- Thread starter
- #41
Yeah. Got a new valve. Was thinking on the same lines when I picked one up. will just snip the hoses and replace the entire unit - valve and hoses.
Builds Bushdoctor' LX 450 - 80's Build Progress - "Berky"
- Thread starter bushdoctor
- Start date
-
- Tags
- build thread fzj80
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Yeah. Got a new valve. Was thinking on the same lines when I picked one up. will just snip the hoses and replace the entire unit - valve and hoses.
- Thread starter
- #42
One of those things I had to give multiple thoughts about. But I finally gave up the cig lighter for a higher output outlet. I don't recall ever using the cig lighter for the cig aspect and for the power aspect it's mainly for lower output devices. Decided on lower AWG wire and made it always on for use even when ignition is off. Inverter, pumps, should be able to run on it now. Kept the cig unit if by ANY slight chance I'd want to revert back to the old school look when smoking in cars was considered cool. Or wasn't it?
- Thread starter
- #44
we run 315s on 80 series OEM wheels on three trucks - works fine
I'm a big fan too.
- Thread starter
- #45
Finished one of those mods that when you get done, first thing you want to sip is a very cold brew and smile. Finally said bye bye to the carpet, and fitted the aluminium tailgate. Been a work in progress, measured a thousand times and finally drilled the holes, countersunk them and used some flat allen heads fasteners. Rounded the edges and started polishing the minor scratches. Plan is to get it all smooth and let the natural oxidation do it's thing. Very happy with the final outcome and looking forward to many outings and actions on the stainproof tail-gate
Used the old carpet to plot some reference point after the measurements.
Used the old carpet to plot some reference point after the measurements.
- Thread starter
- #46
Switched my 9006 Low beams to HIR1 9011's. I must say, a slee harness and these bulbs is an easy, inexpensive upgrade from the stock lighting which was dull and almost worthless - especially at low beams. Still running 9005 bulbs on the high beams but I will be changing those. Basically, I used 9011 (which are meant to replace 9005 bulbs) on the 9006. Let there be light!!!!!!!!!!!!......I can see the road now. Without blinding oncoming traffic.
Pardon me for not taking loads of before pics but trust me, this is a HUGE uptick on the lighting. I definitely recommend.
In the process, I also added a 100 AMP breaker as close as possible to the battery. I'm adding a bunch of Aux wiring/devices in the inside distro block and this has been nice to have when I need to add stuff on the fly. Shut 'em down and do my work. Safety.
While on lighting, I ordered cluster instrument LED replacements and I hope to tackle that by next week. Looking forward to it.
Pardon me for not taking loads of before pics but trust me, this is a HUGE uptick on the lighting. I definitely recommend.
In the process, I also added a 100 AMP breaker as close as possible to the battery. I'm adding a bunch of Aux wiring/devices in the inside distro block and this has been nice to have when I need to add stuff on the fly. Shut 'em down and do my work. Safety.
While on lighting, I ordered cluster instrument LED replacements and I hope to tackle that by next week. Looking forward to it.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #47
For this week, it was thanksgiving festivities but soon as that wrapped up, I decided to embark on some light upgrades
I will start by stating the fact that there are fantastic threads here on MUD on this topic and I gained loads of knowledge from those contributions.
I planned to do this in phases.
Phase 1 - cluster instruments, key ring, floor indicator, door and dome lights.
Phase 2 - Heater controls.
Phase 3 - all other lighting I deem necessary - interior and exterior.
Phase 2 and 3 will require a bunch of soldering.
Sourced all my bulbs from superbright LED and required no alteration. Here's the menu - (the bolt beams, I plan on adding some courtesy llight on the rig. Didn't get to that yet)
Previously, I'd also ordered some dome/door lights from @pfran42 to supplement the superbright LED bulbs, and finally got them going. I used pfran bulbs on the doors and map light upfront. Big change in dome lighting. Love it. Am yet to do the center and rear dome light replacements.
The bulbs were all SMD and dimmable.
