- Thread starter
- #41
It’s unbelievable that they would have designed the pan with that tight of tolerance… it’s an oil pan for crying out loud… maybe they tried to make it double as a windage tray
Calc Sheet Measurements Needed by ARP for 1FZ Head and Main Stud Kits (1 Viewer)
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Yup, looks like they incorporated oil control into the pan. You’ll have to let us know the solution to using the ARP main studs if you go that route.
- Thread starter
- #44
Still going round on this. Machinist advises using bolts on the mains. He also says using non-stock bolts may require additional work on the bores. Frankly going non-stock on the main fasteners is starting to look like more trouble than it's worth.
The head studs, on the other hand, that's moving along. ARP is indeed considering an FZ set, and now have all the data they need. Whether that happens, and whether it's 12 long and 2 short or 14 short, remains to be seen. More soon I hope.
The head studs, on the other hand, that's moving along. ARP is indeed considering an FZ set, and now have all the data they need. Whether that happens, and whether it's 12 long and 2 short or 14 short, remains to be seen. More soon I hope.
Of course it does you have to have the mains re-line bored if you switch from bolts to studs. At the power level you are going for you have zero need for main studs.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #46
Ha, of-course to you; news-to-me. And that's exactly what he said.
Apparently the bolts are typically reusable; he'll measure. I do like to overbuild when practical; I don't need head studs either, but why not when they're both stronger and cheaper...
Ha, of-course to you; news-to-me. And that's exactly what he said.
I would say ARP head studs are a must, due to the head gasket, head warping, and head cracking issues the 1FZ has suffered from. Those that never allow the engine to run hot still have head gasket issues. Regardless, I believe the torque applied will be much higher using ARP studs, and more clamping force on an aluminum head engine is only a good thing. Not to mention the added strength of the studs, many of which exceed stock bolts by 20-50% in tensile strength depending on application.
If not building for boost, stock main bolts will be fine with seven mains. 2f or 3f I’d want ARPs for sure.
There’s no such thing as overbuilt. A work load that does not stress a component will last a lifetime. A component pushed continuously close to its working load limit or beyond is a stressed component, these components have short lifespans.
- Thread starter
- #48
Hmmm I’m planning to torque to head bolt spec, unless persuaded otherwise. I believe He-Who-Shall-Not-Be-Named torqued to spec, and he was S/C’d at the time. If that was good enough for him…I would say ARP head studs are a must, due to the head gasket, head warping, and head cracking issues the 1FZ has suffered from. Those that never allow the engine to run hot still have head gasket issues. Regardless, I believe the torque applied will be much higher using ARP studs, and more clamping force on an aluminum head engine is only a good thing. Not to mention the added strength of the studs, many of which exceed stock bolts by 20-50% in tensile strength depending on application.
If not building for boost, stock main bolts will be fine with seven mains. 2f or 3f I’d want ARPs for sure.
There’s no such thing as overbuilt. A work load that does not stress a component will last a lifetime. A component pushed continuously close to its working load limit or beyond is a stressed component, these components have short lifespans.
Yes torque to ARP specs with ARP lube, they know their fasteners better than anyone on a forum.
Well, a bolt / stud torque spec is dictated by it’s grade, and is designed to slightly stretch the bolt so it is acting as a spring pulling the head towards the block. When properly torqued, the correct stretch and clamping force is achieved. If the ARP studs are higher strength than the stock bolts, they may or will require more torque to be applied than Toyota specified, otherwise they won’t stretch and optimum clamping force will not be achieved. This is why the stretch on ARP rod bolts are measured after being torqued, to verify proper torque has been applied.
I would definitely follow ARP’s instructions if using their studs and stay away from Toyota spec. Also, I believe Toyota spec has a last step of 90 degrees, which would frighten me using on a bolt / stud not made for that exact procedure. Lastly, the spec may only be a few foot pounds more than stock, but with the ARP lube, a vastly higher clamping force will be applied.
I pray you have been persuaded
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
I agree, follow ARP advice on torque specifications.
Follow the FSM on tightening sequence.
By changing a critical component, you've created a frankenstein. Not all the rules apply now.
Follow the FSM on tightening sequence.
By changing a critical component, you've created a frankenstein. Not all the rules apply now.
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2004
- Threads
- 200
- Messages
- 12,468
- Location
- Boise - Idaho
- Website
- www.snlandcruisers.com
Since we use Opel or Supra arps there is no specified torque spec from them.
On the diesel arp kits (1HDx) there is very specific instructions.
Cheers
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
What do you torque them to?
I'd be inclined to follow ARPs instructions for that stud. It doesn't know if it's clamping a supra head or 1hd-t head.
ARP instructions, Step 8
"Follow manufacturers recommended torque sequence, torque to 100lbs, use ARP lubricant".
@jaymar probably prudent to ask ARP for their instructions/advice.
If they looking at bringing a kit to market, would guess instructions would be part if this.
- Thread starter
- #54
In fact, people have been using studs that are too short, and they don’t run them all the way in. I wonder if studs you CAN run all the way in will eliminate the need to check and re-torque later? No idea…
I would not believe the re-torque is due to lack of thread engagement, as that would mean the threads are “giving” or distorting after the first run / x amount of miles. If anything, I would attribute it to the head gasket slightly compressing, or the aluminum head distorting a tad after a few heat cycles.
With the additional clamping force of the ARPs, and hitting the mark with higher preload on first torque as shown on the torque graph, they should eliminate any need for re-torquing.
If ARP does not specify to open her up and check, then forget about it. However if it makes you feel better, won’t hurt anything.
