Didn't know that, glad I didn't toss my original!!
Charcoal Canister - Great Option!
- Thread starter Jeeper
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Have you experienced any issues with the replacement, or is it just to keep the oem style part for the sake of the appearance of originality?
Well that’s curious
No issues, just miss the OE fitment and originality.
Just a suggestion,"RTV/Silicone" doesn't play well with fuel, or fuel vapors, it will turn into a gooey jelly when exposed to fuel so i wouldn't use that to secure your cap In fact, I'd use a large hose clamp to secure the cap, that way you'll be able to easily remove the canister cap when the time comes to replace the charcoal inside it, In my case I've had to replace the charcoal in my canister once already, and having an easily removable cap made the job super easy,
Amazing! Thanks for the info. I'll be installing one of these ASAP.All -
After owning my 80 for over 2 years, experiencing higher than normal pressure when removing the gas cap the entire time, I tried many solutions. However, I've been reluctant to replace the charcoal canister due to the cost -- approx $300 (plus or minus), and it's a dealer-only item.
Many of us have posted/read info on this thread:
Excessive fuel tank pressure - https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/292965-excessive-fuel-tank-pressure.html
I tried a junk yard canister from a 1997 80 with absolutely no affect. I tested hoses, attempted to test pressures, made sure the VSV worked correctly, etc. As best I could tell the system was at least functioning.
After much research, I found this alternative canister for $36 !!!
If the link gets stale, it's Autozone part VC120 for early 1990s GM cars with the 3.1L V6 (pontiac, oldsmobile). The dimensions were close enough to ours, so I pulled the trigger on a hunch. And it works beautifully! I wanted to run thru several fill-ups before I posted, and I can say that after 6 fill-ups, my 80 finally operates like a normal car (as the gas pump anyway). No sound, no air escaping, etc.
It has the same style connectors and pulls in fresh air from the bottom just like the 80s. Using the highly calibrated "blow with your mouth" technique, I confirmed that this canister is almost identical to the stock 80s as described in the FSM. Minor details on mounting:
Info/links:
- There is no hose connection on the bottom like the 80s, so you can remove the hose completely. This replacement canister has it's own filter and cover on the bottom. In stock 80s, the hose simply routes down to the frame area. I assume to pull in fresher, cooler air.
- The diameter is just a bit larger than the stock 80s, but you can see in the pic below that it fits in the stock bracket, in the stock location, using the stock hoses. You'll notice that I used a ziptie in place of the bolt on the bracket - a longer bolt would be better, but I didn't have one around. And it's a tight fit, so I don't think it's going anywhere
- The "tank" port on the canister uses a larger diameter hose barb, but a little persuasion works.
How to test your canister from 1997 FSM
-I suspect that the purge check valve in my canister was sticking. You should have suction into the engine on the purge hose as described in the link above. This suction should be able to keep up with vapors generated in the tank as long as the canister flows freely.
I haven't tested this after driving up to high elevations yet, but based on my experience so far, I think it's going to do great. Hope this helps out the community as much as it's helped me.
UZJ100 2001 - Natural White, Stock (poor mans resto)
FZJ80 1997 - Nightshadow Pearl, Stock (refurbishing in process)
For those looking, I used the link above from Rockauto. Like some of the other aftermarket canisters, this one is slightly larger in diameter than the OEM unit and has a vented bottom instead of the hose barb on the bottom. Also, the hose fittings on the top are plastic versus metal and the fitting going to the fuel tank is slightly larger than the purge fitting. I used a longer metric bolt, washer, and nut to tighten the canister into the upper bracket and left the lower bracket off.
I used new vacuum hose going to/from the canister...not sure if it is supposed to be fuel hose instead.
My local Land Cruiser specialist shop (Torfab) in WA suggested this below, claiming it is the universal replacement part
Dorman Charcoal Canister Part # 911-478. Has anyone had any experience with this charcoal canister? yea or nay?
Dorman Charcoal Canister Part # 911-478. Has anyone had any experience with this charcoal canister? yea or nay?
Idaho Savage
GOLD Star
I mean, generally speaking, it doesn't get much more reputable than @torfab . So I'd say go with it.
How did you hook it up? @clx16
Yeah I thought so too, I just wanted to confirm because tbh I’ve never really seen anything about this charcoal canister on the forums. The only ones I’ve noticed mentioned a few times are the AC Delco 215-153 and VC-120. I’ll be going with the Dorman charcoal canister and plan on installing it soon.
I had one used CC laying around, so out of boredom I followed LCP instructions to rebuild it. Took roughly 2hrs and the grinding of the "lip" was the most time consuming. I drilled the ball bearing and reassembled it back using the Grey RTV. 1500 miles since the CC rebuild and no hissing what's so ever when refueling.
Same, mostly. I honestly don't think it took me that long. The grinding part went pretty quick for me: I used my 12" disc grinder and it was really quick and easy to control. Drilled out that check valve, sealed with RTV. I've gone probably 5000 miles so far and...
- No more hiss
- No fuel smell
I went with the ACDelco 215-153 replacement canister. I was about to install it and noticed the bottom felt loose. Is it normal for the bottom to pop right off or is this faulty unit?In case anyone was interested in the installation of the ACDelco 215-153, I'll post some pictures to document my set up.
Here's the FSM page on the OEM Canister, showing the lines for Tank, Purge, and air.
Here's the AC Delco setup. It comes capped from the factory, but I removed the cap from the air line and left it open to replicate the bottom hose of the original set up.
As others have said, I deleted the bottom bracket and used an extended bolt for the top. The bolt I used was an M6-1X50. It's just long enough to work. I also just left the air line open, as I don't see too much purpose in routing it down to the frame, but if someone convinces me otherwise, I'll add a hose there.
I also replaced the hoses, and hose clamps. I found the small section of old hose on the purge end was extremely loose, and may have been leaking.
I live in California, so I kept all my original equipment for smog purposes.
Everyone I've replaced (I have two 80's) has been that way. They are a disposable item, I guess.
oh man, you fellas are still dinking around with the Vatozone special canisters? I switched over a GM vapor canister like what @TYM4FUN did and never looked back. $25 for an used one from U pull N pay, and mounted it under the cab then forget about it. No more smells. Bonus is that you get some space freed up in that original CC spot. 
oh man, you fellas are still dinking around with the Vatozone special canisters? I switched over a GM vapor canister like what @TYM4FUN did and never looked back. $25 for an used one from U pull N pay, and mounted it under the cab then forget about it. No more smells. Bonus is that you get some space freed up in that original CC spot.
View attachment 4058102
Any write up? Canister info?