Does anyone have another part number for VC120? Just tried to buy one on RockAuto and they're sold out. Hopefully more will be coming back.
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
The info in this thread is for 80 series cruisers. Seems that you have a 40 series. The purge line has to be connected to the engine intake, but typically thru a valve. Not sure how this system works on a 40 series, but there is likely more info on the 40 forum.Just finishing(is there a finish point?)complete restoration of 79 FJ40
Use the AC Delco 215-153 instead.
It has the three fittings for air, tank and purge
When it overpressurizes and fuel comes out of the air inlet, you will be safer with the OEM frame rail air port.
I thought I read the third port on the Delco get's plugged? or is this in regard to the guy with the 40?
EDIT: I just ordered a VC120 about 3 hours ago...
Just finishing(is there a finish point?)complete restoration of 79 FJ40, all smog equipment has been removed, but would like to use OEM charcoal canister to vent fuel tank, can anyone provide how to? My canister has 3 ports on top and one on bottom. Top ports are labeled “to fuel tank”, “purge”, 3rd. Port is not labeled but appears to be 5/16” or standard fuel line!
Thanks, Hondo
VC120 has a fresh air inlet at the bottom. It's just loosely covered with a cap and sucks in from the engine bay.I thought I read the third port on the Delco get's plugged? or is this in regard to the guy with the 40?
EDIT: I just ordered a VC120 about 3 hours ago...
Yea, I went with the Delco because it was closer to OEM design.Just want to chime in and say the VC120 has been working just fine for me. A bit of a pain to get one of the clamps around it, but it worked out. No pressurized tank for the past two months!
This seems to be a better option, as it appears it doesn't come into contact with the wire loom. for the barb fitting what is the canister size? Did you just use a 1/4 barb and 1/4 npt and then glue it in?I used autozone VC413 instead because it has the outlet on the bottom like the OEM canister. The outlet is bigger than the hose so I had to pick up a 1/4 barb hose fitting and siliconed it in.
I only used the 1/4 barb and `glued` it in. I forget what I used, either silicone or some JB weld. There's probably a better way to do it.This seems to be a better option, as it appears it doesn't come into contact with the wire loom. for the barb fitting what is the canister size? Did you just use a 1/4 barb and 1/4 npt and then glue it in?
Amazon product ASIN B07MTSSHB3
Vary interesting!Just a FYI to anyone who has gone down the route of replacing lines, charcoal canister, fuel caps, etc.
I spent month trying to figure out my issue. None worked so I ended up throwing a power steering cooler in-between the return to the fuel tank (Low pressure) and mounted it in front of the radiator on the driver side. 2 years later, no issue or leaks. Be sure to use the correct rated lines. This is what I used.
Amazon product ASIN B0006HNM66
I went ahead and installed the VC413, it's a bit small for the space and I couldn't get the straps tight around the canister. I jury rigged it by adding 2 Pex water tubes on either side of the canister to get the straps nice and tight. I'm not really happy with the install but it seems to work just fine. I drove it for about 30 minutes and there was no pressure when taking off the gas cap. So I think overall it fixed the problem.This seems to be a better option, as it appears it doesn't come into contact with the wire loom. for the barb fitting what is the canister size? Did you just use a 1/4 barb and 1/4 npt and then glue it in?