Burning major oil warming up / Choke on to stay on / not staying on at stops (1 Viewer)

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check out the videos and if you need to see something specific let me know
 
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I had to keep the choke on when my fuel pump diaphragm was failing. I chased all kinds of carb theories before getting a new fuel pump from City Racer.


maybe I just nee a new fuel pump..I mean that could be the simple answer..

aim in CA does any auto store carry?
 
Are you close Georg at Valley Hybrids in Stockton? He'd have an OEM fuel pump. I'm pretty sure he's one of the top cruiser mechanics in the country. It would probably take him 5 minutes to diagnose what's wrong. I'd ask him to have a look at your rigs wiring while your there.
 
Are you confusing the engine working harder to increase in rpm?

If the engine is choked and it’s struggling to run because of it being overly rich then u push the choke in it evens out and runs high rpm

You need to adjust the carb

It doesn’t look like your pushing it in all the way either

Can it go further ?

If not ... that’s the issue ... it’s not kicking down from fast idle

My 2c


Btw I take it your tach is not working ... that high of an rpm is bad ... however it didn’t seem to move :)
 
I'm new to these but the basics apply, and you should try to better isolate the issues. It all comes down the correct amount of air, fuel and spark. Don't chase / mix efforts on these simultaneously as it will make it hard to know what the issue is. Please do NOTn start guess and throwing parts at it.

Some question to help figure out what is going on;

1) did this happen all of a sudden or gradually getting worse? As it been like this since you've had the truck?
2) will it start without the choke?
3) when you first start it does it run OK and then get worse or is it unhappy from first turn of the key?

Dizzy's good eyes nailed one potential issue - It does look like your silver intake manifold has a crack which could be letting in un-metered (aka false air that enters the engine after the air/fuel has been mixed by the carb).

The fuel pump does not jump out to me as the issue. The black smoke suggests too rich of a mixture - too much fuel rather than not enough. As others have suggested an incorrect carb set up is likely the best place to start.

EDIT - from watching the video it appears your idle is set high and when you pull the choke out you are now running way too rich so the RPM is dropping because the air/fuel mixture is way too off. If the primary issue is the RPMs are too high then focus on lowering them via the adjustment on the carb to do that.
 
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Idle solenoid for carb hooked up to keyed 12 volt?
In your above picture, from front, I did not see the wire hooked up.
That not hooked up or working properly could cause some of your issues, like not idling.
 
Can't generally see a vacuum leak just by looking - you need to let it idle and spray carb cleaner, or water, or something everywhere you could have a vacuum leak (around the headers/manifold ears at the head; the dissy vacuum module; the carb base; the brake booster, everywhere that has a vacuum port; etc.)

Can't see much with your air cleaner in place.

Looks like a vacuum advance distributer - where does the dissy vacuum line originate?

Do you see any vacuum ports that are not plugged or have a line to them?
 
Will report back with better video - there y’all can point to the spots ur referring...

Thank you thank you
 
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Are you confusing the engine working harder to increase in rpm?

If the engine is choked and it’s struggling to run because of it being overly rich then u push the choke in it evens out and runs high rpm

You need to adjust the carb

It doesn’t look like your pushing it in all the way either

Can it go further ?

If not ... that’s the issue ... it’s not kicking down from fast idle

My 2c


Btw I take it your tach is not working ... that high of an rpm is bad ... however it didn’t seem to move :)

Wasn’t pushing it in all the way so I could show y’all how it sounds all the way out vs a little pushed in. IF I HAD - in the video pushed it all the way in the engine sputters off ... who’d us my a portion of issue or THE issue or new fuel pump
 
What Dizzy said, looks like a crack in the manifold=vacuum leak. You can tune and replace parts to your hearts content and not solve the “problem” if that crack is all the way through.

Idle it down as low as you can without it stalling and spray some carb cleaner on and around that crack, if the idle increases you’ll know you have a leak and need to source a manifold.


You appear to have a cracked intake manifold at cylinder number one?
 
The truck is not smogged. It is a mid 70s 2F engine, with a SOR non-US Toyota vac advance dissy and non-US 77-78 carb. There is only one vac outlet fitting on the carb, and it appears to be connected to the dissy.
 

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