a wanted add for 1 set of STD rings, just for the bum cylinder. I check the others and they are all in spec, only worn a tiny bit.
With this rod unhooked I can spin the engine over. Feels perfect, bearings are exactly what you want to see, no cracks, no pits ore scoring. No thin spots or any damage of any kind.
Where's the best place to get a clutch kit? I've looked at Specter but I want to make sure I don't miss a good deal elsewhere.
JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
Oem Toyota clutch from Beno 
- Thread starter
- #59
Would rings for a 67 work in my 65? I keep coming across ITM sets listed as F engines 67-74. Is there a major difference or would they work?
I had to buy one ring for a 472 Cadillac I built years ago.... I've no idea if the company is still in business (did a quick google search, no) but to say they were old-school would be wrong, they are before old school. Was called Seattle Ring (or something similar)... if not, I'm sure you can buy single rings or sets, believe it or not there are more then just me who are ham fisted and break a ring on install.
