Does anyone have another part number for VC120? Just tried to buy one on RockAuto and they're sold out. Hopefully more will be coming back.
Charcoal Canister - Great Option! (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter Jeeper
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I got the VC120 online last month from Autozone. Part number VC120.
Oh wow. I checked that yesterday and the cart said it was sold out. Thanks for making me double check.
Just finishing(is there a finish point?)complete restoration of 79 FJ40, all smog equipment has been removed, but would like to use OEM charcoal canister to vent fuel tank, can anyone provide how to? My canister has 3 ports on top and one on bottom. Top ports are labeled “to fuel tank”, “purge”, 3rd. Port is not labeled but appears to be 5/16” or standard fuel line!
Thanks, Hondo
Thanks, Hondo
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The info in this thread is for 80 series cruisers. Seems that you have a 40 series. The purge line has to be connected to the engine intake, but typically thru a valve. Not sure how this system works on a 40 series, but there is likely more info on the 40 forum.
I thought I read the third port on the Delco get's plugged? or is this in regard to the guy with the 40?
EDIT: I just ordered a VC120 about 3 hours ago...
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You need at least 3 ports on a charcoal canister:
1. to fuel tank (lets air out of and into the fuel tank)
2. to intake manifold (sucks air through carbon to "recharge" it by removing captured fuel vapors)
3. to atmosphere.
1 and 2 should be on one end of the canister, 3 should be on the opposite end. #3 is often put on the same end as the other two by having an internal tube that goes down below all of the carbon. So if it has 4 ports for some reason, then you'd have to block one. and figure out what port is what.
your charcoal canister won't be doing its job of reducing gasoline odors in the garage if you don't tie it into the manifold to let it recharge with fresh air. It'll probably make a difference for a month or 2 but will fade off. An easy way to do it is just put a check valve on port "2" according to my list above, with the flow direction facing towards the manifold.
The minimum activation pressure of the check valve will make it so the fuel vapors from the tank go out through the carbon, rather than out into the intake manifold, but when started it will draw through the check valve to recharge the carbon. You'll need to check that this isn't making it run lean or anything like that, and maybe tune to adjust.
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VC120 has a fresh air inlet at the bottom. It's just loosely covered with a cap and sucks in from the engine bay.
ACD has a port, like the OEM. This way you can use the factory fitting that goes all the down into the frame rail
just get some new fuel line.
Tank and purge are one-way valves because you don't want to suck dirt and moisture into the gas tank.
When you smell fuel, that's overflow out of the inlet.
Toyota put that end down under the engine bay, in the frame rail.
ACD allows you to keep that.
Since installing a secondary fuel tank about a year ago, I have been getting a lot of pressure when taking the fuel cap off. Last weekend my hissing sound escalated to fuel surging out of the filler neck at a gas station.
Did the AC Delco canister install last night. Drove around for 30 miles, opened the cap, and didn't hear any hissing. So far so good.
One thing that had me stuck for a few minutes that did not seem to get addressed in this thread is that the bottom part of the bracket that holds the container makes contact with a section of the wire loom once a larger canister is installed.
I found a video that shows this easy trick (flipping the bracket 180 degrees) to avoid making contact with the wire loom, in case someone else runs into this issue:
Did the AC Delco canister install last night. Drove around for 30 miles, opened the cap, and didn't hear any hissing. So far so good.
One thing that had me stuck for a few minutes that did not seem to get addressed in this thread is that the bottom part of the bracket that holds the container makes contact with a section of the wire loom once a larger canister is installed.
I found a video that shows this easy trick (flipping the bracket 180 degrees) to avoid making contact with the wire loom, in case someone else runs into this issue:
I would toss the "splash cap" and run fuel hose to the oem air inlet tube (takes air from the frame rail). with how extreme the back flow can get in the 80, dumping raw fuel into a hot engine bay makes me feel uncomfortable.
I was forced into replacing the charcoal canister in my LX450 with the AC-Delco 215-153. I have been getting fuel tank pressure for a while now, and the OEM canister failed the tests in the FSM.
As others have said, it is a slightly larger diameter so a pair of 1/4-20x2.5" bolts w/hardware were a good fit. Again, as said the lower bracket has to be flipped and a length of 10mm tubing should be added from the canister's vent port to the OEM vent. Not the neatest routing, as it needs to cross the other 2 ports on top.
In hindsight I should have removed the EFI fuse for a while and allow the ECU to relearn. My idle once at normal operating temp was somewhat unstable and around 1100 which has never been the case. After my first drive, it came back down to a steady 650 where it always should be.
Let it be known that I REALLY hate having non-OEM parts under the hood, and if there was ANY other possibility than this plastic canister (@NLXTACY) I would have gone that route regardless of cost. But after the first long drive I stopped for a fill and there was no pressure in the tank. I certainly hope I get some life out of this.
I may even try fixing the OEM one.
As others have said, it is a slightly larger diameter so a pair of 1/4-20x2.5" bolts w/hardware were a good fit. Again, as said the lower bracket has to be flipped and a length of 10mm tubing should be added from the canister's vent port to the OEM vent. Not the neatest routing, as it needs to cross the other 2 ports on top.
In hindsight I should have removed the EFI fuse for a while and allow the ECU to relearn. My idle once at normal operating temp was somewhat unstable and around 1100 which has never been the case. After my first drive, it came back down to a steady 650 where it always should be.
Let it be known that I REALLY hate having non-OEM parts under the hood, and if there was ANY other possibility than this plastic canister (@NLXTACY) I would have gone that route regardless of cost. But after the first long drive I stopped for a fill and there was no pressure in the tank. I certainly hope I get some life out of this.
I may even try fixing the OEM one.
Just want to chime in and say the VC120 has been working just fine for me. A bit of a pain to get one of the clamps around it, but it worked out. No pressurized tank for the past two months!
Yea, I went with the Delco because it was closer to OEM design.
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This seems to be a better option, as it appears it doesn't come into contact with the wire loom. for the barb fitting what is the canister size? Did you just use a 1/4 barb and 1/4 npt and then glue it in?
Amazon product ASIN B07MTSSHB3
I only used the 1/4 barb and `glued` it in. I forget what I used, either silicone or some JB weld. There's probably a better way to do it.
Just a FYI to anyone who has gone down the route of replacing lines, charcoal canister, fuel caps, etc.
I spent month trying to figure out my issue. None worked so I ended up throwing a power steering cooler in-between the return to the fuel tank (Low pressure) and mounted it in front of the radiator on the driver side. 2 years later, no issue or leaks. Be sure to use the correct rated lines. This is what I used.
Derale 13200 Power Steering Cooler Kit, Black
I spent month trying to figure out my issue. None worked so I ended up throwing a power steering cooler in-between the return to the fuel tank (Low pressure) and mounted it in front of the radiator on the driver side. 2 years later, no issue or leaks. Be sure to use the correct rated lines. This is what I used.
Derale 13200 Power Steering Cooler Kit, Black
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Vary interesting!
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I went ahead and installed the VC413, it's a bit small for the space and I couldn't get the straps tight around the canister. I jury rigged it by adding 2 Pex water tubes on either side of the canister to get the straps nice and tight. I'm not really happy with the install but it seems to work just fine. I drove it for about 30 minutes and there was no pressure when taking off the gas cap. So I think overall it fixed the problem.
If I were to do it again I would go with the other canister mentioned here. I did replace the 3 lines as they were cracking as I pulled them off.
I ordered the AC Delco 215-153 (GM# 17113148) but the canister is stamped 17092110 MP. It looks like the pictures I e seen. Was I sent the wrong canister?
