Builds Bushdoctor' LX 450 - 80's Build Progress - "Berky" (1 Viewer)
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- #22
Update: 9/29/2018
Sun roof
Still at work -- sealed all rivets with automotive silicon. I still need to perform the 'tube fix' on the SR glass seal. Got what I need so perhaps this weekend if I dont get derailed. I also will be sealing the holes in the roof after the roof rack removal. I've been debating about welding it all up but the concern is the heat might just melt the THIN roof top metal. I will probably just keep it simple and stick with the initial plan of plugging it. Got a couple of real life implementors of the 'just plug it' route that state its been a couple of years with no leaks to show. Just K.I.S.S it. Sure enough, I will give it a go too.
Headliner change
dye'ing the interior - messing around with flat black. Did a couple of coats. With the proper lighting I think I will dig this mod in my own sort of way. I'm actually liking the two tone transformation. More work to come. I hope at some point after the installation, I will send the pictures of the final change set up.
after several coats
Sun roof
Still at work -- sealed all rivets with automotive silicon. I still need to perform the 'tube fix' on the SR glass seal. Got what I need so perhaps this weekend if I dont get derailed. I also will be sealing the holes in the roof after the roof rack removal. I've been debating about welding it all up but the concern is the heat might just melt the THIN roof top metal. I will probably just keep it simple and stick with the initial plan of plugging it. Got a couple of real life implementors of the 'just plug it' route that state its been a couple of years with no leaks to show. Just K.I.S.S it. Sure enough, I will give it a go too.
Headliner change
dye'ing the interior - messing around with flat black. Did a couple of coats. With the proper lighting I think I will dig this mod in my own sort of way. I'm actually liking the two tone transformation. More work to come. I hope at some point after the installation, I will send the pictures of the final change set up.
after several coats
- Thread starter
- #23
Attic storage
Fab'd up a custom attic storage. Did the same on the 100 and felt it would be just as beneficial on the 80. I like how it turned out. Sourced the mesh online after reading a thread on mud
Aux Wiring
Started planning and executing my aux wire runs. The 100 is still my go to for extended tours and overlanding. That said, I wont be keen on adding a dual battery set up right away, BUT I may start prepping for it by relocating afew items under the hood.
With the headliner off, it's so much easier running cable. This is one of those things I'm taking my time, planning right for current and future reservations. I DON'T want to re-do this stuff again in the future and I want it as safe as can be. Electrical fire is a No no.
I opted to have the run from the bay battery as short as possible so I planned for the distro block to be stored under the center console (for interior needs). There will be another block located under the hood. Once I removed the stock CD changer, there was plenty of room in there. It's where I will be storing my Ham radio main, less the removable face.
Found a good as new Ham and gentex rear mirror on ebay which I will be installing.
Fab'd up a custom attic storage. Did the same on the 100 and felt it would be just as beneficial on the 80. I like how it turned out. Sourced the mesh online after reading a thread on mud
Aux Wiring
Started planning and executing my aux wire runs. The 100 is still my go to for extended tours and overlanding. That said, I wont be keen on adding a dual battery set up right away, BUT I may start prepping for it by relocating afew items under the hood.
With the headliner off, it's so much easier running cable. This is one of those things I'm taking my time, planning right for current and future reservations. I DON'T want to re-do this stuff again in the future and I want it as safe as can be. Electrical fire is a No no.
I opted to have the run from the bay battery as short as possible so I planned for the distro block to be stored under the center console (for interior needs). There will be another block located under the hood. Once I removed the stock CD changer, there was plenty of room in there. It's where I will be storing my Ham radio main, less the removable face.
Found a good as new Ham and gentex rear mirror on ebay which I will be installing.
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- Thread starter
- #24
10/5/2018
Tough dog lift install
Truck was running the original shocks and springs. This upgrade presented a night and day experience.Thetransformation was definitely the most enjoyable to this point. I feel like the rig just went to another level. I Will need to drive around and let everything settle.Measured everything up, pre and post and after further consultation with @landtank .. The alignment numbers suggest a need for 4" caster plates to restore stock'ish drive. Next on order are 4" caster correction plates and a couple of extended brake line and not to mention a rebuild kit for the front. My bearings are sh*t.
Switched from 31's to 35's. Big jump but honestly, the rig still feels peppy. I need to run some more test up a steep hill. For the most part, I honestly feel the urgent need to regear is not a major requirement. I can live with this for some time.
My BORA 1.5 spacers also made it in the mail this morning just in time for my lift installation. I definitely think they were worth it.
Stock 31 to 35s .. Thanks to @perrobravo for making this possible by donating these. The tires are mudstar. Never heard of them until this point but 35 mud terrain mudstars beats 10 year old weathered stock BFGs
The installation itself went pretty smooth. Un-bolted a couple of pieces to drop the axle. used this opportunity to check out what else needed to be changed out. lots of stock parts that had done their time.
