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Can you elaborate on this? I'm just having a hard time visualizing what this is doing. Is the fuel running through this cooler? Do you have any pics? I'm at my wits end with this problem. The temps in Vegas just got up to high 90's for a couple days and I've already had an issue.
After reading your post I'd just like to throw out a comment. Placing that cooler with highly flammable fuel running through it out in front of your radiator may not be the best location, or a wise idea.
Hey there. Is adding the swivel hose necessary or preferred? I just sourced a VC120 and ready to replace it. Any problem if I just connect the two upper lines?
thats all i did. seems fine to me.
Same message here a month ago. Walked into the store to order one. Showed up the next day.
I ended up calling the local store and they were able to order one that should arrive this week. Not sure what the issue is with ordering them online.
On the top. VC117 is way too long, about 3-4 inches too long and as thick as VC120, it will hit the hood if you try to mount it in the brackets.
Good info thanksAll -
After owning my 80 for over 2 years, experiencing higher than normal pressure when removing the gas cap the entire time, I tried many solutions. However, I've been reluctant to replace the charcoal canister due to the cost -- approx $300 (plus or minus), and it's a dealer-only item.
Many of us have posted/read info on this thread:
Excessive fuel tank pressure - https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/292965-excessive-fuel-tank-pressure.html
I tried a junk yard canister from a 1997 80 with absolutely no affect. I tested hoses, attempted to test pressures, made sure the VSV worked correctly, etc. As best I could tell the system was at least functioning.
After much research, I found this alternative canister for $36 !!!
If the link gets stale, it's Autozone part VC120 for early 1990s GM cars with the 3.1L V6 (pontiac, oldsmobile). The dimensions were close enough to ours, so I pulled the trigger on a hunch. And it works beautifully! I wanted to run thru several fill-ups before I posted, and I can say that after 6 fill-ups, my 80 finally operates like a normal car (as the gas pump anyway). No sound, no air escaping, etc.
It has the same style connectors and pulls in fresh air from the bottom just like the 80s. Using the highly calibrated "blow with your mouth" technique, I confirmed that this canister is almost identical to the stock 80s as described in the FSM. Minor details on mounting:
Info/links:
- There is no hose connection on the bottom like the 80s, so you can remove the hose completely. This replacement canister has it's own filter and cover on the bottom. In stock 80s, the hose simply routes down to the frame area. I assume to pull in fresher, cooler air.
- The diameter is just a bit larger than the stock 80s, but you can see in the pic below that it fits in the stock bracket, in the stock location, using the stock hoses. You'll notice that I used a ziptie in place of the bolt on the bracket - a longer bolt would be better, but I didn't have one around. And it's a tight fit, so I don't think it's going anywhere
- The "tank" port on the canister uses a larger diameter hose barb, but a little persuasion works.
How to test your canister from 1997 FSM
-I suspect that the purge check valve in my canister was sticking. You should have suction into the engine on the purge hose as described in the link above. This suction should be able to keep up with vapors generated in the tank as long as the canister flows freely.
I haven't tested this after driving up to high elevations yet, but based on my experience so far, I think it's going to do great. Hope this helps out the community as much as it's helped me.
To throw in my 2cents here ... I just removed my fuel tank because of a leak ... some years ago I had to replace my filler neck because it was also leaking where it had rusted at the bracket near the axle .. thats another story. However prior to the tank leak (and after the new filler neck) I was also getting high pressure release from the tank when I removed the cap. Of course once the tank started to leak (at the top) the pressure release issue disappeared
... anyway, now I have the tank off and can see that the leak is from a rust hole on the upper part of the tank ... it is not at the 'crease/fold' that many others report as the location of their leaks. The other observation was that when the vent line was disconnected from the tank ... there did not seem to be any obstruction in the line between the charcoal canister and the fuel tank ... I also disconnected all the lines on the charcoal canister and tested it IAW the shop manual. It tested ok. So I am now suspicious of the "Toyota 77380-26010 - VALVE ASSY, FUEL CUT OFF" which resides under a small fitting adjacent to the tank fuel pump outlet. This is the fitting that the breather hose from the tank to the charcoal canister is connected to ... in fact when I removed the 'fuel cut off' from the tank .... and attempted to blow into it .. it seems as though the air flow is being obstructed. I am now curious if this may be the culprit of the pressure problem folks have experienced? In any event ... I have ordered a new one. Along with the various straps and brackets etc I need to rehang the new tank....
PS .. I ordered my tank from Rock Auto (its arrived and it 'looks' ok) But I waited until the tank was of before ordering the straps etc from "Amayama" (thanks to those who identified this source) ... The Canadian dealer wanted $230.00 Cdn for one strap .... Amayama's price was $53.73 Cdn... of course there is also a Fedex charge. But it still represented a significant savings. And my local dealer would not/could not tell me when I would see the parts.. so we will see how keen Fedex is to earn their money.
The new canister doesn't need the lower hose, maybe drilling a hole into it is causing the issue? Maybe try plugging the hole and see if it helps. You sure you routed the top tubes to the correct connections?
