If I recall correctly the 87 octane rating was a "minimum requirement" rating.
Usually here in Utah we can get 87, 89, or 91 octane at the pimps so I run 89.
Minimum. Correct.
And if you're not experiencing detonation on 87 that's all you need.
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If I recall correctly the 87 octane rating was a "minimum requirement" rating.
Usually here in Utah we can get 87, 89, or 91 octane at the pimps so I run 89.
I'm open to suggestion.
I can route the PCV hose in front of the throttle body (throttle plate). I would need to Tee into the same hose as the current air vent which in my mind is sucking gases out of the crankcase when the engine is running. I just want to keep a OE factory look on the PCV hose to keep the smog guy happy.
As far as Don being a good friend I don't know if you are messing with me on the throttle plate statement???
Fixed it... is this better?"In my town 87 to 89 octane is 10 cents per gallon, that's $2.20 per tank."
First time I read that line I immediately looked at where the poster is located. Last time I saw local gasoline prices anywhere close to that was in Iraq almost 20 years ago. I had to reread that post a couple of times and the other posts for context then it made sense.
Hah, I did a double take on that post as well.
I always go 87, but the same concept applies when you overthink a 1/2mpg difference on a tank. Even 1mpg, even at these prices, is not a lot. Drink one less beer and you’re good.
True. I guess I don’t drive a ton, about 10-12k annually.
However, I have to think that if you own an 80, $50 a month isn’t a huge concern but on top of everything else increasing, it certainly adds up.
As a college kid I can attest, if I drove my cruiser to work and school this year I'd be paying almost $400 a month, assuming gas doesn't get any higher than it is.You can buy an 80 for 4 or 5k. Not everyone with an 80 is rolling in money.
We've had college kids on here discussing driving theirs daily. I bet $50 is a lot.
This is similar to my industry when people tell me they overclocked their processor prior to them being built with HEAVY gaming in mind...and I'd simply ask, "Why? You're burning up your processor faster by getting minimal gains out of an already stressed gaming rig"If you've advanced timing you likely need higher octane. But at what cost of power?
You're spending more money for what, 10hp? Maybe.
When I bought my new 265's everyone around me laughed...And I know...265's are small tires compared to the 35's, 37's, and even larger (in some cases) that other Cruiser owners put under their rig. But for me, personally, why put a 50 pound anchor on each corner while I'm baselining her and not taking her out on trails yet? So, I went with the smaller/lighter tires (Cooper Adventurer 265/70r16)...the only reason I even put new tires on was because the old ones were so bad they were dangerous. I'm planning on new tires and the lift next summer and with my Cruiser not my DD, I doubt those tires will even see 10K before I swap them out.Gary I really think what's killing the gas mileage is the steel beadlocks and 37" tires. Probably 1.5 to 2 or more miles per gallon.
You said your self that for the last few years your just using it to commute to work.
I know it won't look as cool but just put you stock wheel & tires back on for now
I keep all my lubricants and parts up to date so the truck is healthy and reliable, but in theory, that’s also how I’ll get my best mileage, next to driving habits. Personally, it is what it is and I’m not interested in spending extra $$ in hopes of squeezing out a few more miles per tank. I can easily save more money per month just by skipping a few beers.
The friend I bought it from let me take it on an extended test cruise, as I wanted to get an idea of the mileage I could get on a trip. Came back with 15.5 cruising at 60, which is fine by me, considering it’s a lifted 80. Otherwise, I average about 13 in general. More like 12.5 in summer when I’m driving shorter distances, and 13.5 in winter when I drive longer most days. That’s gentle driving, with a J lift and 315 ATs.
Here's my daily-driver 1997 80-series for comparison.
Current setup averaging 230+ miles in-town, 260+/- in-town/highway:
- 2.5" OME lift
- 4.88 Yukon gearing in diffs (don't ever buy Yukon gears )
- Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs in 315 flavor (35's) on stock wheels
- ARB front bumper (no winch)
Prior setup averaging 240+ miles in-town, 280+ in-town/highway:
- 2.5" OME lift
- 4.11 stock gearing in diffs
- Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs in 285 flavor (33's) on stock wheels
- ARB front bumper (no winch)
Truck is not regularly loaded up as I try not to carry too much unnecessary stuff for in-town. I do have a plywood sheet cut to size as a mounting base in the boot with Engel-35 plus rubbermaid of roadside emergency, construction site gear and other odds'n'ends. These things have lived inside the 80 since almost the beginning of ownership in 12/2013.
I keep the 315 tires inflated for street-use (40psi) and maintenance up-to-date with exception of an O2 sensor needing replacing which probably isn't helping mileage.
Also tend not to fill the OEM auxiliary fuel tank unless I'm hitting the highway for a roadtrip (if you haven't experienced it, watching your main tank fill-up with gas while rolling down the highway is the s***).
Increasing tire size was the real mileage killer going from 285 to 315 but likely would've been worse if I hadn't re-geared (did I mention not to buy Yukon gears? ). I do recall being amazed at the highway mileage I got on 285 and stock gears but, y'know, 315 just looks so choice so now I pay for it .
If anyone's interested follow this LINK to gearing calculations between stock 4.11, 4.56 and 4.88 or check out the pic below.
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