I decided to mix it up with the colors lighting-wise. So far, I enjoying the change. Makes me just want to run errands with the 80. I'll see how this goes and if I decide to change it up I will.
Changing these bulbs felt SO MUCH MUCH easier to do compared to when I did the bulbs on the 100. Removing the panels and cables on the 80 wasn't bad at all. Bulbs are polar sensitive so, if they didn't come on at first try, I just switched them up.
The Breakdown
CLUSTER
(x) - number of bulbs bought
#* - bulb style
(4) - #194 - cluster main - BLUE
(1) - #194 - Gas empty - SUPER WHITE
(2) - #194 - Turn signals - SUPER WHITE
I didnt change the bottom indicator bulbs to #74. I figured I use them on random selected occasions as opposed to every time I drive the car. They illuminate great for now, but I will change them down the line when it falls on the next budget.
Final cluster lighting - Am also on high beams with 9011 bulbs and slee harness.
The picture shows some blurr but in reality there's none. Also as stated before the bulbs are dimmable. They are CRISP
It was great to finally see the D light come on. It doesn't brighten up like on the others on the shift indicator.
SHIFT INDICATOR
(1) - Type B - Neowedge Item # Single Led Type B BLUE
(9) - Type B - Neowedge Item # Single Led Type B SUPER WHITE
KEY RING
(1) - #74 - Key ring - BLUE
FLOOR SHIFT INDICATOR
(1) - #74 - floor shift indicator
My floor shift indicator never worked. Great to see in 'alive' finally
@pfran42 map light - and you can see the blue on the key ring and floor shift indicator
I will start by stating the fact that there are fantastic threads here on MUD on this topic and I gained loads of knowledge from those contributions.
I planned to do this in phases.
Phase 1 - cluster instruments, key ring, floor indicator, door and dome lights.
Phase 2 - Heater controls.
Phase 3 - all other lighting I deem necessary - interior and exterior.
Phase 2 and 3 will require a bunch of soldering.
Sourced all my bulbs from superbright LED and required no alteration. Here's the menu - (the bolt beams, I plan on adding some courtesy llight on the rig. Didn't get to that yet)
Previously, I'd also ordered some dome/door lights from @pfran42 to supplement the superbright LED bulbs, and finally got them going. I used pfran bulbs on the doors and map light upfront. Big change in dome lighting. Love it. Am yet to do the center and rear dome light replacements.
The bulbs were all SMD and dimmable.
I decided to mix it up with the colors lighting-wise. So far, I enjoying the change. Makes me just want to run errands with the 80. I'll see how this goes and if I decide to change it up I will.
Changing these bulbs felt SO MUCH MUCH easier to do compared to when I did the bulbs on the 100. Removing the panels and cables on the 80 wasn't bad at all. Bulbs are polar sensitive so, if they didn't come on at first try, I just switched them up.
The Breakdown
CLUSTER
(x) - number of bulbs bought
#* - bulb style
(4) - #194 - cluster main - BLUE
(1) - #194 - Gas empty - SUPER WHITE
(2) - #194 - Turn signals - SUPER WHITE
I didnt change the bottom indicator bulbs to #74. I figured I use them on random selected occasions as opposed to every time I drive the car. They illuminate great for now, but I will change them down the line when it falls on the next budget.
Final cluster lighting - Am also on high beams with 9011 bulbs and slee harness.
The picture shows some blurr but in reality there's none. Also as stated before the bulbs are dimmable. They are CRISP
It was great to finally see the D light come on. It doesn't brighten up like on the others on the shift indicator.
SHIFT INDICATOR
(1) - Type B - Neowedge Item # Single Led Type B BLUE
(9) - Type B - Neowedge Item # Single Led Type B SUPER WHITE
KEY RING
(1) - #74 - Key ring - BLUE
FLOOR SHIFT INDICATOR
(1) - #74 - floor shift indicator
My floor shift indicator never worked. Great to see in 'alive' finally
@pfran42 map light - and you can see the blue on the key ring and floor shift indicator
- Thread starter
- #48
While in the process, took care of some rust (I believe all the moisture in the rig from the leaking sun roof caused this. Anyway, cleaned it up and painted it.
