Charcoal Canister - Great Option! (1 Viewer)

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What elevation are you at, what grade of fuel do you use and once getting the cap how full was the tank starting off and when you tested for pressure?
I filled up @~6500ft with 91 octane plus octane booster. Drove to ~8000ft and parked. Heard some strange sounds and decided to crack the filler cap and got about 2 minutes of fuel splatter out the filler neck followed by another 2+ minutes of boiling.
I approached my issue a bit differently after doing the canister check-valve function check (which did not pass, unless the FSM is exactly opposite of what should happen (not likely)).
At any rate, I still have the OEM canister but on last test run didn't have the over pressure in the tank like before.
I'm not comfortable sharing what I did to my canister until more testing is performed. (I actually did post what I did, but it's burred in a thread on the issue somewhere).
Some say it's the ethanol in the fuel. Others say it's the altitude coupled with the ethanol.
Many say their issue went away after changing the canister. So far my issue has gone away and I didn't change the canister. So who knows.
 
Hm. So ethanol fuel plus you added even more with the booster...right? So we're you basically running e85 at this point?
 
Hm. So ethanol fuel plus you added even more with the booster...right? So we're you basically running e85 at this point?
No idea. It was GumOuts booster. Would 10 ounces of booster take the 10% eth fuel to 70% eth (E-85)? Again, no idea. I'd added the booster chasing a pinging issue at the time.
 
Hey guys. I changed my 1997 canister w the autozone one recommended here. I still have excessive pressure blowing out behind my cap and random fuel smell under the hood. I bought a new gas cap today and so far so good. Could the dang gas cap be an issue here? I’ve only driven it 20 miles, but no pressure when I got home and unscrewed the gas cap. Prolly wishful thinking I’m sure.


Did you change the lines as well? Phhkit.com sells a gates equivalent for pretty cheap.
 
Probably not to 70% but the charcoal isn't picky about what it absorbs...alcohol or gas fumes. I think you actually made it worse with the booster but i can't be 100% sure on that. I run ethanol free and i don't get the pressure. That said i did do the canister swap while i was still running 10% and it solved my problem of pressure at low altitude. Couple months before I switched to ethanol free and during the time I didn't hit any high elevations.

For the ping ..I am assuming you already checked timing. Once a year i run stp multisystem cleaner with a tank of gas. But I don't have a ping issue and it just runs normal to me with it in there.
 
What elevation are you at, what grade of fuel do you use and once getting the cap how full was the tank starting off and when you tested for pressure?
I’m in northeast AL, under 2000ft. I try to buy Chevron 93 octane. The gas tank is roughly on half a tank. The other day the tank was on 1/8 and when I unscrewed the cap, it blew for maybe 4 minutes. The first 30 seconds was a very strong push of extremely hot fumes
 
I’m in northeast AL, under 2000ft. I try to buy Chevron 93 octane. The gas tank is roughly on half a tank. The other day the tank was on 1/8 and when I unscrewed the cap, it blew for maybe 4 minutes. The first 30 seconds was a very strong push of extremely hot fumes
Well Down here in the south, it is warm so I would expect our canisters to work extra hard in the summer, but i am surprised changing your gas cap helped as i think gas caps on vehicles with canisters prevent venting, where older vehicles vented through the cap.
 
Well Down here in the south, it is warm so I would expect our canisters to work extra hard in the summer, but i am surprised changing your gas cap helped as i think gas caps on vehicles with canisters prevent venting, where older vehicles vented through the cap.
The gas cap was just wishful dreaming. The pressure build up is definitely still there. Some have suggested I check my fuel pressure regulator. I hate to let Toyota have a gander.. my Toyota dealer doesn’t see many 80s anymore
 
As someone who has been using the replacement canister in this thread for 7 years with good results, I wish i had kept the OEM can.

A little time with a file or a grinding tool on the dremel gets the lid off (just remove some metal around the outer diameter where it is crimped on). Dump it out, clean the valves, replace the filter pad, refill with charcoal, and glue it back together.
 
As someone who has been using the replacement canister in this thread for 7 years with good results, I wish i had kept the OEM can.

The VC120 is working great for me. That said, the OEM canister has a new home on a shelf in my garage. There it will stay until I have some spare time (hahahaha) to cut into it.
 
The VC120 is working great for me. That said, the OEM canister has a new home on a shelf in my garage. There it will stay until I have some spare time (hahahaha) to cut into it.

Yeah it works great. Just disappointed in myself that i didn't even consider refurbishing the original can.
 
I used autozone VC413 instead because it has the outlet on the bottom like the OEM canister. The outlet is bigger than the hose so I had to pick up a 1/4 barb hose fitting and siliconed it in.
How does the VC413 fit? It looks a little more like the original
 
How does the VC413 fit? It looks a little more like the original

There's plastic tabs on the sides of the cansiterand they just sit on the metal straps once you tighten them.

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Thank you for this great find. Bought the VC 120 last week and installed today. I had occasional whooshing. It was hot out, I could actually see fuel vapors when I took off the tank line. Per FSM - remember to disconnect from your negative (-) battery terminal before starting. The hardest part was getting the bottom breather hose off. Where does that one go? It was zip-tied in so left it in there.

I didn't remove any of the brackets from the body, just the three nuts (12mm) to release the band clamps and get it all out. As others have mentioned putting the bottom bracket on the VC120 body is tight to the fuse box and wire loom. I put it in with the top bracket only and didn't zip tie til the very end so I could play with the height.

The fuel tank barb is slightly wider and takes some convincing to get on but once everything was set, put the hose clamps back on, tightened the clamps to the bracket and added a zip tie temporarily until I get a 1/4" bolt which I'm sure I have a spare of somewhere.

I wish I had tested the replacement unit before putting it in but will give it a drive shortly and hope to have the same great experience as everyone else. I do think it's time I started keeping a small fire extinguisher with me though.

Questions:
1. Does anyone have part numbers for the tank and purge lines? They weren't rock hard but close. Or are generic fine here.
2. Anyone know what the two slots on the CC bracket are for?
20-0726_CharcoalCanisterReplacement.jpg
 
Generic fuel vapor/emissions hose is just fine for the canister lines.

That bottom vent hose from the OEM canister simply vents to the inside of the frame below the canister. I think there's one section of hard line with a single mounting bolt where it ducks inside the frame. Just remove that and toss it. Or leave it there as it isn't going to hurt anything.
 

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