Builds Bushdoctor' LX 450 - 80's Build Progress - "Berky" (1 Viewer)

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Very evident that the seal was hardened and flattend. Long overdue for a replacement. Had to drill out 4/7 screws, cleaned the cover, buffed the residue on the lips. I couldn't find torx screws so went with Mr. Toyota screws on this unfortunately.

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As for the crank seal, it was hardened too and leaky. Noticed the replacement had some sort of lip on it. Perhaps an upgraded version to keep dust off? Carefully pulled it out with my seal puller and sat in the new one with the 2" coupler from home depot. Worked perfectly.

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Next up, did the thermostat rated for 82 degrees Centigrade....used a new seal on for it. Looks like someone used some type of liquid gasket on it and also snipped the bleeder.

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Idler pulley replaced

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Everything buttoned up. Got to say, I really love the sound of the new blue fan clutch. Does sound like a jet when it comes on. The new belts also fit perfectly. Previously, the AC belt was slipping and was still loose even after adjusting it all the way. It was also skinnier. This new belt fit perfectly - width and tension-wise.

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THE TEST

So far - MAGNIFICENT. Happy with the results. Much quiter and cooler and no more leaks. This was one of those maintenance tasks with an immediate effect on level of reward. The highest the water temps have gone is 184F. On the same hills, I used to do close to 200F. Can't wait to do some longer hill runs and test it even further.
 
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Another double cup-holder added to compliment the front ones. This was a custom piece request I'd made to @bhicks and he handled it so well. THANK YOU. Fits like a glove on the outlet I had already installed. Test fit below, will be adding screws in addition to the solid tape backing.

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Another double cup-holder added to compliment the front ones. This was a custom piece request I'd made to @bhicks and he handled it so well. THANK YOU. Fits like a glove on the outlet I had already installed. Test fit below, will be adding screws in addition to the solid tape backing.

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Almost looks like we meant for it to fit that perfectly. Looks great!!
 
Added some bling for the H/L knob. LOVE IT. Got a chance to test it out on the trail this weekend. Looks great, feels great and works great. Went out to the desert for a much needed break with the usual suspects @perrobravo and @Dan2722 . Didn't take too many good pics.

I NEED A SOLUTION FOR MY SPARE TIRE @SUMMIT CRUISERS Jr .... :bang:It's getting old getting that piece in and out every night.

In other news, happy to report that my high temps have been resolved. Put the rig through the paces, some long hills that previously caused havoc, with AC ON, and the highest temp observed was 184 F. No more over-heating paranoia. On average I'm showing ~ 180 F. Flactuating between 178 and 181 F


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Some pics in the wild.

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PCV valve and grommet. Not a whole lot of drama on this one. Some heat, vise grips and muscle. Looks a bit gunky in there and I would like to do some research on oil catch cans, so haven't put on the new one just yet.

Part numbers

Grommet - Toyota (90480-18001) - $4.15
PCV Valve - Toyota (12204-35040) - $5.72

New vs old

Had 3 pieces total. Top side and the bottom side which I had to snip into 2 bits then pulled it out with a needle nose pliers.real slow.
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Gunky. I suppose the only way to thoroughly clean this would be to take the valve cover out completely. I'm also considering a oil catch can

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Performed a mod on the corner marker lights. Feels more modern. White day time runnings lights (DRLs) and turns to amber blinkers when I turn signal

Special thanks to @pandathrust and @Dissent for the great idea

How it all worked out in the end (video)



Steps

1. Source a full set of rear tail lights harness (donor harness - DH). You will only need the black socket piece pig tail with the 3 wires. Picked up some salvaged ones for afew dollars.

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2. Strip the harnesss

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3. Remove side/corner marker light and cut off the bulb wire. This will hook up to the donor harness (DH).

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Matching the DH wires to the existing factory
(I soldered mine for a solid connection)

DH-Red/green - connects to Green
DH-White/black - connects to white/black

DH-Green white - will be connecting to the green wire on the original blinkers. I had some extra posi-taps from a previous project and used those to tap this line. Used them with great success in the past but you could always solder them if your prefer that route.

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Green wire will connect to this

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Harness' all built up (left and right sides)

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with the switchback bulbs

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Also got to cleanup the lenses and the light housings.Used some dielectric spray stuff on the sockets to give them some protection against the elements.

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Top (after) - first clean), bottom is before with some build up

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LS400 visors added.

Given that I changed the rear view mirror and went with the gentex 177, I opted to change my factory visors with the LS400 version to accomodate the extra length of the adapted rear view mirror. My visors were also kind of weathered, and seems like at some point, factory ones also start sagging. Eventually I believe mine might have also gone through the same depreciation..

Fit is terrific but to make it even better I did a couple of mods on the repurposed LS400 visors.

1. Picked up some used ones on ebay for $40 (For both left and right). I'd been searching for them for a while and held back given that price on them were so high (IMHO). Anyway, I landed some gray ones at this price, and since I've changed the color on my liner, I was just going to change them to black using some fabric spray.

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2. I ended up using my factory mounts on them since I wanted them to moved all the way to the side door glass

Did some searching and came accross this thread, and that where I got the idea from. There's a lot of great information on the thread below.


Removing the mounts was a bit of a pain, but they do come out. Then to adapt them to the LS400 visors, a little drilling to expand the opening was required. This needs to be done with a lot of care. If you drill too much, you risk breaking it. I broke my first one, but luckily @Dan2722 had an extra one for me following his own visor mod. Cheers DP.

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3.
Test out the wiring - determined which side was +ve and -ve. If going LED this becomes more critical but for the factory bulbs, doesn't matter much,

White with black stripe is negative, blue with yellow stripe is your positive.

I used the old connectors from the factory visors to mate the new visors.



Marked the positive side. Thats the original connector

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Final outcome with visors painted to match the liner.

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Having the original mounts inplace of the LS400 mounts allows for this movements without stress.

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without these, factory visors would have been making contact with the rear view mirror

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Solid placement. Much better than OEM

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Added some rear sway bar drop brackets last week... will be doing the sway bar rubber later on.

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Front hood struts replaced. This was becoming a safety issue. Couple of times, my rugby head came out second. Always feel a lump on my throat when I remove an original toyota part with all the japanesse writing. Well, newer stuff is better.

Part can be found on amazon: $23.02 with clipped coupon
Amazon product ASIN B01MSK63VO

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Tinted the windows (with exception of the FR driver and FR passenger sides) - For some privacy and heat control. My bordie collie friend will be thrilled. Ready for the summer.

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@bushdoctor how is the fit of the 35 tires on the OEM wheels ? I was told it is too narrow?
Dino the stock rims 8" wide and are just fine for larger tires. I'm running 37 1250 16 and they work great. I have aired down as low as 8 PSI and never popped a bead. There are also a very strong wheel I've never heard of anyone breaking her bending one
 

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