Also look the time to clean all the plastic. The instrument cover had alot of oxidation build up. Cleaned it up with Meguiars plastic X for a crystal clear look. Amazing how much viewing the panel is.
Rust removal
Unfortunately I can't upload more pics
Panel plastic cover loaded with oxidation
All oxidation removed
Also look the time to clean all the plastic. The instrument cover had alot of oxidation build up. Cleaned it up with Meguiars plastic X for a crystal clear look. Amazing how much viewing the panel is.
Rust removal
Unfortunately I can't upload more pics
Panel plastic cover loaded with oxidation
All oxidation removed
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #49
I also added a light bar in the mix.Currently, I do not have a front bumper (I wish I did, Been drooling for the 4x4 Labs high clearance one), so I just mounted it on the factory bumper. Works great.Will definitely use it when I make the maiden off-road trip in December.
I have cover plates that I can use on it to make modular and use as some form of daytime running lights (for now)
With a combination of the covers. Got different cover plates
I have cover plates that I can use on it to make modular and use as some form of daytime running lights (for now)
With a combination of the covers. Got different cover plates
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #50
This week I've been focused on more aux wiring and.....
FINALLY, made some time to install the Landtank 4" plates.
After doing my Tough Dog suspension upgrade, I ended up with a negative caster that required correction to bring it back to, or close to factory specs, which I believe fall between 2 to 4 degrees range.
After the installation, I'm at the lower end of that spectrum - 2. And I will admit, these plates have brought back drivability on the 80. I'm a big believer. Thanks @landtank and @NLXTACY
The process itself, with the right instructions is semi complex. Don't rush it, take your time and ensure you have the right tools for the job. For more peace of mind, the way the plates are built, they can only go in one way, so somewhat dummy proof as far as fitment is concerned.
In my case, my buddy has a shop and I had the privilege of working on all this on his lift, given some down time at his shop.With the tools I had and some of his, I used the instruction provided by Joey. Read the instructions multiple time, pinged Rick and Joey with any questions - THANKS to those guys for their quick responses.
At some point, I substituted the bit increments step with a "hole-saw" like bit with a pointer to go into the pilot hole (pictured below). This tremendously reduced my work time on the harder side (the passenger side drilling that is). I'd started with the driver side - which would be the easier of the two sides given the amount of space available to run a right angled drill. If you can source this bit, you will save yourself a tonne of time. That said, working up in bit increments worked well for my driver side. And everything lined up perfectly with NO play. Bolts went in straight.
Numbers BEFORE plate installation
Number AFTER plate installation - the feel is NIGHT and DAY. And there's still room for improvement as the springs settle.
Drill and bits (both options)
Then moved to this bit for the passenger side. Needed only the 1/8 hole and then this.
Bit was long enough to drill both plates while in the outer positions on the brackets. Clamped once and went to work on drilling both holes. 4 drills total - 1/8 drill and final 5/8s drill.
FINALLY, made some time to install the Landtank 4" plates.
After doing my Tough Dog suspension upgrade, I ended up with a negative caster that required correction to bring it back to, or close to factory specs, which I believe fall between 2 to 4 degrees range.
After the installation, I'm at the lower end of that spectrum - 2. And I will admit, these plates have brought back drivability on the 80. I'm a big believer. Thanks @landtank and @NLXTACY
The process itself, with the right instructions is semi complex. Don't rush it, take your time and ensure you have the right tools for the job. For more peace of mind, the way the plates are built, they can only go in one way, so somewhat dummy proof as far as fitment is concerned.
In my case, my buddy has a shop and I had the privilege of working on all this on his lift, given some down time at his shop.With the tools I had and some of his, I used the instruction provided by Joey. Read the instructions multiple time, pinged Rick and Joey with any questions - THANKS to those guys for their quick responses.