Installed the BORA 1.5 inch spacers
@Desert Dino - it's true 80 series spacers cant be hub-centric. At least from what Lenny explained and also what I see - pics below. The way the hub is built, it doesnt allow for a hub centric spacer.
Tough dog lift install
Truck was running the original shocks and springs. This upgrade presented a night and day experience.Thetransformation was definitely the most enjoyable to this point. I feel like the rig just went to another level. I Will need to drive around and let everything settle.Measured everything up, pre and post and after further consultation with @landtank .. The alignment numbers suggest a need for 4" caster plates to restore stock'ish drive. Next on order are 4" caster correction plates and a couple of extended brake line and not to mention a rebuild kit for the front. My bearings are sh*t.
Switched from 31's to 35's. Big jump but honestly, the rig still feels peppy. I need to run some more test up a steep hill. For the most part, I honestly feel the urgent need to regear is not a major requirement. I can live with this for some time.
My BORA 1.5 spacers also made it in the mail this morning just in time for my lift installation. I definitely think they were worth it.
Stock 31 to 35s .. Thanks to @perrobravo for making this possible by donating these. The tires are mudstar. Never heard of them until this point but 35 mud terrain mudstars beats 10 year old weathered stock BFGs
The installation itself went pretty smooth. Un-bolted a couple of pieces to drop the axle. used this opportunity to check out what else needed to be changed out. lots of stock parts that had done their time.
Installed the BORA 1.5 inch spacers
@Desert Dino - it's true 80 series spacers cant be hub-centric. At least from what Lenny explained and also what I see - pics below. The way the hub is built, it doesnt allow for a hub centric spacer.
- Thread starter
- #25
Finally, got an alignment; Running a negative caster that will require some correction
Like mentioned above, the jump from 31 - 35 is big but there's still some peppy'ness. I will have to test how much lag if any, exists in steeper conditions. I was also basically still fully stripped in the inside of the rig.
Like mentioned above, the jump from 31 - 35 is big but there's still some peppy'ness. I will have to test how much lag if any, exists in steeper conditions. I was also basically still fully stripped in the inside of the rig.
@bushdoctor how is the fit of the 35 tires on the OEM wheels ? I was told it is too narrow?
Looks great! Tracing water leaks is a colossal pain
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- #28
Never ran 35s before. But from the looks of it, fits fine. I have seen several members use oem on 35s. I am currently running landcruiser rims and not the LX450s. Doubt there'd be much difference
Also for what it is worth, this sunroof leaks period. But that is ok because it is in a huge pan with drain tubes. I know because after repairing/replacing all of my tubes I tested it. With the sunroof open. And that pan and tubes can handle a steady pitcher of water!! No doubt ANY rain a storm can throw at it. So IMO, I’d focus more on PM for sunroof and making sure those tubes are clear. No need to weld it shut if you don’t want to.
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- #31
Also for what it is worth, this sunroof leaks period. But that is ok because it is in a huge pan with drain tubes. I know because after repairing/replacing all of my tubes I tested it. With the sunroof open. And that pan and tubes can handle a steady pitcher of water!! No doubt ANY rain a storm can throw at it. So IMO, I’d focus more on PM for sunroof and making sure those tubes are clear. No need to weld it shut if you don’t want to.
Thanks for the info..I might as well pull out the whole hose/tube (while I still have the headliner out) and inspect it..That was some serious kink you unearthed..
No prob. I even bought new glass that had a new gasket and after installing that and PM’ing everything and adjusting shims it still leaks! But just a little and it drained perfectly out the drain tubes.
Also check this thread. Interior bone dry. Can’t wait to see it and take it for a shake down run!
Sunroof leak fixed!.... I think
Also check this thread. Interior bone dry. Can’t wait to see it and take it for a shake down run!
Sunroof leak fixed!.... I think
Just want to echo the drain tube suggestion. My LX450 had wet floors after every rain, and I was concerned I was going to need to do the sunroof job you've done. Instead I got access to the drain tube via the driver's side footwell and found a massive kink in the line. I actually ended up cutting off a couple of inches of the end of the tube to give it more room to straighten out. It felt a little sketchy but the sunroof drains great now and no more damp floors at all.
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- #34
So much to do, not a whole lot of time.
After a spending a couple of days in Utah with friends, I'm back at it. Did some more clean up on the interior, sound proofing and mocking up my 12V runs. Drove the 80 around to allow the suspension to settle some more. I plan on installing the plates some time within the next 2 weeks.