At some point, I substituted the bit increments step with a "hole-saw" like bit with a pointer to go into the pilot hole (pictured below). This tremendously reduced my work time on the harder side (the passenger side drilling that is). I'd started with the driver side - which would be the easier of the two sides given the amount of space available to run a right angled drill. If you can source this bit, you will save yourself a tonne of time. That said, working up in bit increments worked well for my driver side. And everything lined up perfectly with NO play. Bolts went in straight.
Numbers BEFORE plate installation
Number AFTER plate installation - the feel is NIGHT and DAY. And there's still room for improvement as the springs settle.
Drill and bits (both options)
Then moved to this bit for the passenger side. Needed only the 1/8 hole and then this.
Bit was long enough to drill both plates while in the outer positions on the brackets. Clamped once and went to work on drilling both holes. 4 drills total - 1/8 drill and final 5/8s drill.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #51
Pics of the installation
This is for the drivers side when I was using the bit increments
Dummy proof
Point to consider -- tuck weld before drilling the final hole so the plate doesnt shift at all.
Finally, painted - did more than tuck weld. Probably not necessary but I know this aint moving anytime soon
While in there, I also prepped some weathered surfaces and painted them with a primer + paint combo spray. The bottom side looks newer now - at least until I get out and wheel this bad boy.
I also, decided to replace the bushings. Previous owner didn't wheel this vehicle at all. The one's in there were ok'ish but rather do it now than later.
FYI -- I marked the position of the holes in the bushings and made sure the replacement bushings went in in the same orientation. Read somewhere that this hole positions do matter.
Front lower control Arm Frame Bushing - Part 48061-60010
Front lower Control Arm Axle Bushing - Part 48702-60050
This is for the drivers side when I was using the bit increments
Dummy proof
Point to consider -- tuck weld before drilling the final hole so the plate doesnt shift at all.
Finally, painted - did more than tuck weld. Probably not necessary but I know this aint moving anytime soon
While in there, I also prepped some weathered surfaces and painted them with a primer + paint combo spray. The bottom side looks newer now - at least until I get out and wheel this bad boy.
I also, decided to replace the bushings. Previous owner didn't wheel this vehicle at all. The one's in there were ok'ish but rather do it now than later.
FYI -- I marked the position of the holes in the bushings and made sure the replacement bushings went in in the same orientation. Read somewhere that this hole positions do matter.
Front lower control Arm Frame Bushing - Part 48061-60010
Front lower Control Arm Axle Bushing - Part 48702-60050
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #52
Lastly, installed extended brake lines (Menu as follows) and pressure flushed the brake lines to ensure all the OLD brake fluid was gone. Went with high temp synthetic dot 3 fluid.
Part 90947-A2016 for the Right (Passenger) Front - 2 1/8'' gain from stock.
Part 96940-34605 for the Left (Driver) Front - 4 3/8" gain from stock
Part 96940-34705 for the rear - 5" gain from stock.
For proper brake flushing - Pressure flush machine with Dot 3 high temp synthetic brake fluid.
Part 90947-A2016 for the Right (Passenger) Front - 2 1/8'' gain from stock.
Part 96940-34605 for the Left (Driver) Front - 4 3/8" gain from stock
Part 96940-34705 for the rear - 5" gain from stock.
For proper brake flushing - Pressure flush machine with Dot 3 high temp synthetic brake fluid.
What is the measurement from the center of the hub to the bottom of your fender flares? I also bought a 4" landtank caster correction kit, but wont have time to install for a while. Just kinda curious what ballpark I might end up in as I don't actually have a 4" lift. Please and thank you!
PS, lots of cool stuff in this thread.
PS, lots of cool stuff in this thread.
- Thread starter
- #54
What is the measurement from the center of the hub to the bottom of your fender flares? I also bought a 4" landtank caster correction kit, but wont have time to install for a while. Just kinda curious what ballpark I might end up in as I don't actually have a 4" lift. Please and thank you!
PS, lots of cool stuff in this thread.
These were my final fender lip to hub measurement numbers. I didn't do a 2.5 plate. Went for the next big one. As a rule, positive caster (more), to a certain point off-course is always better than negative (less) caster.
My final numbers - I'm expecting the springs to settle some more but not a whole lot. I also, dont have anything loaded in the rig besides the drivers seat. So added weight to be considered.
Thanks! Mine are around 23" hub to flare, so I should end up pretty close to you. Glad I went with the 4" plates 
- Thread starter
- #56
Phase 2 of LED upgrade completed. The interior feels like a new rig. Happy with the new look. Phase 3 will address all other remaining bulbs I deem necessary - exterior and interior e.g. turn signals, brake lights etc
Heater main
(3) Type B - BLUE
Lights are more blue than the picture actually shows. Waaay better than stock. Held off on soldering the tiny bulbs that come on when the buttons are pressed. Will deal with that another time in the future
Hazard
(1) Type B - RED
Never worked before. Red it is.
Center Diff
(1) Type B - white
Defrost
(1)Type B - SUPER WHITE
(1)Type B - RED
Glove Box
(1) #74 - SUPER WHITE
Never worked before. Good to see it brighten up
Ash Tray
(1) # 74 - # SUPER WHITE
Never worked before. Good to see it brighten up
Heater main
(3) Type B - BLUE
Lights are more blue than the picture actually shows. Waaay better than stock. Held off on soldering the tiny bulbs that come on when the buttons are pressed. Will deal with that another time in the future
Hazard
(1) Type B - RED
Never worked before. Red it is.
Center Diff
(1) Type B - white
Defrost
(1)Type B - SUPER WHITE
(1)Type B - RED
Glove Box
(1) #74 - SUPER WHITE
Never worked before. Good to see it brighten up
Ash Tray
(1) # 74 - # SUPER WHITE
Never worked before. Good to see it brighten up
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #57
Did find a good spot for the Ham radio speaker.
- Thread starter
- #58
I dubbed this week "The week in "hell" - Did the Pesky heater hose, rear heater by-pass and the knuckle rebuild which called for new front brakes. Don't know how I convinced myself to tackle them all in a weeks span.I guess I really want to take this rig out to the bush and partake in some adventure. I did my duty in extensively researching all job tasks and that did pay off on some steps.
PESKY HOSE and REAR HEATER BY-PASS ( Dec. 13. 2018)
The rear heater by pass was straight forward. Eliminated a bunch of tees, Changed up a bunch of hoses and the heater valve. While at it, flushed out the heater core and flushed out the radiator with some solvent-based fluid (drove around for a couple of days with this in it). The coolant was so bad. It was like a red/green mixture. Hoses were original and what better time to get this done. Now, AC blows hot. I will tackle the evaporator cleaning some time next week with some frigi-clean
Went with Toyota red - concentrate mixed with distilled water.
These Tees got eliminated
The original pesky
PESKY HOSE and REAR HEATER BY-PASS ( Dec. 13. 2018)
The rear heater by pass was straight forward. Eliminated a bunch of tees, Changed up a bunch of hoses and the heater valve. While at it, flushed out the heater core and flushed out the radiator with some solvent-based fluid (drove around for a couple of days with this in it). The coolant was so bad. It was like a red/green mixture. Hoses were original and what better time to get this done. Now, AC blows hot. I will tackle the evaporator cleaning some time next week with some frigi-clean
Went with Toyota red - concentrate mixed with distilled water.
These Tees got eliminated
The original pesky
- Thread starter
- #59
Replacements items
old NASTY coolant
Old vs New heater valve
Some good silicone for longetivity
Made my own "tool" combo that made this task simpler than I though it would be. Used this to tighten the new constant torque clamps
old NASTY coolant
Old vs New heater valve
Some good silicone for longetivity
Made my own "tool" combo that made this task simpler than I though it would be. Used this to tighten the new constant torque clamps
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #60
Rear by-pass completed