Tapped into the sun-roof for the gentex rear mirror install. And ran some tests. Waiting on @NLXTACY updates on the bracket integration to allow for the scan-guage 2 mounting
5/16 6061 Aluminium cut-out for the tailgate. Working on the fasteners
Cleaned some minor grime that was on the plastic
After a spending a couple of days in Utah with friends, I'm back at it. Did some more clean up on the interior, sound proofing and mocking up my 12V runs. Drove the 80 around to allow the suspension to settle some more. I plan on installing the plates some time within the next 2 weeks.
Tapped into the sun-roof for the gentex rear mirror install. And ran some tests. Waiting on @NLXTACY updates on the bracket integration to allow for the scan-guage 2 mounting
5/16 6061 Aluminium cut-out for the tailgate. Working on the fasteners
Cleaned some minor grime that was on the plastic
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- Thread starter
- #35
Some goodies from last week awaiting work to be done.
knuckle rebuild slated for the future. There's currently quite some play on the front end and the grease is all caked up.
@landtank 4" lift plates .. will be doing the front control arm bushings at the same time. I really need to make time for this one SOON.
Bushing part #s
@LandCruiserPhil - battery bracket and rear heater by-pass hose. Need to clean the evaporator at some point too and freshen up the AC interior.
Switched out the ventilation hoses - The ones in there were hard and cracked., longer brake lines to cater for the lift.
knuckle rebuild slated for the future. There's currently quite some play on the front end and the grease is all caked up.
@landtank 4" lift plates .. will be doing the front control arm bushings at the same time. I really need to make time for this one SOON.
Bushing part #s
@LandCruiserPhil - battery bracket and rear heater by-pass hose. Need to clean the evaporator at some point too and freshen up the AC interior.
Switched out the ventilation hoses - The ones in there were hard and cracked., longer brake lines to cater for the lift.
You have a couple hours of dirty hands to look forward to.
Thanks for your purchase
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- #37
Got to install the @sleeoffroad headlight upgrade unless. Very happy with the light output improvement. Would highly recommend. Previously had to drive on high beams to see the road better. Also, researching other bulb options (HIR) for even more improvement. So I'm open to suggestions.
Installation took about an hour as I ran other wires for the rear view mirror temp gauge to the optimal location for exterior temp sensing. Since I had the front hood fender out, figured it was best to run that too at the same time. Everything tucked in underneath where the old headlight wires ran. Zip tied it all together and covered it.
Changed out the hose clamps on the ventilation hoses too and changed out the oil cap. Glad to not see anymore annoying leaks on the block.
Also, installed LCP's battery bracket. I like it, but I need to slightly mod it for the battery I'm running. Currently the hold down lip barely makes proper contact with the battery that I'm running. If it was a little wider, it would be perfect. I plan on welding up something to extend it some. My fuse-able link if very happy nonetheless. No more stress on them.
Editing this post...welded more metal on the bracket to increase the surface area on the hold down. Painted and installed
@LandCruiserPhil - for what it's worth, maybe this would be ideal for those with batteries like mine.
Installation took about an hour as I ran other wires for the rear view mirror temp gauge to the optimal location for exterior temp sensing. Since I had the front hood fender out, figured it was best to run that too at the same time. Everything tucked in underneath where the old headlight wires ran. Zip tied it all together and covered it.
Changed out the hose clamps on the ventilation hoses too and changed out the oil cap. Glad to not see anymore annoying leaks on the block.
Also, installed LCP's battery bracket. I like it, but I need to slightly mod it for the battery I'm running. Currently the hold down lip barely makes proper contact with the battery that I'm running. If it was a little wider, it would be perfect. I plan on welding up something to extend it some. My fuse-able link if very happy nonetheless. No more stress on them.
Editing this post...welded more metal on the bracket to increase the surface area on the hold down. Painted and installed
@LandCruiserPhil - for what it's worth, maybe this would be ideal for those with batteries like mine.
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- Thread starter
- #38
The cabin temp sensor got a cleaning too with some compressed air. It was gunked up. Drove the rig with and without it. Big difference.
"Tuna can" got a cleaning some time back. Very nasty. Didn't find anything out of the ordinary though.
BEFORE
AFTER
"Tuna can" got a cleaning some time back. Very nasty. Didn't find anything out of the ordinary though.
BEFORE
AFTER
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- #39
I need to replace these hoses. They have definitely over-lived their lives.
@NLXTACY, I need the 5/8 straight hose to replace all under the T fitting (first rectangle)
The hose from the valve output to the firewall - I got the LCP single hose. So that's been addressed.
@NLXTACY, I need the 5/8 straight hose to replace all under the T fitting (first rectangle)
The hose from the valve output to the firewall - I got the LCP single hose. So that's been addressed.
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Those hoses are PIA, maybe get a new heater valve too? Everyone knows and says those can look good but when you pull off hoses it can just disolve in your hands. Would be a good time to check your rear heater line condition as well and delete rear heater if bad?
